Topic: cb750: Anyone have a tutorial on Safety Wiring?

[MCRider]

Been looking for a tutorial on safety wiring. Or simply a discussion.

I'm going to the Ohio Mile in Wilmington OH for a top speed run. They require wire on drain plugs. Luckily the magnetic plugs I bot came drilled. And my dipstick cap is drilled from the WERA days of roadracing.

But how about the brake line banjos, the oil filter cover bolt, the 4 studs w/nuts that hold the wheel clamps on.

And my oil cooler has hose clamps on it. What about them? Or should I lose the cooler?

I've got a call into the sanctioning body, but thought I'd ask here.

[calj737]

There was a recent post for this. I seem to recall Brent had a pretty decent list of things checked at Safety inspection, but that was specific to road courses. Might scroll back a few pages and see if it emerges.

[Tintop]

Been looking for a tutorial on safety wiring. Or simply a discussion.

I'm going to the Ohio Mile in Wilmington OH for a top speed run. They require wire on drain plugs. Luckily the magnetic plugs I bot came drilled. And my dipstick cap is drilled from the WERA days of roadracing.

But how about the brake line banjos, the oil filter cover bolt, the 4 studs w/nuts that hold the wheel clamps on.

And my oil cooler has hose clamps on it. What about them? Or should I lose the cooler?

I've got a call into the sanctioning body, but thought I'd ask here.

For road racing it would be all of the above, as well as the axle nuts, and shock mounts.  That said, some sanctioning bodies allow you to silicone things like the hose clamps, and nuts.  There are pics of some of that in my sidecar build thread.

[slikwilli420]

I can only speak to what I have seen since I am not a racer or competitor, but I do loo carefully at real race bikes and I would like to emulate that on my project for another layer of authenticity. There are hole drilling fixtures out there for such a task that make life easier, so I might start with one of those or make one if you are into making tools. Wire doesn't weight a lot so think about using a bit more for peace of mind. For instance, you thread the wire through the fastener to be tied and then use your twisting tool to make a nice pigtail of appropriate length over to your anchor fastener. Once threaded through that its important to put enough additional twists so it can only be undone by mechanical means (pliers). I can't comment on number of twists but you want the wire to always act on the fastener so it cannot unscrew at all.

[jaguar]

Section 7

Also find a nice set of "jet twisters"
http://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac43.13-1b.pdf

[MCRider]

Section 7

Also find a nice set of "jet twisters"
http://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac43.13-1b.pdf

I've got the spin pliar from an earlier life. Thanks for the link.

What I can't find is how to do the 4 nuts that thread on the studs of the lower fork legs. Looks like I need to drill thru the hex from flat to flat. My first inclination was to go thru the nut and stud, but that's no good. No guarantee they will always line up. A jig to make such a hole, necessary because of the angle of entry, costs $50. So, I'm looking for pre-drilled nuts. Or maybe try to do it without a jig.

[Old Scrambler]

Ron............flat to flat on the nuts times 2 for each nut...............or drill the studs just below the nuts...........and drill the drain-caps on the fork-legs........then tie them together on each side. I don't run an oil-cooler. Most use AN-fittings. You may get by with wire wrapped around the hoses and the cooler to keep them in place. Most now require the front axle-nut to be wired.

Friday night at the AMA short-track races someone dropped their oil on the second to last lap in one of the smaller classes. The leader took the white flag and went down. 2nd-place was the winner............and it took a half an hour to clean up the track for the main-feature. 

[Tintop]

I've got the spin pliar from an earlier life. Thanks for the link.

What I can't find is how to do the 4 nuts that thread on the studs of the lower fork legs. Looks like I need to drill thru the hex from flat to flat. My first inclination was to go thru the nut and stud, but that's no good. No guarantee they will always line up. A jig to make such a hole, necessary because of the angle of entry, costs $50. So, I'm looking for pre-drilled nuts. Or maybe try to do it without a jig.

Yes you go flat to flat (on an angle), and after you've broken numerous bits you'll wish you had that jig.   However if there is enough of the end of the stud showing with the nut in place you could drill it above the nut and use a split pin.  Same with the axle nut.  The fork drain bolt would have to be wired.  You could also add to the list sprocket nuts, and caliper bolts.

[Haybus]

Don't forget rear brake adjuster, brake stay bolt or nut, and a piece of hose with lockwire around the axle adjusters. Typically the exhaust hanger bolts. If you're running stock front brakes all 3 bracket mount bolts and the caliper half bolts. Those are super fun to lockwire. The bolts that hold the 90 degree supply/return oil fittings. Also super fun. Our rules state no hose clamps on oil lines, but our vintage rep said "well, what do you think we ran back in the 70's?" I made an AN-10 fitting to replace the barb on the return side since it's under pressure, but I just run 2 hose clamps on the supply since it isn't under pressure (per JohnN's guidance). For the AN connections I wrap around the male fitting before the thread and loop back around the nut. It would keep the fitting from coming off, but it certainly isn't going to keep the nut from loosening. There really isn't much meat on those nuts so I was really worried about trying to drill them. Fuel lines and vent hoses should be lockwired or hose clamped. I lockwired everything except the hose going to the tank, where I use a hose clamp for convenience.

