Topic: Silver engine paint?

[edwardmorris]

+2 on the  polishing, one 750 was enough for me, most likely never again.

[riverfever]

Yes, the painting was the easy part compared to filthy, time-consuming polishing.

+1.

I can only polish to about 85% before losing interest. Not quite mirror finish, but I can live with it. 

My HF budget rig is only capable of 85~90% no matter how long I work.
But yeah, if I wanted show quality I'd pay a professional and then fret every time I rode it.

So glad to see you type this. I've been polishing up stuff on mine and I love the end result but it does suck. But now I want to do the other pieces.

[1974 Honda 550k]

Wow I guess that's what they look like when they're prepped correctly and then painted. Mine came out pretty good for my first one but man, Those engines look freakin awesome!!!

Keep in mind that there were quite a few hours of aluminum polishing of the engine covers on those two motors, that is the icing on the cake!  Def a nice job, guys.

I am trying to remove the paint off the chrome that the po put on so he didn't have to polish it. I'll take it shiny side up.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

[Stev-o]

I have used the Duplicolor DE1615 high heat silver on two engines. It's a dead match for the factory silver.

2 years later and in the market for engine paint again.  No complaints with VHT, but going to try the Duplicolor this time. You get it at Advance Auto, CR?


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-engine-enamel-aluminum-12-oz-aerosol-de1615/7140584-P?searchTerm=duplicolor+DE1615

[jaytee-nz]

Steve - I used this exact paint on my CB750 2 years ago and it still looks great. One advantage is that you don't need to cook it in the oven, the heat of the engine does that for you.

[Stev-o]

Steve - I used this exact paint on my CB750 2 years ago and it still looks great. One advantage is that you don't need to cook it in the oven, the heat of the engine does that for you.

Sounds good, thanks. 

[Xander^]

I have used the Duplicolor DE1615 high heat silver on two engines. It's a dead match for the factory silver.

2 years later and in the market for engine paint again.  No complaints with VHT, but going to try the Duplicolor this time. You get it at Advance Auto, CR?


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-engine-enamel-aluminum-12-oz-aerosol-de1615/7140584-P?searchTerm=duplicolor+DE1615

gents,

on the same part on my build also, looking to do my 750 lower end cases.. it has some old layer of something on there... to do a proper prep for paint, what should be me general steps.. i assume not so intense as the prep for polishing the side covers? grits wise etc.?

[AwesomeCB]

I used VHT with primer on two CB engines. The end results looked good and held up for as long as I had the bikes, which wasn't long. Also used VHT on other projects like car brakes and so far so good.

[PeWe]

I purchased PlastiKote Engine enamel, color Aluminum last week.
http://www.plastikote.ca/products/Specialty/Engine-Enamel.html

I'll spray an old valve cover that has cam tower bolts. Welds are smoothed out with JB weld for finish and maybe additional seal so painting it will make it to look better. My next engine build, K1 cases will get PlastiKote too.

I have so far used Motip Engine paint Aluminum which work fine. Very close to Honda color, not thick and show the case surface as it is. Can withstand splashing fuel when removing float bowls or bottom plugs in them. Easy to touch up if needed.
https://www.motip.com/products/motip/automotive/tuning-line/engine-paint/

[Stev-o]

I have used the Duplicolor DE1615 high heat silver on two engines. It's a dead match for the factory silver.

2 years later and in the market for engine paint again.  No complaints with VHT, but going to try the Duplicolor this time. You get it at Advance Auto, CR?


https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-engine-enamel-aluminum-12-oz-aerosol-de1615/7140584-P?searchTerm=duplicolor+DE1615

... it has some old layer of something on there... to do a proper prep for paint, what should be me general steps.

Most likely paint is on your cases.  I started prep on mine yesterday.  First step is clean clean clean the cases! You cannot overdo this step.  I like Gunk Foamy Engine Cleaner. Spray it on and wiper it off, I do not use water but some guys do.  Once clean, I used a wire brush [by hand] where the paint has started to flake off. Then this has to be sanded smooth untill the paint edges cannot be felt with your finger.  Then clean with acetone, twice.  In the past I have then sprayed primer but the guys on this thread say not required so then paint. I plan to give 3 light coats.

[jakec]

I painted my sprocket cover with a duplicolor silver but it turned out to have too much flak/sparkle in it to match the rest of the engine. So I'm going to repaint with either VHT Universal Aluminum or Duplicolor DE1615 (both suggested here). Should I completely remove the paint that's on there now or can I just rough and clean it and let it act as a basecoat?

[EGBIII]

Yep, no primer for me either, just bare aluminum. I did not paint the head or the jugs.

