Author Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild (Read 67296 times)

AlekStooge · « **Reply #300 on:** March 28, 2017, 03:51:19 PM »

Quote from: AlekStooge on March 28, 2017, 09:29:37 AM

I will soon enough!

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #301 on:** March 28, 2017, 05:02:31 PM »

I'm not sure what your question is, your original question above is confusing to me...I think there's a typo in there. The .285" for intake and .270" for exhaust is a distance measurement. It's the total lift of that valve. So the distance the valve traveled to be come fully open from fully closed. Not a degree measurement.

In order to degree the cam, this isn't really necessary to know. Only to confirm the grind of the cam it's necessary. Brent, MRieck or Cal, let me know if I'm off with this last paragraph

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #302 on:** March 28, 2017, 05:05:50 PM »

Anyway, now that the card is shown, your tappet clearance shouldn't be .003" for intake as you alluded to before, it's supposed to be .005". Valve lash and tappet clearance is the same thing. I could be confused and you just said .003" for sake of argument. If so, disregard this post

AlekStooge · « **Reply #303 on:** March 28, 2017, 06:12:49 PM »

.040" is at the distance at which the valve is open that Megacycle wants me to check my work? (except I'm using running clearance so it'll be .040" minus my valve lash number for he given valve).

The second picture is the lift at TDC with running clearance?

Dave you were right, I was mistaken when I adjusted my lash at .002" and .003" It is .005" and .006" per the card.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #304 on:** March 28, 2017, 07:22:12 PM »

And the degree wheel came loose.

I used my short ratchet and applied too much torque. I checked my tappets and three exhaust valves were loose at the same time when at zero. I guess this means I need to start over.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #305 on:** April 05, 2017, 05:26:25 PM »

Little help here please.

When I adjust my exhaust tappets the screw on 3 and 4 sits a lot higher than 1 and 2. I did this several times and made sure the rocker tappet hole was sitting against the valve stem when putting in the tappets.

In the first photo I adjusted 1 and 2 at TDC and then rotated the engine counterclockwise (alternator side) one revolution to TDC and adjusted 3 and 4 in second photo. I didn't finish because no matter how far I screw out I still get too much drag. I took out the tappets and I still get too much drag.

I speculate that possibly either those valves were put in improperly (I highly doubt that though because Mike Rieck did it) or my finding of true TDC is off. I was pretty meticulous about finding TDC so I don't know.

Also don't know if this will hint something to anyone but exhaust valve 1 is looser than intake 1,3 and exhaust 2, when all those are supposed to be tight.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #306 on:** April 06, 2017, 04:34:38 AM »

Definitely an issue of you finding TDC...or you're finding TDC correctly and your cam install is incorrect.

If you're unscrewing the tappet that far and it's still tight, then that valve is more than likely open and putting pressure on the rocker.

Other than directing you to more info on how to install the cam and find TDC, seems to me like you'd benefit from having someone with you. Any members near by? How about that teacher you took the engine rebuilding class from?

If I was in the room with you, I would remove the rocker cover and verify the cam is installed correctly (1/4 TDC). Maybe by sticking a chopstick in the spark plug hole to visually watch the piston travel.

I would like to see more pictures. Pictures that are bright and clear and not as close up as the above. Feels like you're working in a dark closet with a headlamp. It's like you went spelunking and found an engine.

I want to see the cam notch and somehow to know that 1/4 is at TDC. Like the aforementioned stick in the hole. Again, not so close up, we're not observing mitochondria here.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #307 on:** April 09, 2017, 02:42:16 PM »

I took the cover off here is the piston 1 at TDC. As you see the cam notch is lined up.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #308 on:** April 09, 2017, 03:15:16 PM »

Assuming that 1/4 is actually at TDC this all seems ok to me, but I'm no expert. The notch is a little lower on the head surface but that's normal in my experience. It's not going to line up perfectly.

I honestly don't know. I wish I had an answer for you. It seems like you're doing everything right, but the tappets still end up tight when they shouldn't be. Sorry for asking to remove the cover again. I'd put the cover back on and work at it again. Rubber bands and tapet adjuster screws backed out.

Your modded cover doesn't have any weirdness going on with it, right? I assume you'd mention that if there was.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #309 on:** April 09, 2017, 03:22:04 PM »

No weirdness to my knowledge. You are right about getting the notch perfectly even, you can't get it perfect with having the sprocket bolts off center. Does it matter which side of the head the cam notch is on? Maybe that's it.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #310 on:** May 14, 2017, 04:33:43 PM »

Hey Alek, any update on this motor?

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #311 on:** July 15, 2017, 06:56:34 AM »

Alright cam is degreed in and ignition plate is set with TDC.

