Topic: My 1977 CB550F project

[Deltarider]

Ha, approved! I want one.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I found a nice source for replica replacement handlebar controls at 4into1 $45 for the kill switch/starter control, better than $85 to $100

http://4into1.com/search.php?search_query=starter+switch&Search=

But I am still looking for just a replacement switch

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Cafe seat for our 1977 CB550F, it will probably be this Fall or Winter or maybe sooner before we make modifications on the bike to accept this seat or modify the stock seat that is the?

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Well the cafe seat is on it's way back it's a little too small for what we want to do so Shelby has stripped the stock seat down to the seat pan and we're thinking about how we want to go about modifying it.

We will remove the chrome hand rail, possibly shorten the seat cushion about 6 or 8 inches, incorporate the tail light into the back of the seat pan and mount the signal lights on the frame or each side of the rear part of the seat pan. These are just some thoughts

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 CB550F Rear Frame & Seat Mod finally started
Rear lights and fender removed.
Frame cut and seat loop temporarily in place to check fit.
Next we need to do some grinding and welding to permanently attach the seat loop and brackets for the lights, tag & seat.
Then we need to make the seat and rewire all the lights.

Then we need a set of Keihin CR racing carbs ($1200) and a complete performance exhaust system ($500) Only if I win the Lottery you gotta dream, it doesn't cost anything to dream.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Oh yea, we replaced the uni foam filters with screened velocity stacks, bike was running a little lean so we replaced the #42 pilots with #45 and replaced the #105 mains with #110 mains. Now the bike is running a little rich, what we need are some 107.5 push in mains, but they don't seem to exist.

Does anyone know where I can find some 107.5 push in main jets for these carbs?

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

With the Uni foam filters bike was running good at WOT
Air screw at 3 turns out
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little lean at WOT 5th gear not pulling very strong above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 turns out
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little rich at WOT, 5th gear pulls stronger above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 1/8 turns out
Pilot jets #45 - (idle is a little hard to set, may go back to #42 pilot jets)
Main jets #110
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I read bits and pieces of your CB550 project, interesting.  I plan on welding some sheet metal on our seat hoop also.

You are right about the poor quality steel used on these bikes, I was amazed at how easily it was to cut through the frame with a hand powered hack saw.

I would still like to find some 107.5 press in main jets, odd that they made 107.5 screw in main jets for the later model carbs on the 1977 CB550K, but not for the earlier carbs with press in mains like our 1977 CB550F.

I am also working on a replacement starter switch to fit in the stock control unit, I hate to spend $50 to a $100 for a new throttle control, starter/kill switch unit when all that is needed is a $5 push button SPDT switch or a SPST momentary switch for the starter connected to a SPDT solenoid relay switch.

If you ever run across any 107.5 press in main jets let me know, Thanks ... Jesse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Thanks, but you need to re-jet (see my comment about +3 turns). And set your screws back into the stock baseline and try all your plug chops again. Use fresh, clean plugs.

"You are getting no benefit past 2-2.5 turns. Your jetting is wrong if you're out that far."
I agree, I am going to put the #42 pilot jets back in and turn the air screws into 2.5 turns out, may even end up using the #40 pilots ... one step at a time

The motogadget mbox looks nice, but is to expensive for us we are on a shoe string buget.
I am planning to clean up the stock wiring, especially in the headlight bucket.
Some of the old brass connectors have actually fallen apart.

I greatly appreciate your talent and willingness to help others and envy all the really nice gear and tools you have access to

The BSA & Yamaha shop I worked for in Md used to be a full service car  truck dealership with lots of nice equipment when dealers made repairs using metal lathes, milling machines, etc. the worst part about setting up a new Yamaha (Japanese bikes in general) was connecting all those wires, ground wires everywhere.

I live in Wilmington, NC if you are ever out this way feel welcome to stop in for a beer and chat

Take Care ... Jesse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Sorry I didn't notice your reply at first, I was speed reading, I need to slow down, seems like when ever I go to fast #$%* happens, not good. I usually try to go slow and review things 2 or 3 times before proceeding, must have drank to much coffee

Thanks for your input ... Jesse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Our new New Tail-Brake light for our seat hoop with nice bright tail &  brake lights

Hopefully it will be dependable, just in case I ordered a second one for a backup.

From Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5KCEZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

That matches up will to your hoop.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Yea, it was designed to mount under a fender, but it is just about perfect for our hoop

[Smudgemo]

I am also working on a replacement starter switch to fit in the stock control unit, I hate to spend $50 to a $100 for a new throttle control, starter/kill switch unit when all that is needed is a $5 push button SPDT switch or a SPST momentary switch for the starter connected to a SPDT solenoid relay switch.

If you still have the individual pieces of the switch, you can get a 3D printed housing to rebuild it. $15 total, but you'll be done in under an hour.  http://shpws.me/NkB8

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Thanks, I'll check it out, but the PCB part of the switch crumbled

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Potential location of license plate on our 1977 CB550F Super Sport - under the seat in front of the rear tire.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

It is not attached yet, but if placed there it will far enough in front of the rear tire so it will not touch the tire under full depression of the shocks, I may have to angle the bottom of the plate slightly forward to  be safe and provide a better view of the plate, I don't like side mounted plates for more than one reason.

As far as NCDOT goes I am not sure, but it's easier to read a horizontal plate than a vertical one and I have seen a lot of those around.

