Topic: Removing exhaust studs - confined spaces

[eigenvector]

I am trying to remove a couple of broken exhaust studs, but am finding that the space is just a touch too small for my stud extractor.

what other options might I have for real tight confines?
Already tried vice grips - not enough room for the jaws.
Don't have a welder - can't weld on extension

From what I can tell, the studs themselves are not too difficult to get turning - my stud extractor removed the other 6 without too much difficulty

[calj737]

Pour heat to them with a propane torch. Then, try to get a good whack on them with the side of a dead blow, then us the stud extractor or double-nut method. If they don't turn quickly, heat them more. And I mean cherry red hot. Dousing with rust cutter helps too while they're hot.

[Powderman]

Use a propane torch to heat the aluminum around the stud, not the stud itself. Heating the stud will cause it to expand and be even tighter. Heating the surrounding aluminum will expand the aluminum much quicker relieving the tension on the stud and loosening any possible LocTite. Getting anything there red hot is not necessary The coolest "red hot" is black red and starts between 700-1000°F. I don't want anything on my motor that hot. The aluminum shouldn't need more than 250-350°F to be effective.

[eigenvector]

I'll give that a try later today.

I also tried a stud extractor - no go.  The studs are so rusty that the extractor just strips off the metal flakes.

In fact the reason I wasn't able to remove them before was because the studs sheared off with a small amount of force.

It's the reason why you don't use hardware store bolts on your exhaust manifold.   

[mystic_1]

How about grinding some flats onto the sides of the stud and then turning it with a wrench?

mystic_1

[Retro Rocket]

How about grinding some flats onto the sides of the stud and then turning it with a wrench?

mystic_1

Easier to use two nuts, gives you more to grip on and does that exact same job without running the risk of screwing up the stud....

[Powderman]

How about grinding some flats onto the sides of the stud and then turning it with a wrench?

mystic_1

Easier to use two nuts, gives you more to grip on and does that exact same job without running the risk of screwing up the stud....

You obviously didn't look at his pic. The whole threaded end of the stud is snapped off, only shaft left.

Heat on the aluminum and a pair of Vise Grips would have that out in no time at all.

[eigenvector]

It's starting to turn.  Heat and penetrating oil are doing the trick - although my propane ran out so I wasn't able to go as far as I would have liked.

I'll pick it back up in the morning - but one of them at least is beginning to turn.  Once it get moving - say a full turn it should zip out no problem.

[Powderman]

Ya, once you've broken them free you should be able to turn out the rest of the way without issue. Turn out a turn then back in a 1/2 turn  until they are out or to binding anymore. Exhaust studs really do need to be a specific heat resistant material and not hardware store quality as mentioned.

[Retro Rocket]

How about grinding some flats onto the sides of the stud and then turning it with a wrench?

mystic_1

Easier to use two nuts, gives you more to grip on and does that exact same job without running the risk of screwing up the stud....

You obviously didn't look at his pic. The whole threaded end of the stud is snapped off, only shaft left.

Heat on the aluminum and a pair of Vise Grips would have that out in no time at all.

I did,  but I didn't click on it and enlarge it, my eyes aren't what they used to be {and getting worse} ...
I would have tacked a nut on the end of it and used a 6 point socket or spanner, along with some penetrene  { I don't have an torch}..

[calj737]

Ping me if you need some tock replacement studs. I've got a bundle of them recently removed from a 550 head. I never use the stock units always replacing them with ARPs.

[eigenvector]

Naw, don't need the replacement studs.

Besides, these are M8 to M6 studs 

There's a tooling supply shop down the road from me that I can use to get something better than was there.

[eigenvector]

Well that's one down.

I thought it was turning - nope.  It did one full revolution then snapped off cleanly flush with the head.

No matter - I drilled it out and used a square ez-out to remove it entirely.

I'll get the next one later.  I don't like rushing jobs like this - too many chances of making a mistake and wrecking something irreplaceable.

[754]

Never turn it full turn when stuck, if you can get an eight turn, start going back and forth, then slowly try more.
 There will be debris stuck to it, and if you dont give it a chance to release, it will wipe out the thread coming out.
 Go easy, take the time to work back and forth...always easier than drilling it out.

 If you have the blue wrench dont hesitate to turn stud a dull red 1/4 inch above the aluminum.. make sure you do net get the flame on the aluminum. Yes it will grow, but the expansion, followed by contraction, allows it to loosen its grip,, dont try turn while still very hot..