It looks like I missed an O ring in the transmission it is hard to see so I missed it. Number 40.https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++15.html#results

Should I open the cases back up. Will I have to replace seals again?

Also I think this shift seal could be put in with the cases together, I don't remember... looks like that is the only way to do it.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #312 on:** July 15, 2017, 03:56:22 PM »

The shifter shaft seal can be put in any time. It's easiest if the shift shaft is removed, though. If there's no oil in the motor yet, just remove the clutch cover and pull out the shift shaft a little until you can just pop the seal in. Or, if you don't want to do that, cover the shift shaft splines in electrical tape and carefully slide the seal onto it and tap it in place with something that fits the OD of the seal that will still slide down the shaft.

As for the o-ring, I didn't know there was an o-ring in the output shaft right there. I can't even really tell where it's pointing to or what the purpose is. Someone else will have to chime in about that.

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DaveBarbier · « **Reply #313 on:** July 15, 2017, 03:57:20 PM »

How do you know you missed it? Did you disassemble the tranny at all? To my eyes it looks like it's part of the tranny assembly...?

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #314 on:** July 15, 2017, 05:39:02 PM »

Yes I disassembled the trans. I was going through my remaining oil seals and o rings because my covers are not on yet and that was one of them left over. It is a part of the trans. I could see why I missed it. That is the only place that O ring goes. O well I guess it won't take me that long to do I'm just worried about the seals already installed.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #315 on:** July 15, 2017, 09:17:11 PM »

I would bet the seals would be fine. It's not like they've been in place too long or gone through any heat cycles.

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #316 on:** July 19, 2017, 01:53:17 AM »

I tore the cases apart. Long story short. The case slightly moved forward.

The damage doesn't look too bad and the lip isn't damaged. I happen to have an extra of that crank seal! However to take it off I would need to take my cam sprocket off, which would require me to flip the engine up right with the bottom case off. I'd have to re-degree the cam after that. Unless anyone knows of another way to remove and install the seal without lifting the crank...

I believe here is where the O-ring goes. See parts fiche above.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #317 on:** July 19, 2017, 04:43:51 AM »

I honestly don't see any damage in the seal. I'm probably missing something. I do see a little bit of black on the case, is that what you're talking about?

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #318 on:** July 19, 2017, 07:30:21 AM »

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #319 on:** July 20, 2017, 08:57:42 AM »

Can't tell the amount of damage but it seems minimal. Like just a scrape. I'd probably put some hondabond on it and seal it up.

Alternatively, I wonder if backing off the cam chain tensioner as far as it'll go will give you enough slack to gently raise the crank enough to squeeze in a new seal.

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #320 on:** July 20, 2017, 02:41:48 PM »

Haha great minds think alike. Already tried it, doesn't work. I had someone take a look at the seal and they said the same thing, Hondabond. Just waiting now on the little pins that sit in the basket part of the transmission. In retrospect I would've not opened it back up the O ring sits right behind a seal. Fiche shows it a little differently. Must be there for a reason though.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #321 on:** July 22, 2017, 08:21:36 AM »

I looked at my clutch while I'm waiting for parts. I think I might have asked this question before but didn't really resolve anything.

I measure my friction discs and they came out 2.7mm so manufacturing standard according to my Honda manual except Haynes says replace it if under 3mm. Going by the Honda manual. Don't know what that's about

The last friction disc so the one closest to you when facing, when the clutch is mounted measures 3.5mm. Looks like that is a different part number than the rest. Why is the last one thicker? https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/E++08.html#results'

Also for the plates you are supposed to measure with a feeler gauge. What surface do you put the plate against to measure?

Thanks, I'm not going to replace the clutch plate/discs but I did get new springs already, Just some curiosities.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #322 on:** July 22, 2017, 10:41:35 AM »

You can use a granite counter or thick glass. There is one friction disk that's fatter than the others. Not sure why, but that's the way it is. I don't think I found a spec for that one.

I ended up buy EBC friction disks for my 550 and I haven't had a problem. So maybe an alternative to OEM. Even if you don't replace them now, it's super easy to replace on the future. Lean the bike far to the left, unscrew the cover and work at it from there. If the gasket doesn't year then reuse it. That's what me and Rick did at the dyno and replaced springs in about 15 minutes.

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AlekStooge · « **Reply #323 on:** July 22, 2017, 02:37:43 PM »

Yeah pretty easy to replace on our bikes. With only 10K on it I'll just replace the springs. I don't get why the plates are measured with a feeler gauge instead of a caliper. I guess puting it on the granite is supposed to stimulate as if the plate was against the disc in the engine.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #324 on:** July 22, 2017, 02:40:26 PM »

Aftermarket discs will not measure the same as the OEM I read somewhere...
The steel plates should...

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Author Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild (Read 67296 times)