Topic: My 1977 CB550F project

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 Honda CB550F project update
 The front forks have been rebuilt, new fork seals, dust caps, Progressive fork springs, Tarozzi fork brace and 7W synthetic fork oil have been installed. New head light brackets have been installed. Rear foot pegs removed. Dual drilled and resurfaced front disk brakes with rebuilt calipers installed. When rebuilding the brake calipers be sure to put some brake fluid on the piston, piston seal and the cylinder for lubrication.

I fabricated and installed brackets to keep brake lines and the speedometer cable from coming in contact with the wheel. I used the stock fender brace as a template for a rough brake line caliper bracket cardboard template, after several modified cardboard templates I traced the final template to sheet aluminum, rough cut two brackets with a jig saw, drilled the mounting holes bolted both brackets together and shaped them with a grinder and a metal file.

I milled 3mm off the lower caliper bracket mount to provide proper alignment of the second caliper and disk rotor. I also had to bevel the rib on the bottom fork leg to allow room for the slightly flared out caliper bracket pivot point, you can see this in the picture of the bottom fork legs, on the side that had the original disk this rib is beveled on the other side the rib is straight.

I made and installed new custom fit metal brake lines to connect the brake calipers to the braided stainless steel brake lines. I modified the speedometer drive plate to fit inside the second disk rotor. I swapped the fork legs from left to right so I could locate the brake calipers behind the forks instead of in front of the forks.

After putting 87 miles on the bike the dual front disk brakes and front suspension feel good. Braking feels better than the stock single disk, but could be improved upon with better calipers and larger brake pads.

Anyone know of better after market calipers that would fit the stock forks?

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

We have put 108 miles on the bike as of 5-29-2016 and the dual disk brakes & front suspension feel good

The improved braking is worth the effort!

We no longer have a soft mushy front suspension and it's not a stiff harsh suspension either

When I was balancing the front wheel I noticed the rim needs to be trued a little in one area, so I need to make a bracket to attach my dial gauge so I can correct this.

Also I would like to find another clutch lever handle that's a little longer than the stock one and hopefully match the one on the new master cylinder

Next a new seat, I want to make the seat, but my son wants to buy one so I'll let him buy it that way he can get what he want's

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Has anyone here ever chamfered the rear brake shoes, if so any pics or advice on doing this would be appreciated.

Thanks ... Jesse

[Deltarider]

Shoes may contain asbestos. Don't know how dangerous that is.

[jonda500]

Has anyone here ever chamfered the rear brake shoes, if so any pics or advice on doing this would be appreciated.

Thanks ... Jesse

Why would you want to chamfer the rear shoes? This is often done to the front brake pads to try and stop them from squealing - sometimes it helps...
John

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Has anyone here ever chamfered the rear brake shoes, if so any pics or advice on doing this would be appreciated.

Thanks ... Jesse

Why would you want to chamfer the rear shoes? This is often done to the front brake pads to try and stop them from squealing - sometimes it helps...
John

I read some where it could help keep the rear brakes from locking up

[calj737]

I read some where it could help keep the rear brakes from locking up

I've never heard that. Interesting notion. I wonder what the premise for that is? Chamfering the leading edge would only prevent chatter (in my opinion) of the shoe when it first contacts the drum. If you can recall what/why I would be interested to hear it. 

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Saturday night out, putting some miles on the new disc brakes and playing some Blues music at a blues Jam
The brakes are feeling real good.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I read some where it could help keep the rear brakes from locking up

I've never heard that. Interesting notion. I wonder what the premise for that is? Chamfering the leading edge would only prevent chatter (in my opinion) of the shoe when it first contacts the drum. If you can recall what/why I would be interested to hear it. 

I just did some quick searching,but could not find anything, I'll do some more searching tomorrow.
Also I was reading about water grooving brake shoes, EBC makes shoes with water grooving and chamfered ends.

[Bankerdanny]

I have ridden both my 550's through some very heavy rain storms and it was the front disk that was the problem, not the rear drum. If it weren't for the drum I wouldn't have had hardly any braking power.

Chatter has never been a problem and I have ridden in lots of stop and go traffic and on twisties requiring frequent braking. I would not spend extra money on grooved shoes nor spend personal time chamfering stock ones.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I have ridden both my 550's through some very heavy rain storms and it was the front disk that was the problem, not the rear drum. If it weren't for the drum I wouldn't have had hardly any braking power.

Chatter has never been a problem and I have ridden in lots of stop and go traffic and on twisties requiring frequent braking. I would not spend extra money on grooved shoes nor spend personal time chamfering stock ones.

Yeah I know about internet quotes, I always look for multiple sources before accepting any info whether on the internet or a person, I learned that the hard way a long time ago.

Have not been in any heavy rain with it yet, but the drilled dual disk faired well in light rain, just a little fading when first applied then they worked satisfactorily.
I have been checking the disc's after braking and they seem to be running cooler than the stock single non drilled disk.

