Topic: CB350F preferred oil?

[dougan]

72 CB350F.  It has been a couple years since I rode it, and I'm going to give it an oil change.  In the past I used that Valvoline 10W40 Motorcycle oil which went well for me, and I recall having trouble with other 10W40 oils and making a mental note to stick with that product.

Well, I can't seem to find it locally anymore.  I can find it on the internet for more $$, so that's an option, but I was wondering if anyone had any other preferred oil that I might be able to find locally?  Otherwise I might just find a decent 10W40 synthetic and hope that works well.  Mostly wondering if having a specific oil is really important, or if any decent 10W40 will be adequate for my machine.  Tried searching but didn't find much-- sorry if this is a common question.  Thanks!

[strynboen]

there vas no syntetic mc oil in 1972..so vhy do your bike, need it now?.i just use konvensonell oil..and thange a bit often..

[1974 Honda 550k]

72 CB350F.  It has been a couple years since I rode it, and I'm going to give it an oil change.  In the past I used that Valvoline 10W40 Motorcycle oil which went well for me, and I recall having trouble with other 10W40 oils and making a mental note to stick with that product.

Well, I can't seem to find it locally anymore.  I can find it on the internet for more $$, so that's an option, but I was wondering if anyone had any other preferred oil that I might be able to find locally?  Otherwise I might just find a decent 10W40 synthetic and hope that works well.  Mostly wondering if having a specific oil is really important, or if any decent 10W40 will be adequate for my machine.  Tried searching but didn't find much-- sorry if this is a common question.  Thanks!

10w40 is 10w40 in my opinion, just because it has the word "motorcycle" after 10w40 they think they should charge more. I have regular Valvoline 10w40 in my 74 550 four, no problems yet.

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[Stev-o]

I have the same question:  What is the best oil to use?

[grcamna2]

I use Shell Rotella 15/40wt. oil that is actually meant for trucks;it works well for me.

[strynboen]

now its rolling....

[Stev-o]

now its rolling....

Are they Danish?

[Johnie]

Nope...Honey Dews

[strynboen]

now its rolling....

Are they Danish?

i hope.......

[Frostyboy]

I told her to put a litre of oil in the engine! 

[Deltarider]

I have good results with Castrol GTX High Mileage motoroil. 15W-40 is good, even better than 10W-40 because I don't ride when it's freezing. Suggested to me by an oilman who had a CB550. This oil does a good job on the rubber parts too. Like many CB's, also on mine the shifter seal leaked. After using this oil, it's diminished, so far I didn't even bother to replace the seal. Like most oils it contains enough zinc (you need a little, don't think of adding more). The advantage of Diesel oil is all bla bla. Once in the internet it keeps on echoing.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

there vas no syntetic mc oil in 1972..so vhy do your bike, need it now?.i just use konvensonell oil..and thange a bit often..

For one thing a lot of the automotive oils now have friction reducers which can cause your wet clutch to slip, or so I am told

[mrfish2]

You're gonna need zinc in your oil, that's the main concern. Pretty much most of modern motorcycle oils don't include it. A lot of people (myself included) like the Rotella oil meant for diesels because of its zinc content. As you'll soon find out you've opened the biggest can of worms there is to open.....

[PeWe]

Yepp, oils of today are NOT as back in the 60-70's.
More anti friction stuff and catalytic converters that do not like ZDDP came middle of the 80's right?

Check here about zinc content in a really good motorcycle oil.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=109&pcid=21
10W-30, !0W-40 , 20W-50 or 20W-60.  I use 20W-50 in my CB750

[bwaller]

dougan, as you may have noticed oil threads usually end poorly. It's a "mine is bigger than your's" deal. There have been a couple really knowledgeable people (now long gone- ran for the hills) that have tried to help with good info but it usually gets personal.

Pick a brand name oil you like, motorcycle oils are usually safe for wet clutches, and use it. Some will suggest 10W40 isn't viscous enough that the SOHC4 engine needs 20W50. It depends on where you live & how you ride. A ten minute ride up & down the boulevard anywhere in the northern half of North America may never heat a 20W50 enough to rid the oil of condensation. Ride across the southern half of the country non stop is a different story!