Hey CR, I know you posted this a few years ago but Im wondering was this a full rebuild engine for you? If not did you paint over the bolts or did you replace.

I am not looking to rebuild my engine but would like to put new bolts on. Is it possible to swap them out one by one?

[pjlogue]

I have had excellent luck with Eastwood Ceramic Engine Universal Aluminum.  I use their activator @ 20%.  The engine block should be absolutely clean from any oils/dirt.  Color is almost identical to the factory Honda engine finish and is very durable.  I have spilled gas, carb cleaner, etc. on the hot engine and the finish is unharmed. 

-P.

[beemerbum]

+ on Duplicolor 1615. No primer used on a clean engine.

[Radski]

Hey guys...I know this is an old thread but the good old interwebs directed me here.

my 750 engine just went through two stages of paint stripper, followed by heavy degreasing followed by an old fashioned rinse. The orig paint is all gone however my jugs/head are have some good build up of something plus oxidation in the fins. The rest of the engine has a wonderful coat of oxidation as well. I have not found a method worthy of getting in the crevasses and hard to reach places of the block SO.... at what point can I start painting?? (in the future if/when I need to rebuild the engine..I'll vapor blast)

Besides the oxidation and the buildup in the fins...the engine is clean. Can I paint without removing the oxidation? I just want it to look nice then I'll go through the tedious process of polishing the polishable parts.

Any suggestions would be great

[HondaMan]

Hey guys...I know this is an old thread but the good old interwebs directed me here.

my 750 engine just went through two stages of paint stripper, followed by heavy degreasing followed by an old fashioned rinse. The orig paint is all gone however my jugs/head are have some good build up of something plus oxidation in the fins. The rest of the engine has a wonderful coat of oxidation as well. I have not found a method worthy of getting in the crevasses and hard to reach places of the block SO.... at what point can I start painting?? (in the future if/when I need to rebuild the engine..I'll vapor blast)

Besides the oxidation and the buildup in the fins...the engine is clean. Can I paint without removing the oxidation? I just want it to look nice then I'll go through the tedious process of polishing the polishable parts.

Any suggestions would be great

As far as the fins: I use small-diameter brass brushes (Harbor Freight cheapies, it ruins them) to reach in between the fins. The lumpy stuff is aluminum oxide crumbs. I use steel wool on the case fins and a soft wire brush in a drill motor. Go gently on the smooth faces with steel wool, it can scratch.

The paint I use is Duplicolor's engine paint, with their High-Temp Ceramic engine primer first and their Cast Coat Aluminum after. One coat primer, 10 minutes to dry, first coat over, 10 more minutes, second coat. Coats are light, as the paint is thin. The engine heat final-cures it, so it is somewhat soft until then. It is a very, very close match to the OEM aluminum color, too.

[Radski]

Hey guys...I know this is an old thread but the good old interwebs directed me here.

my 750 engine just went through two stages of paint stripper, followed by heavy degreasing followed by an old fashioned rinse. The orig paint is all gone however my jugs/head are have some good build up of something plus oxidation in the fins. The rest of the engine has a wonderful coat of oxidation as well. I have not found a method worthy of getting in the crevasses and hard to reach places of the block SO.... at what point can I start painting?? (in the future if/when I need to rebuild the engine..I'll vapor blast)

Besides the oxidation and the buildup in the fins...the engine is clean. Can I paint without removing the oxidation? I just want it to look nice then I'll go through the tedious process of polishing the polishable parts.

Any suggestions would be great

As far as the fins: I use small-diameter brass brushes (Harbor Freight cheapies, it ruins them) to reach in between the fins. The lumpy stuff is aluminum oxide crumbs. I use steel wool on the case fins and a soft wire brush in a drill motor. Go gently on the smooth faces with steel wool, it can scratch.

The paint I use is Duplicolor's engine paint, with their High-Temp Ceramic engine primer first and their Cast Coat Aluminum after. One coat primer, 10 minutes to dry, first coat over, 10 more minutes, second coat. Coats are light, as the paint is thin. The engine heat final-cures it, so it is somewhat soft until then. It is a very, very close match to the OEM aluminum color, too.

Thanks HondaMan! I've even tried some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a file to get after the build up but I just cant seem to get into the back areas where the heads curve and whatnot.

What about the oxidation of the case overall? How clean do I need to get it in order to prime and paint?

[Stev-o]

What about the oxidation of the case overall? How clean do I need to get it in order to prime and paint?

The case needs to be extremely clean. 

I use Gunk Foamy Engine cleaner followed by a wipedown with acetone.