How do you like the mono shock installation

[RAFster122s]

Seen at least one bike where the plate was tucked way back under the tail...  Wonder if it would give any ability to defeat traffic cameras, not that I advocate breaking the law or doing stuff that is stupid (which might be inferred by getting snapped by a traffic camera). I am seriously not a fan of them, as I don't like some of their shortcomings and the revenue purposes that the companies who push them are getting (the bulk of the fine). Because of the money breakout, I think it is a corrupt practice that should be stopped in many areas, they do have their purpose but I think they are abused by many areas in their use and definitely in their operation.
When they can tweak settings of less than a second in timing to increase ticket yield by more than 20% I feel that is wrong.  It should be more on the benefit of the doubt rather than lowering the margin to increase yield.

Sorry, to segue off subject...a rant.

Bike is looking great and I like the tail-light.   Look forward to more.

David

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I am not a fan of red light camera's either.

Thanks, I think the taillight is nice also, would be perfect if it had a little bow to it to match the curve of the seat hoop.

It's been a slow process due to time & money, but we are getting there.
It's a nice Father & Son project

We have the seat hoop, seat and exhaust roughed in.
We had to remove the seat hoop and shorten it, the seat we ordered was not quite as long or wide as specified by the seller.
On a positive note shortening the seat hoop made the lincense plate a little more visible, but maybe still hidden from spying eyes

A local muffler shop bent the 21/4" exhaust pipe for us for free, it took about 2 minutes with his machine, maybe not as nice as mandrel bent, but we like it

I found a work around for the desinergrated starter button PCB

We will be using a simple SPST momentary push button switch in conjunton with a relay switch NC headlight  NO starter solenoid.
(5) pack of relay switches for $12 on Amazon shipped https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The relay is supposed to be able to handle 30/40 amps at 14 volts DC and only takes about o.5 amp or less to operate the relay switch.

The connector comes with 16 AWG wires, should be good for about 10 amps which should be plenty since the headlight and starter solenoid or on a 7 amp fuse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Exhaust modifications complete.
Rear frame cross brace modified to accept license plate bracket.
License plate bracket fabricated with rivet nuts & rubber strips installed for attaching the license plate.
License plate bracket installed on cross brace using rivets.
Seat hoop has been shortened and welded back onto the frame to accommodate the reduced seat size, the seat was smaller than advertised 
Cutting and shaping sheet steel for rear fender and seat attachment.
There will be two 3/8" thick x 2" wide black neoprene rubber strips running along the perimeter between the seat and the sheet steel, this will provide raceway for the electrical wires connecting the lights.
Once the seat installation is complete we will work on the following items.
Ignition switch will be replaced with old style Honda ignition switch.
Compartment mod behind the left side cover will be modified to allow for electrics and tool kit.
Wiring harness for rear signal, tail, brake and under frame lighting will be made after installing all the lights.
Next year maybe we will lace up a 5.00 x 16 rear wheel or a rear set.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Brake/Tail light brackets made and installed, brake light installed, this is the tail light lit up from 50 feet away at night.

Sheet metal cut for seat support & tool box.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 CB550F - The recent rain and a sinus infection slowed me down for awhile, but I am up and running again
Battery holder mount modified to allow seat/tool box installation, tool box fabricated,and installed.
Tool box fabricated the old fashion way, no CAD or CNC, used graph paper, made a paper template, traced the paper template onto the sheet steel, cut the sheet steel with the band saw, used vise, hammer and large electricians pliers to bend the sides of the box, used a grinder to make final shaping where needed then welded it in place.
Next steps
1. Replace #45 pilot jets with # 42 pilot jets.
2. Finish electrical wiring, install USB port, relocate new ignition switch.
3. Install neoprene rubber strips on frame then install the seat, this will provide a raceway for electrical wires from the rear signal, tail, brake and license plate lights.
4. Sync carbs and ride

You will probably notice that the tab for the front side of the tool box is about 1/2" shorter than the rest of the sides, that is to allow for the tongue on the bottom of the front of the seat to slip in and hold the front of the seat in place

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 Honda CB550F update
Wiring for tail, brake signal and license plate lights finished. We might end up painting the chrome signal lights with a semi-gloss black paint. The bright white light is from the license plate light, we might have to put a small resistor in line with that light or not. All these lights are LED's.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

It's hard to tell in the wiring photo, but i have Yellow for the brake light, brown for the tail light, Orange & blue for the signal lights and green for the ground.

I used my hot air gun to melt the ends of the sleeve, I plan to use some zip ties on the ends of the sleeve, bur heat shrink would be a good option also

I found a few loose wires on the stock wiring connectors so I am going to remove them from the connectors one by one and solder the wires to the terminals.

I have to thin out the wires in the headlight bucket also, it's a bit crowded in there with that halogen headlight.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 Honda CB550F Super Sport update

The new seat installation with 3/8" rubber strips between the seat and frame to allow for electrical wiring raceway, rear frame mod and lighting are complete.

Tomorrow I will change the oil (Castrol full synthetic 10W40 motorcycle oil), install new ignition switch( actually an ignition switch from and earlier year), replace #45 pilot jets with #42 pilot jets, sync the carbs, I hope

Then Monday and Tuesday I will finish up electrical wiring tweaks, paint the chrome signal light housings a semi gloss black and test ride.