Topic: SOLVED! Re-keying seat lock and/or finding a matching lock?

[mkcman17]

Purchased my 550f in pieces and it was missing a seat lock. The bike is really coming together now and I'm at the point that i'd like to get myself to one key for the bike. The ignition and tank match. The key reads H22 and the ignition is stamped 110224H22 or 110234H22 - one number is partially obscured by the fork lock pin. Nothing shows up on my searches...

Is it possible to remove and match the wafers in the seat lock (i've done this once before when replacing a car door lock) or is there a better key code I can keep an eye out for online?

TIA

Mike

Before and after for reference:

[CycleRanger]

check with this guy.
http://www.hondakeys.com/

I've also gotten pre-cut keys from ebay too.

[mkcman17]

Thanks for the reply, maybe I wasn't clear - I have keys but I'm looking for a way to math the seat lock and/or source a matching seat lock. Currently I'm carrying two different keys for the bike.

[CycleRanger]

Sorry, it's late.

I have the same problem with my K5. The ignition was changed sometime.

The locks are pretty easy to re-key but I have no idea who would have the parts.
Probably easier to just buy a new lock set.

[BomberMann650]

Nice bike

[strynboen]

normaly there is a 4 number code on the Lock itself..i have just faund some ekstra keeys at e bay for my 400 four..

it have the code t -1927..the t stands for the auter form of the key.( thange a bit in the years  modells).there is only10-20 kodes,,so easy to find a match key...or a matck Lock... must the same vay..find the code on the bike ...and seargh on e bay for a match..but try to find the 4 siffer code

[madmtnmotors]

I'm pretty sure the tank locks that were used with the fuel door tanks are a pseudo lock, i.e. just about anything flat enough to insert and firm enough to turn will open the tank. It only looks like a lock.

The same thing can be done to the seat lock. Open it up and remove the little brass pins and springs to make the seat lock function as a pseudo lock as well.

[70CB750]

I am sure you can re-key it, I done it with F igniton lock, wasnt that hard.

[strynboen]

the seat Lock is a" real" one..its only the tank Lock vho are a bit "flimsy"

[mkcman17]

normaly there is a 4 number code on the Lock itself..i have just faund some ekstra keeys at e bay for my 400 four..

it have the code t -1927..the t stands for the auter form of the key.( thange a bit in the years  modells).there is only10-20 kodes,,so easy to find a match key...or a matck Lock... must the same vay..find the code on the bike ...and seargh on e bay for a match..but try to find the 4 siffer code

My seat lock has a 5-digit code and I found a loose key on Ebay. The only lead I have on a master key is H22 (on both key and ign), or '110224' stamped across the fork lock pin on the back-facing side of the ignition assembly. internet searches have yielded nothing for either combination.

I'm pretty sure the tank locks that were used with the fuel door tanks are a pseudo lock, i.e. just about anything flat enough to insert and firm enough to turn will open the tank. It only looks like a lock.

The same thing can be done to the seat lock. Open it up and remove the little brass pins and springs to make the seat lock function as a pseudo lock as well.

This actually brings up a pretty good point...if I can get the cylinder out I can probably remove the wafers altogether and turn it into a dummy-lock. I only keep some tools and a bungee under the seat and I take my helmet with me. This may be an acceptable solution for me.

[mkcman17]

Took a stab at it, took apart a spare seat lock assembly I had that was missing a key for practice - setup the wafers by eye and it works great! Didn't even have to omit any wafers, just rearranged them appropriately.

[CycleRanger]

I had that same thought. Good job!

[mkcman17]

Thanks! Never been so happy about such a little thing!

[jonda500]

Well done!
That's very clever,
certainly much better than repeatedly ramming a drill into the key slot till the tumblers fell out! (which i did to one of my seat locks) John

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

So you rearranged the existing 'wafers' to fit your key and now it is a working keyed lock? 

[SKTP]

this is a cool idea....I have 2 keys for my bike (relocated under-tank ignition and the original 78K seat lock)...might have to try this...my 2 keys are fairly different, I wonder if it would work?

[70CB750]

this is a cool idea....I have 2 keys for my bike (relocated under-tank ignition and the original 78K seat lock)...might have to try this...my 2 keys are fairly different, I wonder if it would work?

As long as the profile - aka cross section -  of the key is the same you should be able to do it.

[strynboen]

they do thange over years modells..so dont think(not for shure/edit) all 750 keys can be codet to fit all model years..but give it a try..

[CycleRanger]

I've cleaned/rebuilt a few different locks and it looked like regardless of the key shape the "tumblers" looked the same.

[mkcman17]

So you rearranged the existing 'wafers' to fit your key and now it is a working keyed lock?

Yes. Funny enough, the front three positions were exactly the same between both keys - if I had left it at that I would have been able to use either key to unlock the seat. The last two I swapped to match, however I had to move one of the 'lower' wafers back one more slot.

It looks to me like there are only two types of wafers - for high and low ridges on the key. I held the key alongside the cylinder and 'eyeballed' the ups and downs. At worst, you can just arrange whichever ones work, even if only two or three, and have a lock work for your key (and potentially some others).

[70CB750]

Car locks are not the most precise or sophisticated.


But I seen Volvo key the other day - pretty impressive. I file my own keys for Honda or Jeep but I would be lost trying to do the same for Volvo.