Topic: I'm as mad as hell, and I'm not going to take it anymore!

[CB750F2]

Terry, I have been thinking about your flooding problem. A couple of weeks ago I decided to check out the float levels using an external clear plastic tubing and an adaptor screwed into the drain plug hole. This procedure is described on pages 59-60 of the Clymer manual. I departed from the Clymer procedure by making my own adaptor. I installed the gauge on NO.4 carb and turned on the fuel. The fuel level rose very quickly to a point where it poured out of the air box. Flooding stopped when I removed the gauge and replaced the drain plug. This is what I reckon happened. My adaptor was sealing off the vent pipe to atmosphere causing the chamber above the fuel level to pressurise and thus holding down the floats causing flooding. I have mentioned this experience of mine because you mentioned that you had a blocked drain pipe. The blocked drain pipe and the disconnected spark plug lead meant that you did not have much chance of getting the bike to run properly. Regards, Pat from Nth Qld.

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Pat, thanks for that mate, it was the blocked vent pipe that caused the flooding, I stuck my air nozzle in there and blasted it out and have had no problems since.

Re: the paint, I chemically stripped the cases (I wouldn't let anyone near my engine cases with a bead blaster, too many oilways for glass neads to hide in) and "etch" primed them, the etch primer provides a "key" for the paint (VHT engine enamel) to stick to alloy, otherwise it will just flake off with time.

The trouble is that I'd added some "Liquid Engineering Fuel Set" to the fuel tank to remove some water, and I believe that's what did the damage I had a look again last night and with the airbox back in place it's not that noticeable, but when I do strip it down again, I'll get my cases powdercoated. Cheers, Terry.

[Spear]

Thanks Terry. Here I go - I'm gonna try and put a pic in this message.
Hey I think it worked. Have a look at this for a 750/4. And don't you think it flies?

[Terry in Australia]

G'Day Steve, speaking of "Beasts", have a look at this thing. It was given to me for free a few years ago, it's a Suzuki GS1000 based dragster, good for 140+ BHP at the rear wheel and would propel any lunatic game enough to ride it down the quarter mile in 9.7 seconds! What do you think I did with it? Why, I fitted the engine in a road bike frame of course, woohooooooooooooooooo!
Cheers, Terry.

[Hop on a Honda]

Terry.
Dear Amigo

I can't stop laughing to read the whole string.
Dave where the roads are better
Newcastle NSW Australia.
PS Kathy & I are off to Gosford where the roads have bends in them.
Got to get all the SOHC freaks together soon and discuss the differences betweeb VB & New.

[Spear]

Hey Dave (or should I say 'Linen?). Where you been hiding lately, and did you ever get that seat re-covered? Steve P.
PS Terry - I cleaned up that washed out drag machine you presented. How's that look?

[kghost]

Just a thought,
 When I sit down to monkey with my carbs, and I seem to have a S&M fasination in messing with carbs I use a set of old float bowls which I modified by wacking the overflow tubes off. Hook up clear plastic tubing to the bottom and presto instantly tells you the level of the fuel in the bowl.

[Sandcast 2356]

This whole float tuning bowl thing interests me, can you post any pics? I'm assuming you hold the tube facing up and see what level it sits at? Makes sense good idea.

[kghost]

Yes, I can send a picture. Its pretty simple. I had an old set of bowls that where junky, like corroded and such. I just took my dremel tool and cut off the brass stand pipe. Then put a clear piece of tubing on the bottom of the bowl where the overflow tubing would normally be.

 Also make a gas container out of a one gallon metal can. Mine was an old marvel mystery can but any one gallon metal can would work (acetone, MEK container etc.) Used an old petcock equally junky as the carb bowls. The stand pipe on the petcock was all corroded so I cut it off. Drilled three holes in the bottom of the metal can (below the top hole). The center hole for fuel to pass and the other two for the mounting screws. I then used a socket on a long extension to put the nuts on the petcock mounting screws. I used a peice of tape around the nuts to hold them in the socket while I got them started on the screws. Now I have a little can to hang on the bars to sync. the carbs. Complete with two outlets and an off position.

[kghost]

Pictures

[kghost]

Gas can

[heffay]

kghost... please tell me the composer of your signature.  great words.   

[kghost]

Robert Service.
Wonderful poet writes about Alaska/Yukon and the gold rush.
See "The cremation of Sam McGee"

One of my favorites.....

Hark to the ewe that bore him,
What has muddied the strain
Never his brothers before him
Showed a hint of a stain
Hark to the tups and wethers
Hark to the old gray ram
We're all white
He's black as night
And he'll never be worth a Damn

[Sandcast 2356]

Thank kghost.