Author Topic: CB550 All is wrong. Running rough. Wont Idle etc... (Read 6496 times)

Deltarider · « **Reply #25 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:01:13 AM »

Quote

Testing in the first photo with the two black wires I got 10.7dcv probably cause the battery isn't fully charged
This was done with run switch to on and key in and turned on

Charge your battery but some voltage drop is not abnormal. When you switch the ignition on, it's not only two idiot lights but also at least one coil that consumes power and if you happen to have a model that brings the headlight on as soon as you turn the key... who ever invented that should be shot.

NoLuck · « **Reply #26 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:06:37 AM »

Haha Deltarider. I know! Luckily my head light Has an on off switch and I mostly drive with it off when I can. So does this mean that my coils are good? I seem to be getting the most confusing readings based off of my original problem of not getting spark to my 2 and 3 plugs.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #27 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:06:47 AM »

In that first picture you're going onto the painted spine with the black lead. Touch a bolt instead, like that bolt I see in the picture holding the coil bracket to the frame. Paint will screw readings. I'm actually surprised you didn't get zero volts.

What's the battery voltage with the key on and kill switch set to on?

NoLuck · « **Reply #28 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:17:26 AM »

Hey Dave I actually scratched the paint off to get the reading. Same voltage from that bolt as well.
Battery was at 12 I believe with the tests being done.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #29 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:45:53 AM »

Ok, scratching the paint would work too. Good that you verified with a bolt to get same reading.

Cal's test was just to see if the coils are getting power. Looks like they are, albeit lower voltage. I'd wait for Cal to confirm. But as Delta said it would be normal to see slightly lower voltage than the battery, but since we don't know what the voltage at the battery was exactly it's hard to say how much lower it is and if your number is good. Feel me?

It's not good to be diagnosing this with a mildly charged battery. It should be fully charged so the system works normally.

Your ohms readings don't look right to me. And compared to my factory coils yours seem newer.

5.8 is probably ok, but 3.5 seems too low. I'd wait for others to see what their thoughts are.

NoLuck · « **Reply #30 on:** June 01, 2016, 01:50:05 PM »

Ok 3.5 ohms was on the coil that currently isnt firing which is for #2 and #3 spark plug.

I tested the battery before doing the other test and the battery was at 12.6

NoLuck · « **Reply #31 on:** June 01, 2016, 02:25:02 PM »

Do I plug the yellow wire into the blue wire? Like half blue and half yellow or completely swap them?

NoLuck · « **Reply #32 on:** June 01, 2016, 02:33:43 PM »

The blue appears to be permanently connected to the working coil. Could you reference from my photos above which wires to use exactly? The yellow wire seems to be completely removable from the left coil (non sparking coil) . This is so confusing to me. It just seems like swapping wire doesn't work for me.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #33 on:** June 01, 2016, 03:22:23 PM »

Not that it really matters, but I think you have two different coils. I'd bet the right hand side one is factory OEM and the left hand side is aftermarket. I'd also bet that the left is a 3 ohm coil.

Is the right coil stamped with TEC anywhere, I think I see that it is in the picture.

Any brand or serial number on the left coil?

And sorry Cal, but I don't see how that test in your last post can rule out the bad coil. Would it not only confirm the plugs are good? Or are you satisfied the coil is bad?

NoLuck · « **Reply #34 on:** June 01, 2016, 03:47:16 PM »

Hi Dave yes I believe the right hand side coil that is giving spark to 1 and 4 does say TEC on it. I'm at work but I can get a serial number when I get home.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #35 on:** June 01, 2016, 04:04:26 PM »

Quote from: NoLuck on June 01, 2016, 03:47:16 PM

Hi Dave yes I believe the right hand side coil that is giving spark to 1 and 4 does say TEC on it. I'm at work but I can get a serial number when I get home.

No need, I was just curious. If the serial number can tell you what rating the coil is and if it's a 3 ohm coil you might not have to toss it. If it's still good you could save it or sell it.