But that's for road racing, and rules in different areas of the country vary I'm sure.

Alan

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Larry Romig the safety wire king!

[MCRider]

Larry Romig the safety wire king!

Link?

[MCRider]

Found a real good article from Sport Rider Magazine.

http://www.sportrider.com/safety-wiring-techniques-hands

Old Scrambler: How do we SW the front axle nut? Its kinda hidden.

I bot a jig so I'll drill the fork leg axle cap nuts and the drain plugs.

There is no end to it though. Brake line banjos, bolts that hold the oil lines into the engine, etc.

[Tintop]

Isn't the front axle nut trapped by the lower fork leg clamps & nuts?  If so wiring the nuts should be all that is needed.  At the rear the axle nut isn't 'trapped', so it needs to be wired, or better split pinned (faster / easier to make chain adjustments).

[turboguzzi]

oh, how lucky are we re here in italy, only oil drain and filling plug + oil filter bolt need to be wired. that's all i do in my racers, never had an issue in 9 seasons.... gosh, these are not british twins vibrators that would leave a trail of pats behind..... japanese bikes tend to have fine pitch in critical areas that will simply will not come undone if properly torqued.
whatever, you can skip on the drilling with these wireable/bendable nut washers, accepted practice in aircraft industry.... cant believe it will not pass tech
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/safetywirekits1.php

[Tintop]

Never seen those TG, can't see why they wouldn't be acceptable in a number of places.  I'll ask our tech guy.

[Tintop]

Quick reply from one of the tech committee was'I don't see why not'.  That said, personally I would only use them in places where you did not have to remove the nut repeatedly.  Easier to cut some wire than unfold the tabs (and risk breaking).  Good idea, and I would certainly look at using them in the future.  Thanks for pointing them out.

[Justind97]

After going through 100s of Harbor Freight crappy 1/16 bits, I changed to 3/32 bits from Canadian Tire.  Titanium coated ones.

Also, the use of a drill press dramatically increases the longevity of the bits.   I was busting them because the drill wasn't at the right angle and POP! SH!T!

Using an automatic center punch first at your starting spot, then mount in a drill press vise and away you go.

Spent an hour one day doing about 60-70 m8 lock nuts and filled my spares container so I don't have to worry about it in the future.

The way I look at it for racing, anything that is absolutely critical gets wired.  All brake bolts, banjos etc.   For the banjos, if you have switched to stainless lines, chances are you have the aftermarket banjos installed which have a concave head to them.  I drill on an angle from the flat to the center.   I would say you need about 1/16 worth of metal outside your hole.

My go to list:

All brake bolts
Axle bolts
banjos
oil filter bolt
drain bolt
oil filler
clip on bolts
steering stem but/bolt
rear shock nuts
chain master clip
sprocket nuts
shifter arm bolt.
rear set bolts/nuts
Any hose clamps get a lock wire near the end of the tail, spun and looped around to the other side and spun again.   

Should just about cover an entire bike on the must haves.

[MCRider]

Isn't the front axle nut trapped by the lower fork leg clamps & nuts?  If so wiring the nuts should be all that is needed.  At the rear the axle nut isn't 'trapped', so it needs to be wired, or better split pinned (faster / easier to make chain adjustments).

That's what I think and will do. The tech inspector said to do the obvious and if I miss something they'll help me get it done at the track!

They see so many different vehicles in a day, I think they are not hugely strict. We only run one at a time.

[turboguzzi]

justin, "must have" must be a very subjective term in the days i had photogrpher pit lane passes to motgp and WSBK in tracks like monza, misano and mugello, spent time quite closely examinating world class bikes. all i've seen was oil drain/fil plugs wired + spring safety hairpins on the two axles.  you dont have to believe me of course, just browse plenty of motogp and wsbk bike pics on the net and tell us what else you see

[bwaller]

Yossef the difference between "world class" and some of the older period vintage "classes" you know well. The VRRA originated to preserve & race mostly British stuff. I'm happy some of that machinery is "wired tight" !!  The rest of us will survive needing a few extra tiny drill bits!

[turboguzzi]

sure brent, but main problem i've seen along the years with bike on track safety was guys leaving oil on track and it was mostly related to badly DESIGNED motor oil/vapor venting/catching, not enough capacity, overfilling oil, variety of weird stuff out there hidden from the eye.
Wish techs would spend more time on understanding if system can effectively catch overflow etc. rather than insist on secondary stuff IMHO like swaged oil line that is under negative pressure , ditto for builders... 
when i see a long list like justin's and the first thing that might really save your life like a nylock 6mm nut in your front brake  lever pivot is not mentioned, then it brings me to think: priorities all wrong... and i'm sure Justin is a good guy meaning well. Justin, if by brake bolts you meant the front lever pivot, then my apologies. but be honest