Topic: CB400 Four, version 9.0 for ME I flip for 400 fours

[MoMo]

Good to see that filled,looks like aluminum rod arc welding.That should smooth out,how's the inside look ?

Inside is built up but it doesn't interfere with the alternator so I hardly touched it. Unfortunately , I had to do quite a bit of grinding on the inside of the small upper hole so that the case would sit flush.  All in all, I may have spent an hour at most.  Since the motor will be on the ugly cosmetic side I plan to paint it. I   own a Hondaline Red, white, black and silver riding jacket along with similar color scheme helmet and gloves.  The bike may be painted to match the jacket

[RAFster122s]

Some file work or sandpaper work on the JB Weld & Aluminum and it will be ready for paint in no time.  It isn't a highly visible place, so I'm with you...spend a little time but not a lot on it and move on...

Plenty of other things that are more important to have just right, this isn't one of them.

Frame is looking pretty good, you didn't drag it along to have your Amish welder redo those nasty welds?

Nice wheel and rotor too.

You forgot to mention your shoe collection and all the people you know for Post # 115
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,157763.msg1812850.html#msg1812850

 

David

[MoMo]

All those crevices are indications of impurities and porosity in the weld. All due to grime. The pictures also depict a too cold weld heat. As long as you're satisfied, fine. But it is exactly the outcome I described when you weld old, grimy cast aluminum.

Works for me.  I would've replaced the cases with the polished set I have if I wanted perfection.  And....................it sure isn't in a critical area.


Not sure how impurities would have been removed  as I had spent an hour or so cleaning the cases in the parts cleaner, then using carb cleaner around the broken area...Larry

[MoMo]

Some file work or sandpaper work on the JB Weld & Aluminum and it will be ready for paint in no time.  It isn't a highly visible place, so I'm with you...spend a little time but not a lot on it and move on...

Plenty of other things that are more important to have just right, this isn't one of them.

Frame is looking pretty good, you didn't drag it along to have your Amish welder redo those nasty welds?

Nice wheel and rotor too.

You forgot to mention your shoe collection and all the people you know for Post # 115
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,157763.msg1812850.html#msg1812850

 

David

The wheel is original to the bike, the rotor is one I had drilled but never used. Spokes aren't too bad.  I had an extra set but I gave them to a forum member. Thanks David...Larry

[strynboen]

yes the welder vas not prof. it can be done  more nice and stronger..some vas to Cold and to fast movens dont get it meldet dovn to the rigth height...but it did the job...and it vill not fall off...
if it vas a brake caliber or fork brace..or trippel top..im be vorried to use it...but on a casing..vho just need to be vater tight..its fine

[MoMo]

thanks for  the thorough explanation Cal, not sure what he used but the price and quality fills my needs for this bike.   If I crash(only happened once in 50 years ) I do have that spare set of cases 

along as it doesn't fall off strynboen I am a happy camper

[MoMo]

This must be what happens when a screwdriver is used to remove fork seals Fortunately not in a critical area.  Smoothed it out with a Dremel.


I have posted this before but here goes again-this is by far the best setup I've used to install fork caps.  Tube is in the vise for pictures only.


Usually the pivot arm is in far worse condition, this required minimal attention

 


.

[MoMo]

Disassembled the S&W shocks with this old spring compressor I've had for many moons, kind of surprised there still was dampening so I'll give the shocks a go.




Test fit my new handlebars


Think if I flip them upside down they'll give me that uncomfortable, back-breaking cafe racer ride I'm looking for?...Larry

[grcamna2]

Larry,
What's the recommended tool for removing old fork seals ?

[MoMo]

I use an old tire iron(after heating the fork leg) and rest it another iron or a screwdriver that sits atop the fork leg. Slowly pry around the circumference.  I broke a lower leg once when I rested the iron on the leg so I put something between the leg and iron.  I'll post a photo if you'd like...

[grcamna2]

I use an old tire iron(after heating the fork leg) and rest it another iron or a screwdriver that sits atop the fork leg. Slowly pry around the circumference.  I broke a lower leg once when I rested the iron on the leg so I put something between the leg and iron.  I'll post a photo if you'd like...

Thanks Larry,I needed that info. 

[NobleHops]

Those 400s use the old style seals including a metal ring - and they can be a real PITA to extract. Heat the area and spray a ring of WD40 around the edge of the seal and you will see it get wicked between the seal and leg. Heat it again and when you hear popping sounds the seal is going to be a lot easier to remove.

