Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild

[flatlander]

the whole pin does not go through the insides holes. you only need the thread to get the nuts on and pull them up, so that the flat wedge on them keeps the shaft from turning.
bummer i have no pictures of this, it's much easier in practice than it sounds.

[calj737]

6mmx1.0 pitch, Alek. All 6mm bolts/screws on your bike are 1.0 pitch. All 8mm are 1.25 pitch.

[AlekStooge]

6mmx1.0 pitch, Alek. All 6mm bolts/screws on your bike are 1.0 pitch. All 8mm are 1.25 pitch.

I thought so. Thanks

Flatlander: I believe you are mistaken.


If you look at the outside hole on the right you see the opening where the shaft passes through.


If you look at the inside hole there is no opening and the outside hole below it fits the part.

[flatlander]

ok i might not remember correctly. just install the shafts and rockers and it will all fall into place. there is only one place where these keeper things (or what you call them) can go where it makes sense. i think you're over thinking it

[AlekStooge]

ok i might not remember correctly. just install the shafts and rockers and it will all fall into place. there is only one place where these keeper things (or what you call them) can go where it makes sense. i think you're over thinking it

No worries I got it now.

[AlekStooge]

Put MLS in dry right?

[AlekStooge]

Yeah I'll put it in dry.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=102783.0

Why is there a hole between the stud and the O-ring? I don't see anything on the head that fits into there.



I was reading ahead in my owners manual and it says there is an aluminum washer and a copper washer on each side of the bolt for the camshaft side covers. I don't remember any copper washers. Why the different metals?

[calj737]

Isn't that your locating dowel pin hole?

The aluminum and copper washers are both "crush" washers. Perhaps they are located by their metallurgical properties for expansion? I have no clue, just speculating.

[AlekStooge]

When I matched my part numbers, the dowel pins are rather large and fit over the front studs. They fit the bottom side of the head and slide over the studs. I thought they would be in the center if the block and head where the o rings go. I'll post a picture later.

[DaveBarbier]

That other hole is nothing.

So far so good! As for that base gasket tear, I also wouldn't worry about it.

[DaveBarbier]

Oh, and not sure if you knew, but the MLS gasket is designed to not use an o-ring in that oil hole. The embossing is said to be enough. Plus the stock OEM sized o-ring won't fit with the gasket installed.

[RAFster122s]

Also, NEVER use any sealer on a MLS gasket.  The coated surface on top and bottom is designed to adhere itself and seal the gasket to the surfaces.  They are also said to be reusable at least once...

[AlekStooge]

Dave: Looks like the O-ring fits, it is from Cycle X top end gasket set. I'll remove it if you say so.



This is the head/block with no head gasket or O-rings in between, looks like it sits flush.





I checked it with a feeler gauges .010mm doesn't fit anywhere but the intake side. As soon as you move it over to the sides of the head/block it doesn't fit. I moved to the next size .012 and it fit on the intake side as well then to.015 and that didn't.

Is this normal for ONLY the intake size to have a slight gap? Should I shorten the pins any?

[calj737]

If you use a 0.010 base gasket, what will the gap be? If you use a 0.020 base gasket, what will the gap be? Are your feeler gauges in MMs?

[AlekStooge]

On a side note what do you guys think of the color scheme? I think a black head with polished fins would have looked better if I've done it over again.

[AlekStooge]

Yes I'm measuring in mm's. Are you saying to measure it with the gasket in now?

[calj737]

I'd encourage you to stick to one set of units. Your gaskets will be in thousandths, better to measure your gaps in those. Then, if you have say, a gap less than the thickness of your base gasket, you'll know the pin is short enough, even when compressed.

It's fine if you mix them, but don't forget to do the translations.

Some may find it confusing in your inquiries if like me, they overlook a sentence or specification. Just saying....

[DaveBarbier]

Can you rock the head back and forth (exhaust to intake) and see if it's pivoting on the dowels? Or just remove the dowel pins and see how it sits. That way you'll see if it's the dowels keeping the head off the cylinders.

On second thought, aren't the dowels on the intake side? That could mean, either they aren't fitting in the holes properly due to rust or something else in the holes or that the dowels are too long lifting up the intake side a hair.

I like the color scheme, it'll look even nicer when it's in the frame and all together.

[DaveBarbier]

From Buzz at Dynoman, "The O rings are not used with this gasket, as the embossment around the hole will seal in place of it."

I'm going to do what he says, if you want an o-ring and are confident it won't interfere with sealing or get squeezed into the oil hole, then by all means

[SF]

Ordered oil seals, pucks and O-rings after making a list of OEM part numbers. I will post the list once I know 100% it's correct, so others don't have to go through the cross referencing and hunting.

I'm in the same process right now. Did you post the list? Sorry if you have already but this will be a major help for me.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AlekStooge]

Sorry for not getting back to you guys sooner, busy couple of days and at the end of the day you fall asleep not realizing you did.

Anyways, Cal: Sorry for the confusion my feeler gauges have the SAE measurement and then below that the metric followed with mm on the bottom but not inches. I was measuring in inches but since only mm is listed I got mixed up. Similar to this but written vertically.

I'm going to measure my gasket, I think it was .035 in.

Dave: The dowels do go on the intake side, nothing there is rusted since the block and head were cleaned and the dowels were replaced. I rocked the head back and forth and it didn't rock much. I took the dowels out and the .010 INCH! gauge didn't fit anymore. So now the original question is stands should I shorten the dowels and if yes how does that work since it is only the intake side that has the gap. I mean do I only file one half of each dowel? Cal?

I think my gasket is a Cometic and I think that is what Dynoman sells. Probably will leave the o-rings out.

SF: I have a list written out but I'd like to review it before sending it to you. There are some parts that are obsolete so there is a newer part # for it. When you search for the part number the source sometimes has it listed under the original part number. I'll send it to you sometime between tonight and mid day tomorrow.

[AlekStooge]

My head gasket measures .044 - .046 around there it is hard to measure with the layers flopping around. My largest feeler gauge fits through on both sides of the gasket .026 in.

[SF]

SF: I have a list written out but I'd like to review it before sending it to you. There are some parts that are obsolete so there is a newer part # for it. When you search for the part number the source sometimes has it listed under the original part number. I'll send it to you sometime between tonight and mid day tomorrow.
[/quote]



Hey man, take your time, I'm thankful you have a list that's correct,  I'm going crazy here with all the new part numbers....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AlekStooge]

I did not shorten my dowels. Being that my head gasket is .044-.046 in that will cover the gap. I torqued my APE nuts gradually to 19.5 ft lbs. I'm letting them sit about 24 hours and then loosing and then torqueing again.

[DaveBarbier]

Sounds like a plan!