NoLuck · « **Reply #36 on:** June 01, 2016, 07:41:57 PM »

Ok guys so This was my problem I think. One original coil and one new coil. That's why I couldn't get an accurate readin at first, as I didn't understand where certain wires were going? So I retested and was getting 11.5 volts to my working/sparking coil and was not getting any voltage to my non working / non sparking coil. I'm sure this means that I need to replace the one that is not getting power or providing spark. The black wires in the photo each connect to the wiring harnes through that dual? Bullet connector. I removed the black wires from the dual bullet connector then individualy tested them by using one multi meter wire to touch the end of the black coil wire then the other multi meter wire to the dual bullet connector and got 11.5 for the one that was firing then when switching over to the other black coil wire got 0.00

NoLuck · « **Reply #37 on:** June 01, 2016, 07:54:13 PM »

Yes I did measure voltage to both coils earlier but I did it while both black coil wires were plugged into the dual bullet connector that goes into the wiring harness when separating them from the dual connector that they both touch I was able to get separate readings showing that the non sparking coil isn't getting any Volts sent to it.

meaning bad coil???

jonda500 · « **Reply #38 on:** June 01, 2016, 07:58:15 PM »

the dual plug is the power (+) wire, the coil black/white wires will only give a reading of 12volts when they are plugged in
John

NoLuck · « **Reply #39 on:** June 01, 2016, 07:59:01 PM »

Also I guess that does kinda mean that it is getting 12volts sent to it but not accepting it. What would this mean?

jonda500 · « **Reply #40 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:03:04 PM »

Hang on, I don't understand, where are you measuring the 0 volts to the suspect coil?
John

NoLuck · « **Reply #41 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:04:56 PM »

Yes. Photos incoming

NoLuck · « **Reply #42 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:09:09 PM »

This photo is for the non firing/ non sparking coil

NoLuck · « **Reply #43 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:15:15 PM »

Cal I did that this morning there is a picture of it in page two and a picture of the reading below it which was 3.5ohms

jonda500 · « **Reply #44 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:27:12 PM »

Zero volts would be expected the way that is connected! If you put the red probe where you have the black one and the black one to the frame you'll have 12volts (ignition & killswitch on). Then plug the coils back in and try connecting the red one to the 1.4 & 2.3 points (one at a time) and black to ground(engine or frame) - the points must be open and the red probe goes to the point that moves when rotating the engine, the black probe can go to the other point(ground). then rotate to open the other set of points and repeat - should also both read 11-12 volts.
John

NoLuck · « **Reply #45 on:** June 01, 2016, 08:50:56 PM »

I have a dyna s installed I don't know if that changes anything John?
Sorry I'm unknowledgable about electrical

jonda500 · « **Reply #46 on:** June 01, 2016, 10:04:39 PM »

Oh sorry, I didn't recap/re-read your thread before I posted. Ignore what I said about the points. I'm afraid I don't understand how dyna s ignition systems work, so I'm not gonna be able to be much help there..
John

NoLuck · « **Reply #47 on:** June 02, 2016, 08:55:18 AM »

All wiring work was done by the previous owner. I ordered new plugs caps and coils as a set from 4into1 so I will be replacing both coils, spark plugs wire and spark plug boots.
Also cal, thanks for your continued help. So that one coil not receiving voltage wouldn't be a problem?
Thank you to everyone that helped me learn a bit about how wiring works and for trying your best to help me solve my issue.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #48 on:** June 02, 2016, 09:25:38 AM »

Quote from: NoLuck on June 02, 2016, 08:55:18 AM

All wiring work was done by the previous owner. I ordered new plugs caps and coils as a set from 4into1 so I will be replacing both coils, spark plugs wire and spark plug boots.
Also cal, thanks for your continued help. So that one coil not receiving voltage wouldn't be a problem?
Thank you to everyone that helped me learn a bit about how wiring works and for trying your best to help me solve my issue.

The wiring might function fine but using those light blue connectors is far from ideal. And that long red wire is throwing me off, haha.

It seems that you only needed to get one coil, but as long as you're getting the right coils you'll be good. Also good that you're getting plug caps (what you're calling boots) because you seemed to have 10k ohm ones. As long as you got 5k then you'll be good.

You previously tested the voltage correctly when you went to the spine of the frame and to the black/white wire in that dual terminal. In a later picture you tested incorrectly and got zero volts as expected.

At least that's what I gather from your pictures. But Cal is much more knowledgeable in electrical diagnosis.

NoLuck · « **Reply #49 on:** June 13, 2016, 11:23:57 AM »

Got my new coil installed and it still won't fire 2 and 3. Now I think it's a bad dyna. Which sucks. Now I have to figure out how to test the dyna to see if it has failed. Would a failed dyna still fire 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3?

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Author Topic: CB550 All is wrong. Running rough. Wont Idle etc... (Read 6496 times)