Author Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild (Read 60604 times)

AlekStooge · « **Reply #425 on:** May 15, 2019, 05:52:34 PM »

All good with electric. I'll find out soon.

Left is new cable and right is original. What am I missing? On the new one the cable doesn't move past the bolt and the ending doesn't fit into the clutch actuation arm. Shortened cable from 4into1.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #426 on:** May 15, 2019, 06:20:03 PM »

Odd, that cable on the left looks similar to mine for the 650...can you confirm it’s correct?

AlekStooge · « **Reply #427 on:** May 15, 2019, 06:38:03 PM »

https://4into1.com/short-clutch-cable-honda-cb360-cb550-cb750/ Measures correct length. I'll have to email them.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #428 on:** May 15, 2019, 08:18:35 PM »

Nothing your teeth can't fix. The new cable is actual better because the knob that locks into the actuator is bigger. Now I got to route it correctly.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #429 on:** May 16, 2019, 02:17:34 AM »

Quote from: AlekStooge on May 15, 2019, 08:18:35 PM

Nothing your teeth can't fix. The new cable is actual better because the knob that locks into the actuator is bigger. Now I got to route it correctly.

Oh ok, so you’re good? When you said the end won’t fit in the clutch actuation lever I thought you meant the cable end won’t work because the end ferrule won’t go into the slot of the actuation lever, meaning it can’t be the right cable.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #430 on:** May 16, 2019, 06:47:56 AM »

The cable was stuck I had to yank on it pretty hard. I fit the cable through the slot and the ferrule fit in. Just took a little determination. I have to grease it. Now the routing.... for all the cables. I know you got clip ons. The choke is just straight from the position I have it in, so that's easy.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #431 on:** May 16, 2019, 09:43:43 AM »

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww282/keen2oqe/Main%20Harness/mh18b.jpg

I found this photo. Looks like the clutch cable sits proud away from the frame. I'm routing it close to the frame.

I did some reading looks like the amount of slack in the housing doesn't matter, what matters is the actual cable slack.

flatlander · « **Reply #432 on:** May 16, 2019, 10:06:59 AM »

the tank will push the cable down, closer to the frame.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #433 on:** May 16, 2019, 10:26:57 AM »

I guess it will fall into place with the tank on.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #434 on:** May 16, 2019, 09:03:10 PM »

Clutch feels fine. I put it in the hook underneath the tank. Sometimes the housing will slide forward or back. I can live with it.

Are the boots supposed to sit further on the manifold? I pushed the carbs in as much as I could and tightened down the screws almost all the way. It feels like I would be able to push the carbs off if I pushed from the top.

Dave this is the cable you shortened for me. When I pull the lever the housing at the lever side pulls up along with it. I'll have to leave that be until I re-weld the bracket the choke bracket is attached to it began to crack. The cable might be a hair too short.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #435 on:** May 17, 2019, 04:36:19 AM »

The hook in the tank isn’t for the clutch cable. It’s for the tank drain tube. But I guess that’s fine. The sheath will move around on the cable, that’s fine.

The carbs are not in the rubber insulators all the way. Put a small amount of grease on the inside of the insulators and really press the carbs on. Put the front wheel against the wall or use the ratchet strap method around the engine to pull the carbs on. Also looks like you have them on reversed, but it’s hard to tell. The double lines go towards the engine.

The way you have the cable installed in the carbs is also wrong. Make it not wrong.
I’m not sure what you’re saying about the housing moving, and yeah, I said it could be the wrong length as you didn’t give me any measurement to go by!!

AlekStooge · « **Reply #436 on:** May 17, 2019, 09:39:31 AM »

Double lines toward the engine. The carbs jumped forward with enough pressure. It's difficult to see in person as well as in the photo but they are on and it feels right.

I was up late and I must have put the choke lever assembly in the wrong order. The first photo is what I did yesterday and 2nd is today, which worked better. However it looks like the correct order was what I had in the first photo.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k-1978-usa_model7222/partslist/F++03.html#.XN7hO1JKjcs

I got it orientated the right way now, it's still doesn't sit right I have to get the wire down under to have it hooked on properly. This is difficult. I'll look in the manual, maybe there will be a clue on the way to do it... perhaps install the cable on the chokes end first then put in the lever.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #437 on:** May 17, 2019, 09:16:06 PM »

Got it! Dave, your cable was the right length. The manual wasn't any help there isn't anything about the choke. I also got things right at the other end. The chokes close all the way and open back up like 95% when I push the plunger back down. There is a little slack left in the cable so I have to pinch the cable sheath and then push the plunger down. I took a long break from working on it. I'm burning myself out.

Now to fix that bracket

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #438 on:** May 20, 2019, 04:35:27 AM »

Awesome, really glad it worked out.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #439 on:** May 20, 2019, 06:17:22 PM »

I think I'm getting ready to start the bike. Other than the brake light shorting everything else seems good to go.http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,177610.msg2063844.html#new

I lubed up all the cables, the chokes close and open all the way using the plunger, throttle feels light and snaps back nicely, clutch feels alright. I just to hookup the oil pressure indicator get gas and oil. I've been reading Hondaman's thread on oil.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,119643.0.html

I was pleased to find Spectro non-synthetic is a favorite. I already use that in my Suzuki. I think I am going to go with 20W-50 over 10W-40, any objections? Anything else I should test out or look at this point?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #440 on:** May 21, 2019, 02:17:11 AM »

For the weight, whatever the manual recommends for the average outside temp. I think I run 20w-50, and I do also use Spectro. They’re based 30 minutes from my house so a lot of local places carry it.

