Author Topic: I Need Some MORE Weber Help (Read 2151 times)

Swoop · « **on:** March 17, 2016, 08:16:21 am »

Hi there,
Trying to get the Seeley up and running on Webers and have run into a problem.
One carb wants to start...the pipes get warm from trying ...plugs are wet.
Other side not happening.....pipes are cold and plugs are dry...good spark. It ran good on reg. carbs before the change. Squirt test seems okay...a foot or so...gas in the float chamber and jets are clear.
Idle mixture set at 1 turn out.
What else should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Swoop · « **Reply #1 on:** March 17, 2016, 11:13:43 am »

I have sorted that out...now a couple of linkage issues.

BPellerine · « **Reply #2 on:** March 17, 2016, 02:33:10 pm »

Swoop · « **Reply #3 on:** March 17, 2016, 03:08:04 pm »

BTW old gators make an excellent support when working on the Webers.

BPellerine · « **Reply #4 on:** March 17, 2016, 05:56:27 pm »

looking cool ,steve!where did you get your filters?billp

scottly · « **Reply #5 on:** March 17, 2016, 06:27:44 pm »

Quote from: Swoop on March 17, 2016, 11:13:43 am

I have sorted that out...now a couple of linkage issues.

Well, what was it?

Damn, now I need to polish my fuel tank...

Swoop · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2016, 03:37:15 am »

Scottly...... I had the idle speed set too high....too much air. Once I reset that it fired right up.

Thanks Bill.....those are my design..... I made the air screens/ filters myself.

Now I have to rejig my throttle cable bracket as it is hanging up a little causing it to race. Unfortunately the weather is getting colder and I won't be able to test it again for a bit. (-10C tonight)

Steve

Swoop · « **Reply #7 on:** March 20, 2016, 08:44:52 am »

Hi Guys,
Ran into another couple of problems.
The symptom was left carb leaking....and racing to 4000 with throttle closed.

I have determined that the accelerator pump inlet valve is not closing.
Question 1...Can these be disassembled and cleaned? The little pice of metal inside does not want to come out very easily.

I have also noted on the same carb that I am only getting squirting from one side.
Question 2... What is the cleaning procedure for this circuit?

I am hoping that one of these problems is causing my high idle issue.

Thanks again for any help that you can provide.

Steve

RAZZ · « **Reply #8 on:** March 20, 2016, 09:48:32 am »

Help me rebuild some RC Webers? Or, just watch..some people just like to watch.
Hi I have being seeing these videos about DCOE Webers great info:

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/information.php?info_id=13
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=151748.msg1773071#msg1773071

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Swoop · « **Reply #9 on:** March 20, 2016, 10:45:44 am »

Yes...great videos....thanks.
Unfortunately it doesn't address my immediate problem....but I am sure they will come in useful.

So the problem I have is with what they call the spill jet.

Steve

scottly · « **Reply #10 on:** March 20, 2016, 11:29:25 am »

Hey Steve, the spill jet isn't made to come apart, although I have taken one apart before. There is a small plastic ball inside that is forced up when the pump operates, closing the intake opening at the top, while allowing some of the pump volume to "spill" out the hole in the side. To clean it, back flush it with spray carb cleaner, both from the intake and the side. The ball should be free to move. If the spill jet is not working, it will affect both sides of the carb. Look into the throat that is leaking; if there is a steady drip coming from the pump nozzle when the motor isn't running, the problem is likely with the delivery valve ball not sealing.
As far as the engine racing, check for vacuum leaks between the carb and manifold, and also make sure the starter valves are fully closed.

Swoop · « **Reply #11 on:** March 20, 2016, 12:48:27 pm »

Quote from: scottly on March 20, 2016, 11:29:25 am

Hey Steve, the spill jet isn't made to come apart, although I have taken one apart before. There is a small plastic ball inside that is forced up when the pump operates, closing the intake opening at the top, while allowing some of the pump volume to "spill" out the hole in the side. To clean it, back flush it with spray carb cleaner, both from the intake and the side. The ball should be free to move. If the spill jet is not working, it will affect both sides of the carb. Look into the throat that is leaking; if there is a steady drip coming from the pump nozzle when the motor isn't running, the problem is likely with the delivery valve ball not sealing.
As far as the engine racing, check for vacuum leaks between the carb and manifold, and also make sure the starter valves are fully closed.

Okay...I put the spill valve in the ultrasonic for an hour....if I shake it I can hear a rattle.
When I open the throttle bubbles come out of the spill valve...I assume I need a new one.
The other one...nothing comes out of the spill valve....just out of the side of the float chamber (inside)
I have new balls and weights, I believe. I will see if I can blow out or chase the galleries with a guitar string.
What are you calling starter valves?
Also...do you have a picture of the tool to remove shaft seal covers?
I could not get mine off.....and may suspect possible leak there.

Pump nozzle......the opening with 3 small holes?

Thanks

Steve

scottly · « **Reply #12 on:** March 20, 2016, 12:54:18 pm »

Do you have the Haynes book? The pump nozzle, or jet is #72. You can just see the tip forward of the choke when looking into the throat.
The start valves are #59. The starter device is assembly #47, which may interfere with the MPD manifold, preventing the carb from sealing. I don't have the assemblies on my carbs, as the start valves are held closed by springs.
I use a small screwdriver with a bent tip to remove the seal covers, but they are easily bent. Try spraying carb cleaner or WD 40 with the motor running to check for vacuum leaks.

Swoop · « **Reply #13 on:** March 20, 2016, 03:09:57 pm »

I will do some sleuthing and report.

Steve

Swoop · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2016, 03:05:33 am »

Quote from: scottly on March 20, 2016, 12:54:18 pm

Do you have the Haynes book? The pump nozzle, or jet is #72. You can just see the tip forward of the choke when looking into the throat.
The start valves are #59. The starter device is assembly #47, which may interfere with the MPD manifold, preventing the carb from sealing. I don't have the assemblies on my carbs, as the start valves are held closed by springs.
I use a small screwdriver with a bent tip to remove the seal covers, but they are easily bent. Try spraying carb cleaner or WD 40 with the motor running to check for vacuum leaks.

The seal covers that I have on main shaft thread into the body.
I am familiar with spraying the carbs to find leaks and revs go up.....not familiar with spraying carbs to reduce revs. Am I missing something?

Thanks
Steve

BPellerine · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2016, 09:53:08 am »

steve I think he is referring to the pumps when he is talking about using a small lever,take your start valves out and check there first,I had not thought of that.billp

scottly · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2016, 05:32:23 pm »

If the RPMs change either direction when spraying, it indicates a leak.
The seal covers are thin brass, and are a light press fit into the carb bodies.

Swoop · « **Reply #17 on:** March 22, 2016, 03:23:27 am »

Thanks

754 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 22, 2016, 12:18:49 pm »

Once you get past this it will be fun.. I dont think i ever had mine all the way apart, but they were set up. had a few leaks and had to clean a few jets a couple times.. I got my first set in around 1977..

Swoop · « **Reply #19 on:** March 22, 2016, 02:32:33 pm »

Yeah...sounds like my colonoscopy.....got my first set around 2000.

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Author Topic: I Need Some MORE Weber Help (Read 2151 times)

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