[Deltarider]

Oh, and when you think WD-40 is fine for cleaning the front fender, think again. Day before yesterday much to my surprise I had no front brake when I started out. Luckily I was still in town. Stopped and discovered the disc was still dripping wet from the WD-40 I had sprayed the day before. Phfeww, could have killed me. Then I remembered the lesson taught in my advanced training class to always check a few things before you start riding.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Oh, and when you think WD-40 is fine for cleaning the front fender, think again. Day before yesterday much to my surprise I had no front brake when I started out. Luckily I was still in town. Stopped and discovered the disc was still dripping wet from the WD-40 I had sprayed the day before. Phfeww, could have killed me. Then I remembered the lesson taught in my advanced training class to always check a few things before you start riding.

What front fender Can't say I ever sprayed WD40 on metal parts to clean them. Rubbing alcohol makes a pretty good cleaner for removing grit and grime.

Mine & my son's 1977 CB550F after getting back home from the Rusty Nail

http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jms23185/library/Motorcycles%20I%20owned

[Deltarider]

WD-40 is great stuff. You can clean your bike with it. Wonderful to clean the drivechain. Lamp oil (kerosene) is also fine to clean the chain. What I admire most in WD-40 is that it is thinner than water. That's quite an achievement. In marine environment when bolts and nuts are corroded by seawater, WD-40 penetrates. It smells nice too. The last drips of every can I rub in my hair.
Oh... and spray it on the disk brake and it will never sqeal again (nor will you).

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I never tried WD40 on my hair, I bet the comb glides through your hair very easily

As far as WD40 on your disk brake lessons learned the hard way you never forget ... if you survive

Take Care ... Jesse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Lubricated the tach, speedo, clutch cables & chain - greased swing arm and adjusted drive chain - adjusted headlight.
I checked all nuts & bolts on handlebars, triple tree, calipers, disc rotor, brake lines, front & rear suspension, foot pegs and synced the carbs.
I replaced M8x1.25x75mm Steering Stem pinch bolt because I couldn't torque it to the required setting. I pulled #1 & #4 plugs, they looked good, a greyish tan color. we have 265 miles on the dual disc & new brake pads. The brakes feel much better than the stock single disk. The bike is running strong and feels great. Tomorrow I turn it over to Shelby for the Summer & Fall. We have yet to get more than 35 mpg, but that's what happens when you tach it up most of the time. It's a great handling bike for around town and short trips off the interstate.

I think I need to find a CB750 project bike.
Bottom pic my old chopped 74 CB750 with an 836 big bore kit & a RC Engineering cam.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

This is weird, everything was working fine, now all of a sudden
1. The headlight stopped working (bulb is good), but all the other lights work - all fuses are good
2. The electric starter stopped working, but I can kick start it
3. When I press the starter button it flashes on the headlight

This is going to take me a while to figure out

I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!

[calj737]

The headlight is "disconnected" when the electric START button is depressed. So start there. the fact that the headlight is now functioning in "reverse" (Off until START, then only ON while depressing) tells me they are linked.

Did you tinker with the Clutch Safety switch the lefthand control? Pull your clutch in and retest the start button.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Yea I just finished removing the starter switch and that is where the problem is, the printed circuit board which provides a double throw single contact has crumbled preventing the starter and headlight from working

The never ending challenge of restoring and maintaining a vintage motorcycle
Found a new replacement only $84 I think I can fix this problem without spending about $90+ I would like to keep it original, but at that price it's not gonna happen unless I can find a SPDT push switch that will fit inside the handlebar unit and I know where to start looking http://www.mpja.com/

yellow/red wire = power to the starter relay
black/red wire = power to the headlight
black wire is power source

I also discovered a faulty factory electrical connection in the charging system wiring, I soldered the wire to the connector

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

In the meantime I discovered something under the rear of the seat.

I had over looked because I am used to seeing it behind a side cover or in the battery compartment?

I don't know what the tiny Allen wrench is for at this time, the only thing missing is the spark plug socket

[Deltarider]

I don't know what the tiny Allen wrench is for at this time

Maybe PO has changed the 16 crossheads that hold the floatbowls for much handier allen bolts.

the only thing missing is the spark plug socket

see if you can find one, it's the best tool in the set and I wouldn't trade it for any other.

[Bankerdanny]

The spark plug socket is the most useful tool in the bunch with the pin spanner second.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I had a spark plug socket from my old CB500, but I found a better one than the one that came in the Honda tool kit

It's a Motion Pro thin wall 18mm socket 08-0175 about $20 but worth it.
Socket can be driven with various tools including the Motion Pro spark plug ratchet wrench, 3/8 in. ratchet, 13/16 in. wrench, tool kit bar, or a Phillips screw driver placed through the 8.5 mm hole at the top of the socket. Socket has 23.8mm outside diameter and the total length is 110mm.

[jonda500]

There were originally 3 screwdriver shanks..
John

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

There were originally 3 screwdriver shanks..
John

I believe you are right there was a larger Philips head shank