Topic: Fuse box

[Canadian]

Here I am, yet again with a question regarding fuses.

In short:
°Main fuse keeps on blowing, nothing changed to the bike, been driving like this for a year
°Checked the wiring, no bad ground, no wire touching another one
°Battery doesn't really charge anymore, only reads max of 13 volts when running
°When she's cold I can drive up to 10 minutes, seems something is getting too hot & fuse blows
°Tried a new regulator , keeps blowing

Any tricks/ideas what might cause this ? No clue anymore , maybe rectifire.. ?

Thanks guys,
Wannes (Belgium, Europe)

[calj737]

The actual fuse block is likely very corroded on the backside where the clips pass through it. Also, the main plug from the alternator should be maintenances and cleaned for optimum results.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Take a look at your ignition switch.

[Canadian]

Sorry forgot to mention.

the box was corroded & changed it to modern fusebox, ALL works fine

What makes you think of the ignition switch ?

Thx!

[calj737]

the box was corroded & changed it to modern fusebox, ALL works fine

In short:
°Main fuse keeps on blowing, nothing changed to the bike, been driving like this for a year
°When she's cold I can drive up to 10 minutes, seems something is getting too hot & fuse blows
°Tried a new regulator , keeps blowing

Not to be prickly, but these 2 statements are in stark contrast to each other. Either your fuses are working well or they aren't. I understand you did upgrade your fuse block so you believe you have ruled that out as a culprit, but you still need to examine it for a short or loose connection.

As for the ignition switch being a culprit, is the key switch stock or aftermarket? Many aftermarket units are not suitable for the amperage running through them (cheap components) and they literally go bad across the switch contacts. This may be your problem and you should carefully examine the switch, its backside, and the wiring to it.

[Canadian]

You are contract these are in contrast to each other. Indeed I've changed this to a modern one with modern fuses. No short or loose connection here.

It is an aftermarket ignition switch. But this one goes for 1 year now so don't understand why all of a sudden it would go ... anyway I'll check

Thanks!

[calj737]

It is an aftermarket ignition switch. But this one goes for 1 year now so don't understand why all of a sudden it would go ... anyway I'll check

That is very common unfortunately. Over time, the accumulated heat causes failure. Works one day, then enough load occurs and Blammo!

If you discover the switch is bad, there are 2 good options: do buy a stock unit as a replacement and/or use a relay to reduce the power at the switch. Member Hondaman sells a relay for this exact scenario (stock or aftermarket).

[Canadian]

Hi there,

Thanks for replying. I must say i'm good at welding, mocking up stuff, making fibre seat etc but electronics is my worst nightmare.

I do have a multimeter. How do I read if this one is broken or not ? Have 3 stands (off / on / on  + lights).

When I start driving I can do about 10mins, then all of a sudden the fuse blows. The battery only reading max 13.2 volts or so worries me as well (when revving at 6000rpm).

Ofcoure something's heated too much & then I have to wait 30mins to pop another fuse in , to drive home...

Thanks again guys.

[calj737]

Simply use your eyes to start with. Locate the plastic connector from the switch to the harness (might be slightly beneath your tank, and above the coils). Disconnect it and unscrew the switch from its housing. Is the plug in tact or evidence of melting?

Using your meter, check the resistance level between the RED/BLK with the key ON. Do the same on the harness side. Also, mentioned earlier, check the large 8-pin plastic connector on the left side of your bike, near the shift lever (this comes from the stator/alternator and heads to the electric panel) for any corrosion. You should check the Ohms of the Y/Y/Y, Wht/Grn wires. (Theres 3 Yellows to check between, a single WHITE and a single GREEN). You're searching for too high an Ohm reading which is an indication of resistance, causing undue heat to build.

You mentioned only getting 13.2 charging. Normally, that might be an issue, but it could also mean that your battery is not requiring more. This could be a case of a very healthy charging system, or it could mean that your Regulator is not sensing properly. But until you solve the fuses blowing, you will need to set that aside.

[Canadian]

Sound a bit Chinese but i'll manage, good explanation thx!

