Neither. We all know you're too cheap to buy anything new. And why on Earth would you risk buying a new bike that you haven't owned since man began walking upright?You might actually have to adjust the carbs. 
As soon as I find a cameraman, I'll demonstrate how I do the maintenance with the carbs in situ and I will do it blindfolded. Now who is carbuphobic?
For who is interested - and tired of removing the carbrack with the danger of damaging the boots - you'll find the directions for a normal inspection here.
1. Unscrew the 4 floatbowl screws (later to be replaced by same size allen screws)
2. Pull floatbowl carefully downwards in a straight line. If you number the floatbowls 1,2,3 and 4, you can use them as containers for all the brass parts of that particular carb.
3. Remove springleaf
4. Remove float by carefully(!) extracting it's swingpin. Don't pinch it when you use pliers and do not exercise force. Some manage to break their whatever it is called (towers?). If the swingpin is hard to extract, spray some WD-40. Caution: whilst removing the float, have your free hand cupped under it to collect the tiny floatneedle that will fall down. Don't loose it! They are expensive.
5. Pull the main jet using your thumb and finger. Some wiggling does it.
6. After removing the main jets twist the throttle wide open so the slide
and the needles will rise and with your free hand insert from below a match or wooden toothpick into the needle jets (aka emulsion tubes). When that is snug in the needle jet, cant or turn the wooden toothpick a mm or so and you can wiggle the emulsion tube out easily. Some WD-40 at forehand can help. Essential in this procedure is that you open the throttle so the needles are up. BTW, sometimes the needle jet just drops by itself after the main jet is removed, so start with your hand cupped under it.
7. Use a small screwdriver and 'slid it in sideways (horizontally)' to unscrew the slow jet. Spraying a little bit of WD-40 may be of help. Think first and make sure you turn it in the right direction. Gently!
8. All parts go in 1,2,3,4, numbered floatbowls or little containers
9. Now all parts can be inspected and cleaned. Also carefully inspect the tiny O-rings that seal the main jets.
10. The airscrews (in the sides of the carbs) can be removed at all times. Caution: do not loose the little spring under them. On these carbs they don't have tiny O-rings.
11. Back to the carbbodies. Use a can carbcleaner with a straw and spray from below the carbbodies upwards in all it's orifices. Don't forget the openings where the airscrews sat.
12. Install in reverse order. Do not overtighten the slow jets! But it has to sit welll or it will come down (happened to me once).
13. Install floatbowl using new little allen screws instead of the old dreadful crosshead screws. Much easier for future removals.
You need to be at ease and well concentrated. Don't hurry. On a CB500 carb #1 and #2 are a bit harder due to the presence of the clutchcable. Make it a Zen exercise (that's how Soichiro designed motorcycles, with Zen). I can do it blindfolded and after the first time so can you.
This method can be exercised with 022A, 069A, 087A, 627B, 649A carbs.
If you must be at the needles (if you really
must) in principle this can also be done with the carbs in situ, but I myself prefer to have the rack on the table. But remember, once you've loosened the carbarms you're in for another sync (Some can't get enough of that). Although I did the procedure out of curiosity, I have the feeling that as far as the 500/550 you can do a lot of tuning with just the main jets and airscrews and leave the needles where they are - and except in this site - that is common practice. And I'm sick and tired of seeing the same carb diagrams (which does what when) over and over again. It's from the books and just doesn't match my own experience. If you feel you must change the needle position (if you really
must) use a good JIS screwdriver to undo the little crossheads in there or you will ruin their heads.
