Topic: 1976 CB550 K2 First timer - Sold

[mscuiletti]

When I did the carbs, I more or less did them one at a time.  All the parts were kept in separate containers and I soaked everything in a gallon of Berryman's (one carb at a time.)  The internal basket didn't lose any parts and I used Honda rebuild kits.  Not terribly complicated, but you should make sure each piece is clean and threads look good.  I used fishing line and copper wire to clean out the orifices.  An old toothbrush to encourage the varnished fuel to move on, that sort of thing.  It's easy to lose or damage parts, so take your time.  This is what the exploded carb from my '76 looks like:

I was hoping to avoid separating the carbs but im sure cleaning them all would be beneficial as the bike had probably been sitting for the past twenty years or more. Were you happy with Berrymans? I already have the rebuild kits,just have not had time to dive in.

On a side note, the Hagons are out for delivery, as well as a few other misc parts like starter gasket, rear brake light switch, gas cap gasket, and brake bleeder. If I wasn't spending time doing work on the Scout before this weekend's trip, I would likely try to finish the carbs over the next few days. It's getting closer! Maybe I can still get it out this season.

I am too ready to leave work already.

[mscuiletti]

Back to work:


Original (to me) shocks compared to the 14.2" twins.


I was bouncing on the rear and it no longer feels like a pogo stick. I wasn't able to compress these much but definitely much more clearance. I just tossed the front sprocket cover on just see how things look. Hopefully the seat will be done within the next week or two.





I may do brakes next, lord help me.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I like the patina on that tank.

[Smudgemo]

Don't separate them from each other, just strip the jets and such from each one while in place.  AFAICT, as long as the connecting fuel lines aren't bad, you have no need to separate them.  That was the advice I was given and I figured these guys knew way more than me.  They also said don't use rebuild kit brass - stick with the original stuff.  So I did.

Berryman's is supposedly weak-tea compared to days gone by, but it worked fine for me.  I dropped the parts in one night and pulled them the next.  Floats only got a short time like a few hours just in case. 

[Scott S]

 If you want to soak the whole rack of carbs, go to the Dollar Store and get a plastic storage container just slightly bigger than the carbs (get one with a lid).
 Mix Simple Green and boiling hot water 50/50 and submerge the carbs. This will really break up the crud. Follow up with a GOOD rinse with water and carb cleaner through all the passages. If you leave them soaking too long, it can turn the carb bodies a dark grey. This isn't as good as de-racking and using an ultrasonic cleaner, of course, but it does a pretty darn good job. I have a bucket of Berryman's for all the small parts that will fit in the basket (careful....it WILL ruin rubber bits).
 The good thing about this mix is that it's a good degreaser. I still use that container years later to clean all sorts of small parts. It doesn't harm rubber or plastic and you can dump it on the ground when done. I've refreshed mine a few times over the years.

[mscuiletti]

I do have a rubbermade tote thing that it would fit in perfectly. I had been using it to soak certain parts in metal rescue, so maybe with a good cleaning, I can use that. Is it worth purchasing a carb cleaning tool with all of the slim attachment bits, or will compressed air and carb cleaner/brush suffice?

[Smudgemo]

All I needed for tools was the proper screwdrivers, a wooden dowel of the proper size to push out the emulsion tubes, various bits of fishing line and copper wire (find stranded wire for small diameter wire), a dentist pic to remove the o-rings, spray and dip Berryman's, and a toothbrush.  At least I don't recall anything else.  Air gun from a compressor a bit, but you could use canned air if you have to.  Just get all the parts clean and make sure the passages are cleaned.  You shouldn't need or use any steel tools for cleaning.  Not sure if you're talking about the cleaning tool that looks like a torch tip cleaner, but you don't need it.  And do use eye protection when spraying carb cleaner.  That stuff likes to bounce back at you when you're spraying the carb bodies.

[mscuiletti]

All I needed for tools was the proper screwdrivers, a wooden dowel of the proper size to push out the emulsion tubes, various bits of fishing line and copper wire (find stranded wire for small diameter wire), a dentist pic to remove the o-rings, spray and dip Berryman's, and a toothbrush.  At least I don't recall anything else.  Air gun from a compressor a bit, but you could use canned air if you have to.  Just get all the parts clean and make sure the passages are cleaned.  You shouldn't need or use any steel tools for cleaning.  Not sure if you're talking about the cleaning tool that looks like a torch tip cleaner, but you don't need it.  And do use eye protection when spraying carb cleaner.  That stuff likes to bounce back at you when you're spraying the carb bodies.

