Topic: Your opinion ..how does a frame kit affect the bikes value?

[seanbarney41]

yup

[Davez134]

Hey, all I know is after 3000 miles ridden hard with a hopped up motor: My frame is straight, bike feels great in corners, looks great, and took me only a few hours to fix a stupid "oops" on a leaky base gasket. But, I still agree that if you are putting a lot of $$ into an early bike for the purposes of making money or selling don't do it. (Not like you would have to pull the motor anyways after selling)

[754]

 One thing that should be considered is.. how hard is it to reverse it after the frame gets cut...

[Retro Rocket]

One thing that should be considered is.. how hard is it to reverse it after the frame gets cut...

Yours would be a piece of cake to reverse if needed...

[edwardmorris]

I haven't checked in a while, but I don't think Gordon's kit costs $200 (maybe close to that including welding costs?). Like Cal pointed out, I had a buyer head over heels for my K2 but almost cried when I told him that I HAD TO install the kit because not only did the PO chop up the frame, he also threw away the tubing . Thankfully I haven't had to do any engine rework after 1000+ city/twisty/highway riding mix. No issues with handling or any frame bending etc. Gordon's kit installs and blends away almost seamlessly. The purists will not want the kit, but riders intending to log miles and do maintenance will appreciate it. When I was working on the K2, there was another build progressing alongside for a nice sandcast, everything was left intact, and after a few miles it developed that dreaded puck leak. No other option besides pulling the engine to fix it. For a sandcast, that would be totally worth it, but seeing that happen made the decision easy for my K3. The K3's frame was intact, but I did cut it and installed Gordon's kit just for that worst case scenario of having to redo something. Thankfully, the K2 hasn't needed it yet, and hopefully the K3 never will. Just in case either of them do, at least I know the kit will simplify the repair.

[PeWe]

About Gordons kit. There is same design sold here for 160 + shipping
http://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/chassis-products-honda-cb750-sohc-1969-1978-andrews-motorsports-custom-frame-tube-connectors/

[Don R]

On my K0 Sandcast, never. On my K0 hot rod absolutely! The hot rod has the wrong engine and was hacked by a PO already. I cut up a wrecked frame and put it back with a gordons kit. I made thick splices for the angles, sanded the mating side to match the frame members and tapped them so it didn't need nuts. they snuggle right in there. I'd say it is as strong as a stock one.

[PeWe]

I was also against cutting the frame for a few years ago. "Never cut my frame and destroy it...." I changed my mind and have had good use of it and will in the future. I have not noticed any weakness in frame.
I'll never sell my bike anyway when I want to continue to use it and remember the long history we have together. I'll never get the money back invested in it either.
I have to downgrade the engine, new sleeves and 736 pistons, not ported head with std valves, original cam and std carbs....in with std crank w rods which I upgrade this winter....std bar with electrical wirings routed inside.....
The rims are not OEM either, I have replaced them twice to D.I.D in std sizes

It is a std CB750 in OEM shape looking like new that is worth most. I see that eBay.co.uk have CB750's they want 10.000-20.000 pounds for (14.000 - 28.000 USD)
CB750K2, K6 in really good OEM shape are sometimes for sale here 8000-10.000 USD. A cut frame is probably not accepted by the OEM guys.

I get more and more parts over that can be used on another CB750. I need a cheap I can restore in OEM shape.
 I have NOS front- rear fenders and seat in boxes waiting to be used. Bought when still available

[calj737]

If we are digressing to strength considerations, nearly every modern motorcycle uses a bolted on subframe. If you think that a mechanical connection is insufficient or inferior, then you know very little about structural strengths. Franks kit, Gordons kit, or any variation, will not diminish the strength of the frame in any measurable way. Period. And subframes take a lot more stress than 2 rails along a backbone.

You are welcome to believe as you wish, but you should dismiss your argument for not installing a frame kit based upon strength issues.

[edwardmorris]

+1.

IINM, Gordon's design is based on a large engine Kawi.

[mystic_1]

I think Gordon's kit is the cream of the crop when it comes to these things.  It was carefully designed and thought out, probably with strength and rigidity in mind.


As to the general topic of bolted connections and their strength compared to welded connections, that's going to come down to design.  For instance:



mystic_1

[RRRToolSolutions]

Guys, I personally would not modify the frame if I were looking at this bike as an investment for current/future value. I would concentrate on getting it built/restored and leaving it alone.

If however he is going to ride it, maintain it, and plans to keep it forever - I would....well you know.

Now as to which one, Frank and I get along. I recognize and respect that his design solves the same problem mine does, just in different ways. Not everyone has access to or is a welder. Frank's external clamps work around the tubing circumference. Mine weld inside the tubing and are all but invisible once installed - a critical attribute that I had to have in my K4 build. I also wanted to use my stock ignition switch and did not want any of this to be seen unless the tank was fully removed.

My solution came to me in my own garage after my sealing pucks started leaking and I got worried that I would soon grenade my engine once the porting and cam were added. Sitting in front of me were my 2000 ZRX1100 and 2003 1500 Nomad - two bikes much heavier and longer tubing than my Honda's frame rails. They both utilized 1/2 clam shell bolt-in frame rails on their entire right sides for engine removal. My kits took their inspiration from those two Kawasaki's frames.

Best Regards, Gordon/RTS

http://www.rrrtoolsolutions.com/index.php

[disco]

Hi Guys,

Firstly I agree with Mystic that Gordon's kit is a 'top shelf' bit of kit. It's so good that it appears to be 'factory'.

I would regard a well thought out & well installed frame kit to be a bit like a Resto-mod. For me it adds value & practicality.

I guess it's down to individual choice.....would I choose an original '69 Mustang that looks good but handles #$%*e or one that has sensible mods underneath that make it great to own/drive? Give me the Resto-modded Mustang any day!

here's one of my K2 project bikes (Black Betty) with Gordon's frame kit.

[Stev-o]

As to the general topic of bolted connections and their strength compared to welded connections, that's going to come down to design.  For instance:

This is obviously a bad frame kit.  Good news is Bobco has parts for me so I can put a proper frame kit on it.