[MoMo]

Rear end is cleaning up nicely.   I'd post more photos but photobucket does not work. Hopefully, it is temporary as most all  my bike photos are stored there

[grcamna2]

Looks good for orig. paint Larry  ,are those the shocks you cleaned and rebuilt?

[MoMo]

Looks good for orig. paint Larry  ,are those the shocks you cleaned and rebuilt?

original paint but spot touched up using a high quality sable brush and Rustoleum satin black.  It is the same technique I used on the Yamaha DS6 I restored.  Shocks were taken apart and cleaned, not rebuildable but dampening seemed to be fine so I'll give them a shot as is.  Plan is to keep the bike.

[MoMo]

There has not been one thing on this 400 that wasn't butchered by a PO. Every nut and bolt was loose.  I thought I needed swing arm bushings because when I grabbed the rear wheel I was able to move it side to side, so I ordered swing arm bearings-when I took the swing arm off the nut was loose. 

How about this repair?


Inside of the housing, I keep the innards of old beat up turn signals so I can transfer to a good cosmetic housing with bad sockets.


How about this chain adjuster repair?  Looks as though someone fabricated a replacement stop-original is to the right.  Nut and bolt on the adjuster are American threads.  I happened to have a spare adjuster laying around.

[MoMo]

Plan is to try and keep the budget under 1000 including purchase price, which was too much(450). That plus 40 for the motor case repair and 110 for tires has current expenditures at 600.  Battery, air filter and paint still needed. I hopefully have anything else needed( a sweep the floor project )....Larry

[grcamna2]

Plan is to try and keep the budget under 1000 including purchase price, which was too much(450). That plus 40 for the motor case repair and 110 for tires has current expenditures at 600.  Battery, air filter and paint still needed. I hopefully have anything else needed( a sweep the floor project )....Larry

I'm glad you decided to keep a 400/4 

[MoMo]

Went out to the shop with an 11 bullet list of things I wanted to accomplish on the latest 400, managed to do all but one-and that was finding replacement handlebar switches.  The left is good but the right had been just a little bit butchered by a PO. Guess I'll be adding a switch into the budget.


Rebuilt the MC but the caliper has a broken easy out in the bleed hole so that'll be added.  Looks like my 1k goal is going to be topped . Other than the distorted rubber the MC was  clean-even the little hole was clear.


My rear end is finished . Everytime I get a colonoscopy I feel that it is




Most parts for the front end are finished and drying,  I'll need handlebars, right switch and front caliper to have a chassis ready for the motor.  Plan is to have a rolling chassis, then finish the motor.  Antique title/tags applied for and should be here in a couple weeks.  Cheers...Larry

[grcamna2]

lol     Good progress Larry,even the back-end of your bike is clean.. 

[RAFster122s]

He used Charmin, because everyone has to go...

MoMo, the PO must have really hated that bike to do all the damage to it. At least now it has a good home with someone who will show it some love.

The CX500 crowd has been using a very inexpensive round MC supplier from ebay that sells them for like $20 last time I looked and they were of surprising good quality and have been durable with no failures.  Shall I dig up the ebay seller name for you?

David

[MoMo]

He used Charmin, because everyone has to go...

MoMo, the PO must have really hated that bike to do all the damage to it. At least now it has a good home with someone who will show it some love.

The CX500 crowd has been using a very inexpensive round MC supplier from ebay that sells them for like $20 last time I looked and they were of surprising good quality and have been durable with no failures.  Shall I dig up the ebay seller name for you?

David

Thanks David but it is the caliper-most likely a broken easy out down inside the bleeder hole.  I've used inexpensive(cheap) master cylinders that worked well. Unfortunately, a caliper from DSS is over $150. I may have an alternative plan but will have to do some research.

[MoMo]

I have a functional brake arm and caliper that is maybe a half inch longer than stock.  Plan is to check fitment after taking wheel and fender back off.  If it is doable I'll have to run the bike without the front fender bracket...Larry

[grcamna2]

I have a functional brake arm and caliper that is maybe a half inch longer than stock.  Plan is to check fitment after taking wheel and fender back off.  If it is doable I'll have to run the bike without the front fender bracket...Larry

Larry,
What is that caliper and brake arm from orig.? pics ?

[MoMo]

I have a functional brake arm and caliper that is maybe a half inch longer than stock.  Plan is to check fitment after taking wheel and fender back off.  If it is doable I'll have to run the bike without the front fender bracket...Larry

Larry,
What is that caliper and brake arm from orig.? pics ?

No idea, possibly a 1973 Cb350G.  I'll take photos later-on my way to work now...Larry