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I might suggest this first: don't use a dwell meter when the timing can't be set. The reason: the gaps and baseplate position must be known in order to be able to try to sort out any geometry problems, and the dwellmeter masks all of this.Here's what might be happening: the baseplate might be somewhat smaller than those edges that are supposed to hold it on the bike. See if you have "slop" when the 3 screws are loose. If so, try this: insert a shim in the bottom edge of the plate to shift it upward, then set the Points to 0.014" gap. Then adjust the plate to make the 1-4 "F" mark line up at idle, and see where this leaves the 2-3 subplate timing. In the case of the TEC points sets, they usually come right in once this is done.The FEW and Daiichi baseplates are too small by almost 0.5mm diameter. This allows the whole system to shift timing on the 1-4 side by about 3 degrees: since the 2-3 side then must shift twice that much (6 degrees) to "catch up", and since the subplate only allows 5 total degrees adjustment, it becomes impossible to move the 2-3 set into time. The "fix" for the FEW plates is to center them with a shim or two in the edges of the baseplate at those supports: the Daiichi points themselves introduce another geometry problem that often can't be fixed at all on top of the baseplate issue. That's why I think we're lucky for still having the TEC units available today!
There is no "need" to switch away from points, And the Dyna will just draw more power, without much , if any, spark improvement. However, if you are unable to make the points system work, it could get you driving.The points are a simple and basic electrical switch. When closed they draw current through them, charging the coil. Open, allows the coils to spark the plugs. There are only two electrical connections. One side connects to the engine case, the other connects to the coil. Pay attention to the wire terminals on the points so they aren't allowed to contact the engine case, and be certain the insulation collar on the post is centered.Once the connections are confirmed, rotate the crank so that the points are at their most open position. Ignore the timing marks for now. Set the mechanical gap to book spec. If you apply power now, an attached light will shine bright as the lamp filament provides an electrical path around the point contacts. Now rotate the crank until the light goes out. This is where the 1.4 F mark should align. The main plate screws are loosened just enough to allow the plate to rotate. If the main plate is undersize, the spring pressure from the points can move the main plate in the engine bosses and this can change the gap. The crank's cam position can alternate which spring is dominant as the crank is turned...which changes the gap setting you just made, because the plate can move with loosened screws. I like to shim the plate, so it can't move laterally in the engine bosses. The shims I use are feeler gauge "fingers". Now, when you rotate the plate, the 1.4 point gap doesn't change, and you can rotate the plate to a position where the light will come on as the F mark aligns with marker. Lock all three screws of the main plate down tight and do a final check of both max gap on the highest point of the cam on the crank, and that the light comes on when the marks align. You can remove the shim now. Next move on to the 2.3 point set. Again rotate the points cam to make the points open their widest and adjust the gap. Then rotate the crank for 2.3 F mark alignment. The 2.3 points have their own sub plate, which is moved on top of the main plate, to get the light to illuminate as the marks align. In most cases, you are now done with point timing. If ever you loosen the 1.4 plate screws for any reason, you will need the shim for the plate so the plate will hold lateral position, particularly if you attempt to use a dynamic timing light. I've done both, and no longer use the Dynamic to set basic timing, only to verify that the advance is working properly.If you "run out of range" on either point set, you'll need to pick another of the three engine bosses to place the shims, and start over from the beginning with the 1.4 points. I have yet to develop a rule about which mount boss to shim. I think I used the lower left, last time I did this. Now I just insert shims where ever is the largest before loosening the three screw for the 1.4 plate, 'cause that's where it was needed last time I did the adjustment. No need to do the same work twice.There is a FAQ entry about shimming the points plate.[/quote
Thnx fly. We are going to Kos. It looks nice and warm for whole week.Lähetetty minun SM-G903F laitteesta Tapatalkilla
I also ordered a main jet kit. Im gonna try the 125# jets. What could cause the popping, compression sounds and backfiring when engine is warm? Bike runs better when its cold and no popping, backfiring or compression sounds on carbs. Thats one reason to try 125# mains.
I did a 10 min test on idle and there was little or non change at all in color. Actually only cyl2 had little tanned color on it.