Or if you are really bored, to fly out to lovely Michigan rain and rebuild them for me haha. I will start the soak this evening. Pull the floats and just clean those with carb cleaner? It is an interesting material.

Just spoke to the upholsterer. The seamstress is working on the ribs now, and the seat will be done within a week. Watch it not match that green and brown tank.

[mscuiletti]

I like the patina on that tank.

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

[Smudgemo]

 Pull the floats and just clean those with carb cleaner? It is an interesting material.

I don't really know, but I only left the float in the cleaner for a short time b/c I was worried about them getting damaged.  They didn't really have much gunk to remove, but I did later need to go back in and manually clean up a pivot pin that seemed to keep the float from closing the overflow valve.

[Marissa]

I like the patina on that tank.

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

Just throwing in my two cents as I've been reading your thread since you complimented my tank.. I would take a look at getting it ceramic coated. The process is expensive for cars, but for something as small as a tank, it would be a good investment. It's essentially like a long lasting coat of wax that literally bonds on a molecular level to the paint on your tank. This makes the surface of the tank stronger, less porous, and holds its shine. Water beads up automatically and dirt doesn't really stick to it. I would assume this would be the best way to preserve the look of the tank, as if the tank was glossed over, it would still need to be sanded down with 700 grit to get the paint to hold, and at that point no one knows how thin the paint is, so you could do more harm than good. Though, you can get the paint depth measured, but really, it seems like a shorter process to just get a ceramic coating hahaha.

Btw, you own a Scout? I love those! For the longest time I wanted to get one with a Nissan turbo diesel in it (think they had those as an option for the last two production years) but they don't last at all with the New England rust. 

[mscuiletti]

I like the patina on that tank.

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

Just throwing in my two cents as I've been reading your thread since you complimented my tank.. I would take a look at getting it ceramic coated. The process is expensive for cars, but for something as small as a tank, it would be a good investment. It's essentially like a long lasting coat of wax that literally bonds on a molecular level to the paint on your tank. This makes the surface of the tank stronger, less porous, and holds its shine. Water beads up automatically and dirt doesn't really stick to it. I would assume this would be the best way to preserve the look of the tank, as if the tank was glossed over, it would still need to be sanded down with 700 grit to get the paint to hold, and at that point no one knows how thin the paint is, so you could do more harm than good. Though, you can get the paint depth measured, but really, it seems like a shorter process to just get a ceramic coating hahaha.

Btw, you own a Scout? I love those! For the longest time I wanted to get one with a Nissan turbo diesel in it (think they had those as an option for the last two production years) but they don't last at all with the New England rust.

Thanks for the suggestions! I also shouldn't call it a build, but rather a learning experience, as this is my first motorcycle meant for road use. I have likely offended purists everywhere but I got hooked on the aesthetics of certain builds done on these bikes and wanted that look. Regarding the ceramic coating,  I will have to look this up today. I have only really heard of it for exhaust use, so it was not even on my radar. Is it purely a coating on the exterior?

Yes I daily drive a 79. It has been in the rust belt its entire life, but the frame is solid and runs great, only 90k miles now. I figured I would replace the body panels when(if) i ever finish this CB haha. Most people think I am crazy or poor, driving this old truck, but after sitting in front of computer monitors all day, getting into that analog truck is refreshing. Plus, once I get some work in on that body, I can take the top off.



and my co-driver:

To restore the luster of your tank, you can simply wet sand it (lightly, use 1200 grit, then 2,000) and only the top of it. The Black is a single stage paint, the color is multi. The use a quality foam pad to buff it out. You can follow-up with the nano-ceramic coating Marissa recommends for tremendous protection (UV and Chemical). The only trick about the nano coating is the taped on stripes. 

The badges you can restore with some Testers Model paint and shoot some rattle can clear over them.

Here's a quick glimpse of a Sunrise Orange I did a few years ago that was in worse shape than yours-

That is nice and shiny! Did you pull the emblems off at all? Cal, rather than spending all this time on the forum, you should just come get your hands dirty on this bike. 


I spent some time figuring out the rear brakes yesterday. I wanted to ensure everything works before taking off the parts to polish. I read that the pedal should move an inch before the brake pads make contact. If that is incorrect, please correct me so I don't lock up the rears and kill myself.