[jaytee-nz]

Besides using de-greasers (acetone etc), I also put my cases through the dish washer and run it at the highest temperature. This helps get rid of the oil/grease remnants that you can't get at by hand. You need to do this when the wife is not home and run the dishwasher a couple times afterwards to get rid of the smell !
Haven't found a magic formula for removing the oxidation though - just good old elbow grease using the techniques already described.

[Radski]

What about the oxidation of the case overall? How clean do I need to get it in order to prime and paint?

The case needs to be extremely clean. 

I use Gunk Foamy Engine cleaner followed by a wipedown with acetone.

Thanks Stev-o. The case and engine overall has no more gunk or road grime or anything. Its clean as can be from the aircraft stripper and numerous degreasing dressings. I'm sorry to be a pain here as I can be quite literal...but does the oxidation need to be removed in order to be painted? I understand the necessity of the engine being clean but I'm only asking about the oxidation.

Thanks all!

[Radski]

Besides using de-greasers (acetone etc), I also put my cases through the dish washer and run it at the highest temperature. This helps get rid of the oil/grease remnants that you can't get at by hand. You need to do this when the wife is not home and run the dishwasher a couple times afterwards to get rid of the smell !
Haven't found a magic formula for removing the oxidation though - just good old elbow grease using the techniques already described.

Hey jaytee-nz, I wish I had a washer big enough! Or even a washer at all. lol THats not an option for me even if I had one the engine is all together and I have no intention of taking it apart. If i was, I'd be rebuilding it and vapor blasting it! 

[Tracksnblades1]

Besides using de-greasers (acetone etc), I also put my cases through the dish washer and run it at the highest temperature. This helps get rid of the oil/grease remnants that you can't get at by hand. You need to do this when the wife is not home and run the dishwasher a couple times afterwards to get rid of the smell !
Haven't found a magic formula for removing the oxidation though - just good old elbow grease using the techniques already described.

👍 The dishwasher is truly an innovative idea, and way more economical than an old or new Karcher.

[jaytee-nz]

Have to add that the cases were quite clean to begin with. I wouldn't use a dishwasher if there was a lot oil / grease present as it may do nasty things to its internals (and therefore run the risk of the wife blaming me as she is not motorcycle inclined !!).

[PeWe]

Pressure washer to be sure that old sludge is removed from the oil channels. Dish washer powder work fine after a primary clean with degreaser to remove most oil and sludge. Dish washer powder make the alu surfaces darker.
If clean with pressure, save the oil channel rubber end plug in the lower case first. I have washed a CB750 lower end without top case and crank ou  but the entire trans in dish washer powder is great! Crank washed separate. Blew dry quick and spray some thin oil as rust protection.

[HondaMan]

Hey guys...I know this is an old thread but the good old interwebs directed me here.

my 750 engine just went through two stages of paint stripper, followed by heavy degreasing followed by an old fashioned rinse. The orig paint is all gone however my jugs/head are have some good build up of something plus oxidation in the fins. The rest of the engine has a wonderful coat of oxidation as well. I have not found a method worthy of getting in the crevasses and hard to reach places of the block SO.... at what point can I start painting?? (in the future if/when I need to rebuild the engine..I'll vapor blast)

Besides the oxidation and the buildup in the fins...the engine is clean. Can I paint without removing the oxidation? I just want it to look nice then I'll go through the tedious process of polishing the polishable parts.

Any suggestions would be great

As far as the fins: I use small-diameter brass brushes (Harbor Freight cheapies, it ruins them) to reach in between the fins. The lumpy stuff is aluminum oxide crumbs. I use steel wool on the case fins and a soft wire brush in a drill motor. Go gently on the smooth faces with steel wool, it can scratch.

The paint I use is Duplicolor's engine paint, with their High-Temp Ceramic engine primer first and their Cast Coat Aluminum after. One coat primer, 10 minutes to dry, first coat over, 10 more minutes, second coat. Coats are light, as the paint is thin. The engine heat final-cures it, so it is somewhat soft until then. It is a very, very close match to the OEM aluminum color, too.

Thanks HondaMan! I've even tried some 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around a file to get after the build up but I just cant seem to get into the back areas where the heads curve and whatnot.

What about the oxidation of the case overall? How clean do I need to get it in order to prime and paint?

To be fair and honest: most of the time I simply take them to the machine shop where they run them first thru their parts-washer machine(s) and then bead-blast them. Or, I send them to Restocycle where Nils turns them into something similar to precious metal! I only wish I had seen his ads when my engine was apart, I would have sprung for that in a heartbeat. I have done something like 8 engines now with his work on the various pieces, and it lights up my garage, even with the lights out.