 I'll have a look tonight.

I'll find the 8pin plastic connector. Here I need to check the Ohms on Yellow Yellow Yellow and th White Green whires?

So put my meter on the yellow and each time check with white & green correct? What is 'too high' ?

Suppose my ignition (key) has to be ON ?

Brgds
Wannes

[calj737]

you ant to check between the Y/Y to each other. The White to green. This is an indication of stator health.

Yes, when check resistance of the key switch, key to ON position for resistance between R/BLK.

[Canadian]

Think i found it!

Measured My rectifier and :

Black of multimeter on green of rectifier
To 3 yellows: ALL around 0.5v , perfect

Black of multimeter on red of rectifier
Tob3 yellows: nothing! Nothing AT ALL

The rectifier was mounted in My seat so not much cooling.

Will Search a New one & advise outcome

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

The ignition switch carries an awful lot of current! Great place for a loss.

Rectifier rectifies the AC current to DC by eliminating one of the alternating legs thus DC. Not sure about your test?

[Canadian]

Multimeter was broken !

Rectifier was good.. Anyway Changed regulator (was also good) en rectifier with New ones, that Come Off a running bike here. MeSured with a good multimeter & they are ok.

Ignition on hit My starter, Goes over a couple of times, fuse blows. First time this happens.

Pop another one in, starts & let it turn idle for 5mins, ALL ok. Measured volts on battery max 13.5 V with almost Full Throthle.

Want to drive, 200 meters and BAMMMM, done, again.

Immediately checked & tried to touch the rectifier, Can bearely touch it...


So Moving On.... Ignition coils shortage or something ? NO wire is hitting another one, ALL already checked!

Thx in advance!

Wannes

[Canadian]

Oh & changed the ignition lock to the original one

[madmtnmotors]

Takes me about two weeks to clean every switch and connector in the harness. As mentioned, focus on the high amp connectors first:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494

[madmtnmotors]

Don't forget the alternator connectors under the front sprocket cover. Those connections tend to suffer the most...

[Canadian]

Checked alternator connector, clean & good connection.

Pls advise on the Next step, dumb regarding electronic etc !

Thx

[madmtnmotors]

Checked alternator connector, clean & good connection.

Pls advise on the Next step, dumb regarding electronic etc !

Thx

Both sets of alternator connections? There is one multi-connector block that is above the rear of the engine, and then there are five individual bullet connectors tucked in behind the transmission cover underneath the front sprocket cover. Those five individual bullet connectors (3-yellow, 1-green, 1-white) tend to be the connectors that suffer the most...

[Canadian]

2 rectifiers are now broken, after this fuse blew

Next step? Measuring ohms On...?

[Canadian]

Anyone ?

[madmtnmotors]

2 rectifiers are now broken

And what leads you to this conclusion?

After this fuse blew

Which fuse?

Next step? Measuring ohms On...?

Everything.

[Canadian]

Measured the rectifiers ? The ohms were good First, now not any longer


The Main fuse

Everything... Pls specify on how to read/analyse My spools etc

[madmtnmotors]

Measured the rectifiers ? The ohms were good First, now not any longer


The Main fuse

The rectifier is a set of diodes. Current can only flow one direction through the rectifier. Did you check voltage both directions? Your ohmmeter has to push a small amount of voltage (from the battery inside the meter) in order to measure ohms. You will also get false ohm readings if your meter battery is dead.

Everything... Pls specify on how to read/analyse My spools etc

Check my signature for link(s) to charging system diagnosis, as well as electrical system troubleshooting:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137351.msg1549191.html#msg1549191
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,148188.msg1688494.html#msg1688494
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,139544.msg1579364.html#msg1579364
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,1012.msg8345.html#msg8345

[Canadian]

Thanks for above,

This is pretty much My problem:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19916

Can someone tell me how to measure my alternator rotor , or how to dismount it?

Sorry for my English my mothertongue is Dutch.

The link i gave Seems 200% my problem. Mine does weird stuff around 4000rpm AS Well !