Topic: Ignition Static gap adjustment question

[Darkdragono]

Hello,
        I have a 76 cb550k and am in the process of setting up the timing but when i gap the points at "full open" with 0.015in(0.04mm) the back plate adjustment on 1-4 doesn't get to the point where my light flickers when i go to the f mark on 1-4, so my question is am i going past max lift of the cam where the points are closing and that's why i'm getting these results?

[Deltarider]

with 0.015in(0.04mm)

First, it should be between 0,3 - 0,4mm.
Then, make sure cam is at it heighest when you measure. BTW, what breakerpoints do you have? Original (TEC) or aftermarket like Daiichi?

[DaveBarbier]

Also, your question seems wrong. There is no 'static gap adjustment' because there is no 'dynamic gap adjustment'. It's just 'gap adjustment'. I just want to be sure you're not confusing gap with static timing.

[Darkdragono]

Thx for the replays guys but here's a pic of my clymer book where im getting this info from. its all Original (TEC)

[wowbagger]

Dino did a great video on this process:

[Darkdragono]

thx yeah i did watch the video but he never showed the feeler gauge size he only said it that's like telling somone to get them a 1/2 inch wrench blind folded at least to me i have to see it to learn it.

[wowbagger]

Set your gap to 0.03mm. The 0.04mm should not be able to slide into the gap.

[Darkdragono]

Set your gap to 0.03mm. The 0.04mm should not be able to slide into the gap.

Well with those size's the feeler gauge is so thin it flex's but in the video that does not happen so it would really be 0.12-0.16 inch or in millimeter 0.30-0.41 am i wrong to say so.

[DaveBarbier]

Thx for the replays guys but here's a pic of my clymer book where im getting this info from. its all Original (TEC)

Ah dwell, that makes sense. I always thought of those as separate things. Carry on.

[wowbagger]

Set your gap to 0.03mm. The 0.04mm should not be able to slide into the gap.

Well with those size's the feeler gauge is so thin it flex's but in the video that does not happen so it would really be 0.12-0.16 inch or in millimeter 0.30-0.41 am i wrong to say so.

Yeah, you're right. Should be .3mm.

[Darkdragono]

ok cool so i think i understand now my book is misinformed and show the wrongs size's thanks everyone for clearing that up 

[jonda500]

0.004" = 0.1mm!

0.012" = 0.3mm
0.016" = 0.4mm

I like to set mine at 16 thou - because as the points heels wear down the gaps will get smaller
John

[carnivorous chicken]

0.004" = 0.1mm!

0.012" = 0.3mm
0.016" = 0.4mm

I like to set mine at 16 thou - because as the points heels wear down the gaps will get smaller
John

Not sure how this works -- as the points wear the gap should get slightly larger, and they should wear more or less evenly unless they're installed slightly off. On 350fs, 400fs, and 550s, I set the gap closer to .3 than .4 as it is better in terms of timing.

[Deltarider]

I'm with jonda500. Over time gap will decrease.

[Darkdragono]

I made a drawing in paint for the understanding for gap wear and yes 0.16 is the way you want to set it up.

[carnivorous chicken]

Gotcha, I thought Jonda was talking about uneven wear of the surface due to misalignment, not the surface that meets the cam.

[Deltarider]

Gotcha

I don't understand  the drawing. Left breakerpoint is not shown as it sits in reality so...

[gtmdriver]

One of the best investments I ever made was in a set of go/no-go feeler gauges.



Two sizes on the same blade.

If a 0.3mm gauge will fit and a 0.4mm won't then the gap's correct.

[Darkdragono]

Gotcha

I don't understand  the drawing. Left breakerpoint is not shown as it sits in reality so...

Well my point with the drawing was not to be identical on each side so to show that the setup would have to be completely different to increase the point gap with wear.
so here's another drawing with sides that look the same but notice the contact point has to be at the top in order to increase the points gap over time with wear.

[Deltarider]

I'm sorry but the drawing still doesn't represent real live. You've got the 1+4 points depicted wrongly. Gap decreases over time on both set of points. Anyway start with opening of 0,4 mm and you'll have reserve.

[DaveBarbier]

I'm sorry but the drawing still doesn't represent real live. You've got the 1+4 points depicted wrongly. Gap decreases over time on both set of points. Anyway start with opening of 0,4 mm and you'll have reserve.

He's not trying to show how points work. Above it was said that the points decrease over time then other members refuted saying that it would increase over time. He just drew it up showing if it was to decrease or increase over time how it would have to be positioned.

[tennesseebreeze]

Hello,
        I have a 76 cb550k and am in the process of setting up the timing but when i gap the points at "full open" with 0.015in(0.04mm) the back plate adjustment on 1-4 doesn't get to the point where my light flickers when i go to the f mark on 1-4, so my question is am i going past max lift of the cam where the points are closing and that's why i'm getting these results?

While setting my ignition timing plate with a 12v light, the way the Honda shop manual said; I also did not see the light go out or flicker. I'm curious what that means for the timing and if I we should consider it a failed adjustment.

[Deltarider]

He's not trying to show how points work. Above it was said that the points decrease over time then other members refuted saying that it would increase over time. He just drew it up showing if it was to decrease or increase over time how it would have to be positioned.

Pardon me, I know what it was about. It was about whether the pointsgap increases or decreases when the fiber part wears. Well, as well for 1+4 as for 2+3 breakerpoints gap decreases. In his picture he puts it's increase for the one set and decrease for the other. That's just not correct.

While setting my ignition timing plate with a 12v light, the way the Honda shop manual said; I also did not see the light go out or flicker. I'm curious what that means for the timing and if I we should consider it a failed adjustment.

1. Is ignition key switched on?
2. Is emergency switch in the 'run' position?
3. If 1 and 2 are answered with yes, does light come on when you open the breakerpoints with your fingers?
4. If yes on 3, it's not adjusted rightly yet. If the light still does not come on, it indicates there's no current.

[tennesseebreeze]

I was saying that the light does not go OFF when I turn the plate left and right. It remains on. So there is no adjustment at which the light comes on, because it's always on.

[Deltarider]

You should start with setting the breakerpoints gap. Just rotate the crank (you can use the kickstarter for this) until gap is at it's widest. Forget about marks and lights in this stage. Set the gap between 0,3 and 0,4mm. Then and only then it makes sense to set the timing. You should start with 1+4. Now turn crank until F 1,4 (yellow mark in the pic) is in line with the mark. Look for the right timing by slowly moving the base plate until light comes on (or flickers) at F 1+4. After that you can adjust 2+3. First the pointsgap by adjusting the breakerpoint when it is open at it's widest. Again, forget about marks and lights in this stage. After that and only then it makes sense to set the timing of 2+3. Now turn crank until F 2,3 is in line with the mark. Look for the right timing by slowly adjusting the 2+3 plate until light comes on (or flickers) at F 2+3.
I don't know how experienced you are, but if you feel you're lost completely, you could start by first bringing both sets breakerpoints and the 2+3 plate in the middle of their adjusting range and start from there. It helps us when you attach pics.