I also soaked the carbs in Berrymans, but forgot to take an after pic. I will get around to it. I felt like I needed to watch more videos regarding the pin that holds the floats in. I thought it slides out, but I feel like I am going to break something if I applied any more force.

[mscuiletti]

If that bike were closer, I'd certainly get it clean with you. Even if the rear brake were out of adjustment, I'm dubious that you could lock up the bike with the rear drum alone. Some travel before engagement is appropriate, but not so much that you can't apply them without repositioning your foot fully.

The emblems were off the tank for the paint restoration. It did come out nicely and that simple phone camera picture doesn't do that original paint justice.

The "ceramic" coating is very different than the exhaust coating. The ceramic paint coating is a nano molecule for a paint protection, like a super wax really. Its applied over corrected paint, then cured with Infra Red lights.

Sounds like an excuse! Thanks though, you have done plenty with your helpful posts here and on other threads. Is your career based around these somehow or just have vast experience? 

[mscuiletti]

Another segue, but I need to sign up for the basic rider educational course asap. They provide the bike, but it requires me to get a helmet much sooner than my own bike is complete. Everyone I know seems to prefer the look of the open face helmet paired with a shield, or sunglasses, but as I am the one who will break my jaw, I was leaning towards the Bell Bullitt. I do like the Biltwell Gringo, but I have seen both positive and negative reviews. I do like the vintage look, but also don't want it to be purely for looks. They are all DOT certified, but from reading, that may not apply to the lower section in front of the jaw. Any other recommendations? 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Another segue, but I need to sign up for the basic rider educational course asap. They provide the bike, but it requires me to get a helmet much sooner than my own bike is complete. Everyone I know seems to prefer the look of the open face helmet paired with a shield, or sunglasses, but as I am the one who will break my jaw, I was leaning towards the Bell Bullitt. I do like the Biltwell Gringo, but I have seen both positive and negative reviews. I do like the vintage look, but also don't want it to be purely for looks. They are all DOT certified, but from reading, that may not apply to the lower section in front of the jaw. Any other recommendations?

Remember this is your face and brain you are protecting, so don't be a cheapskate.  Try on several helmets before you buy, and don't buy based solely on looks.  Different people have different shaped heads.  That's one of the reasons why Arai has two different helmet shapes.  Bullitt helmets look cool, but have a frequent criticism of wind noise.

I have a couple of open face helmets but I only wear them for parade rides like the DGR.  I would recommend a quality-made, full-face helmet. 

[mscuiletti]

Another segue, but I need to sign up for the basic rider educational course asap. They provide the bike, but it requires me to get a helmet much sooner than my own bike is complete. Everyone I know seems to prefer the look of the open face helmet paired with a shield, or sunglasses, but as I am the one who will break my jaw, I was leaning towards the Bell Bullitt. I do like the Biltwell Gringo, but I have seen both positive and negative reviews. I do like the vintage look, but also don't want it to be purely for looks. They are all DOT certified, but from reading, that may not apply to the lower section in front of the jaw. Any other recommendations?

Remember this is your face and brain you are protecting, so don't be a cheapskate.  Try on several helmets before you buy, and don't buy based solely on looks.  Different people have different shaped heads.  That's one of the reasons why Arai has two different helmet shapes.  Bullitt helmets look cool, but have a frequent criticism of wind noise.

I have a couple of open face helmets but I only wear them for parade rides like the DGR.  I would recommend a quality-made, full-face helmet.

I am not sure my brain is worth protecting haha. I will have to find a local shop to try on. I was curious about the modular helmets as well, so will have to try one of those on. You never know when I want to sip on a drink.   

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Another segue, but I need to sign up for the basic rider educational course asap. They provide the bike, but it requires me to get a helmet much sooner than my own bike is complete. Everyone I know seems to prefer the look of the open face helmet paired with a shield, or sunglasses, but as I am the one who will break my jaw, I was leaning towards the Bell Bullitt. I do like the Biltwell Gringo, but I have seen both positive and negative reviews. I do like the vintage look, but also don't want it to be purely for looks. They are all DOT certified, but from reading, that may not apply to the lower section in front of the jaw. Any other recommendations?

Remember this is your face and brain you are protecting, so don't be a cheapskate.  Try on several helmets before you buy, and don't buy based solely on looks.  Different people have different shaped heads.  That's one of the reasons why Arai has two different helmet shapes.  Bullitt helmets look cool, but have a frequent criticism of wind noise.