I say go for it. I forget but you’ve got a hotter cam and new hone and rings Or is this a stock rebuild?

AlekStooge · « **Reply #441 on:** May 21, 2019, 05:21:50 AM »

Quote from: DaveBarbier on May 21, 2019, 02:17:11 AM

I say go for it. I forget but you’ve got a hotter cam and new hone and rings Or is this a stock rebuild?

It is not a stock rebuild. If you're are interested in the specifics they will be at the first post.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #442 on:** May 21, 2019, 06:03:24 AM »

Quote from: AlekStooge on May 21, 2019, 05:21:50 AM

Quote from: DaveBarbier on May 21, 2019, 02:17:11 AM
I say go for it. I forget but you’ve got a hotter cam and new hone and rings Or is this a stock rebuild?
It is not a stock rebuild. If you're are interested in the specifics they will be at the first post.

Oh right, ok well as long as you think your jetting is at least somewhere in the realm of where it should be then fire it up.

There are many opinions on break in procedures but a few things are universal. When you first fire it up keep the RPMs a little higher than idle to keep oil pressure up. Change the oil and filter in about 100 miles. I cut open my filter and looked for any bad particles. I recommend riding normally and don’t do long rides where the RPM is constant. Keep it varied. I gave it the beans during my break in.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #443 on:** May 21, 2019, 09:49:42 AM »

Unfortunately the start up won't happen as soon as I thought. I had to order the spring for the oil filter bolt and purchased a crush washer for the drain plug from David Silver among other things.

I don't recall what my carb setting were but I have different jet sizes on hand if need them. I plan on running the starter for short increments with the plugs disconnected and I used a good amount of assembly lube. Unfortunately I won't be doing any riding other than on my street, so all that will come at a later date. In the meantime I going to fix this short that happens with my brake light and hook up the oil pressure switch to some light I have laying around.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #444 on:** May 21, 2019, 11:28:29 AM »

Sounds good. One thing to note, I have never successfully gotten oil pressure by using the starter to crank the motor over with the bike off. I’ve always had to just start the bike. Oil pressure should come up in like 10-20 seconds...which feels like a lifetime when you’re starting a fresh motor.

AlekStooge · « **Reply #445 on:** June 03, 2019, 01:07:09 PM »

I'm looking at compression gauges. I see 4into1 has Motion Pro for over $100 with several fitting including 12mm but I also see similar kits out there for around $30-$40. Is there a difference in quality for what you pay for?

AlekStooge · « **Reply #446 on:** June 09, 2019, 09:32:47 AM »

Alright, I tried to start my motor up couple times over the last week. I cracked the inline fuel filter so I took the tank off and funneled some gas into the carbs and tried to start it like that. I may have flooded it that was 4 or 5 days ago. I then discovered my oil pass on the alternator side was backwards and it was leaking oil from there, I installed it correctly, pressed it in with a socket and put the cover back on.

I got my fuel filter. So this morning I cleared my float bowls they were pretty full. I checked my spark plugs they look like new from the box and smell like gas so I wiped them down. Coils have + power continuity. I also checked the C5 module and it lights up at TDC. I'm going to install the gas tank and put in like a gallon and a half.

To be clear I am not tuning the bike. I'm just trying to get it to fire up and get a steady idle... but here are my some of my carb setting. Carbs looked good when I got them, I clean them several times with carb spray and wire. I'm at 759ft MSL, I have 108 mains, 42 pilots I originally had 45s but Cal told me to keep them at stock size. Floats are set to 14.5mm. I don't recall the other settings it was so long ago, but nothing extreme it was left stock.

I'm going to put the tank on now.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #447 on:** June 10, 2019, 03:42:29 PM »

I’d say with these settings you should be able to hold a decent idle. Fire it up!

AlekStooge · « **Reply #448 on:** June 10, 2019, 05:34:31 PM »

Actually no.... this is the 4th start. The first 2 I think didn't want to hold idle. I close the choke and it's fine. It was after I turned the idle screw it held. Oil pressure light shuts off as soon as I kick it.

So couple things I noticed there was smoking coming from pipe 3 but then I realized it's because oil was shooting out of the tach input..I think (the one facing forward) oops. What if I'm not running a tach? Same thing with the starter? Also there was little oil sitting on top of the head below the cylinder head cover's side covers. I never liked those things.

I touch the pipes and 2 and 3 are at operating temp. After a couple starts 4 became luke warm and 1 is still cold. At least now I know my smoke alarm works.

May I'll turn the bike around 180.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #449 on:** June 11, 2019, 04:37:24 AM »

You need to plug the starter hole and tach hole.

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Author Topic: 78 CB 550K motor rebuild (Read 60604 times)