If you're the type that is bothered by not really being sure you've chosen the right oil, or the right viscosity, or need more Zn, here's what I suggest. Run whatever oil you choose for 1000 miles, then send Blackstone Labs a sample of your used oil for analysis. The results will tell you how your oil held up, if you can run it longer next time...or not, if there is certain suspended metals meaning likely engine bearing wear, if there is adequate Zinc etc. that we need for rocker arms. Lot's of interesting information. I would include a sample result, but it shows the oil type & viscosity I use and that might start something! 

Good Luck with your decision. 

[gtmdriver]

If you can't get an oil with the correct zinc content you can always use an additive.

ZDDP Plus is one that is commonly used.

[Deltarider]

If you can't get an oil with the correct zinc content you can always use an additive.

ZDDP Plus is one that is commonly used.

Unless you're a 100% aware of the formula (additive package) of your oil, abstain from any additive whatsoever 'cause basically you don't know what you're doing. BTW, this is commonly recommended.

[ADW]

there vas no syntetic mc oil in 1972..so vhy do your bike, need it now?.i just use konvensonell oil..and thange a bit often..

For one thing a lot of the automotive oils now have friction reducers which can cause your wet clutch to slip, or so I am told

You have been told correctly. The only oil that should be used in a wet clutch motorcycle is one with a JASO-M or -MA rating. That is the rating that specifies it will work well with a motorcycle clutch.

I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 in my 350F (and all my other motorcycles as well) and have for years. It is easy to find, inexpensive, JASO-MA rated, and of a correct viscosity range for all my bikes. The 15W instead of 10W is only significant if you start and run your bike in very cold conditions, which is unlikely. You the rider wouldn't want to ride in conditions where you really needed the 10 instead of 15 so you don't need to worry about that. Below is an image of the Rotella bottle showing the JASO-MA certification on the label.

[Deltarider]

But... that label says it's a 5W-40 oil???

[grcamna2]

But... that label says it's a 5W-40 oil???

That must be the synthetic Rotella in the blue bottle.

[ADW]

But... that label says it's a 5W-40 oil???

Oops! Sorry...that's what I get for stealing a Rotella image from the 'net instead of taking a photo of my own bottle! I just went out and took a photo of my very own 15W-40 bottle and revised the original post with the correct photo. Thanks for catching that!

[Dos]

Not to make this alittle more wormy but I also have a cb350f it runs alittle hot and I like to ride a lot on the east coast in northern jersey. Would valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil be the best bet or 10w 40

[Deltarider]

I favour a 15W-40 over a 10W-40 because I never ride when it's freezing. You and I could also do with 20W-40 as was recommended by Honda France back then. The good thing of the CB350F enginedesign is that there remains some oil at the camshaft when the engine is stopped. So at cold start there's oil rightaway. I guess parking on the center stand helps.

[flatlander]

why 20w40 and not 20w50? i always thought 20w50 was fine for long distances.

[Deltarider]

The less 'spaghettilike' parts in your oil (for viscosity, sorry can't think of the name) the better, as they get cut by our gearboxes. So in the end you'll always end up with a somewhat thinner oil. I remember Yamaha also prescribed 20-40 for some models. Long time ago, when I had my first (summertime) job as a teenager at a garage, you had two types of multigrade oils: 10W-30 for winter, 20-40 for summer. In those days people used to change oils twice a year. Than, if my memory serves me well, Esso was the first to come with an all season 10W-40: Uniflo which was an excellent oil that hardly left disposits (lacquer) and kept your engine remarkebly clean. IMO viscosity 50 is for extreme heat, like crossing Death Valley or Andalusia in summer. Important is that every coldstart oil reaches the topend within 8-10 seconds maximum. If wear takes place in our types of engine, it's most likely at the topend, the bottom end lives forever. BTW, that's why the topend of the CB350F is superior to the other Fours.
So, to conclude, oil will always be somewhat a compromise. Pick the one you like best, that is: offers the best for your climate and your use of the bike. I don't do short rides. For less than 12km I prefer the pedal bike. Better for my bike, better for me, better for the city and better for the planet.