I have a couple of open face helmets but I only wear them for parade rides like the DGR.  I would recommend a quality-made, full-face helmet.

I am not sure my brain is worth protecting haha. I will have to find a local shop to try on. I was curious about the modular helmets as well, so will have to try one of those on. You never know when I want to sip on a drink.   

Modular helmets are a compromise.  Unless you buy a Schuberth and spend a load, you will have more wind noise coming through the seams AND the helmet will simply not be as strong as a single piece helmet.  I bought a Bell modular to try it out and it whistles at higher speed.

[mscuiletti]

I have been looking, but have not made it into a store to try on yet. The dog had a wellness check this week, and is completely healthy so I only had to sell my left arm. Anyways, I soaked the carbs a bit last night, while adjusting the rear brake pedal. I also lifted the front a bit to allow more suspension travel, also thinking the rake was skewed due to the longer shocks. My kickstand may need to be lengthened, but the bike does feel solid on it. It just has a great lean to it, maybe like a thug.

I got an automatic punch after reading some people used them with success to press the float pins from the towers in the carbs. I gave it a few tries yesterday but need to get them in a vice so I can get better pressure. Being in IT, i always have cans of aerosol dusters laying around, which I have used previously to cool when holding upside down. I wonder if I can use it on the steel pin, as the tower i believe is aluminum, and then use the punch. I will have to try on Wednesday.

The upholsterer that told me the seat should be done by mid-week. I hope so as the days keep being pushed back.

I probably looked like an idiot, but I rolled it around my parking lot down a slight incline last night, using the rear brake. This was my first time being able to use any of the controls. Baby steps! Thanks again for all of the invaluable help.

[mscuiletti]

After soaking the carbs, I was able to get the float pins out. However, one was tough to pull the rest of the way so I gouged it with pliers. I'll have to figure out the part number and pray that they still sell them, so I dont have to buy the whole float kit. I also broke off one of the nuts in the link arm.  I had sprayed the rusty bolt liberally with wd prior to dissasembling that bolt. I was unlucky using my extractors, so just drilled it out, at the wrong angle. Maybe it was the few beers keeping me cool. Oh well, more parts to order. At least they are completely disassembled and sorted. Now more cleaning and reassembly.






The upholsterer keeps pushing back day after day. I am told early this week for the seat to be complete. In the meantime, I will have to find out if I can purchase a link arm and a float pin. With luck, I will have the other three carbs complete this week.

[mscuiletti]

Better to grab a used set of carbs and cannibalize them, or replace the parts, or the carb body from your set that is now buggered.

Ordered a replacement arm.

[mscuiletti]

Yesterday evening I cleaned the garage and got back to the carbs. I have two rebuilt, with the exception of adjusting the float bowl height. One float moves very freely, and the other is more tight, and stays in place when adjusted, so I have to pull the pin out and check it again. It was not nearly as painful as I thought, almost too easy. I of course have many many photos and documents for reference. The replacement link arm is on the way, and I need to source a pin still, but with luck, the carbs will be done by the weekend. I will polish the bowls and rack while I am waiting for the other parts.

On an unrelated note, my girlfriend is going to be in Italy for two and a half weeks with various family, which means I have a ton of free time starting this weekend. I will make more progress at that point.

[Bankerdanny]

You should be able to carefully clean up the float pivot with some fine sand paper or emery cloth.

[mscuiletti]

You should be able to carefully clean up the float pivot with some fine sand paper or emery cloth.

It looked to have the slightest bend in it, so i used my vice while turning it frequently to straighten it out. I then cleaned it a bit more with sandpaper and now it moves easily. I started polishing more, and quickly rememembered that I really want a bench unit rather than using my drill. I wonder if it is worth the expense. I don't plan on getting a mirror finish, only using a black rouge to make it look better before assembly. I rather get the bike finished and be able to ride it, and polish after ensuring it doesn't leak everywhere and heck, even runs.

[Bankerdanny]

Since the pin is inside the carbs I would just clean it up enough that it will slide into the holes on the towers. It doesn't need to be shiny.

[mscuiletti]

Since the pin is inside the carbs I would just clean it up enough that it will slide into the holes on the towers. It doesn't need to be shiny.

LMAO, I am not polishing the internals of the carbs. I should have clarified. I sanded the pin and reinstalled. I was talking about polishing the bowls which I had added a photo of. I was thinking of polishing the rack as well, and still have to finish up a few other parts. The bike is definitely not going to be nice enough for polished internals.