Topic: 1976 CB550 K2 First timer - Sold

[Stev-o]

croatia is great. and nice coastal roads. pretty good food as well. you probably won't see him back...

He'll be back!  Although my H2 carbs got vapor'd somehow without him....

But did you get Skittles?

Carbs are still in transit, bet I dont get Skittles! [did last shipment]

[mscuiletti]

You all lost me. Skittles?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You all lost me. Skittles?

When Nils vapor blasts parts (https://www.restocycle.com/) he often encloses a pack of Skittles as a thank you.

[mscuiletti]

You all lost me. Skittles?

When Nils vapor blasts parts (https://www.restocycle.com/) he often encloses a pack of Skittles as a thank you.

That sounds like great customer service!


I had not taken any photos, but when attaching the bar end mirrors, I could not get them tight enough. The two sleeves that expand as tightened were too small, and the larger included sleeves did not fit into the bars. I did some reading and ended up using a small rubber hose cut to an inch long, cut down the middle, wrapped the expanding sleeve and somehow wiggled it into the bar. Once tightened now, it acts like a gasket and is much much tighter. That is all I had time for before having to go to the girlfriend's sister's choir concert. Hopefully I get something done tonight.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

  Nils is a great guy. His vapor blasting service is amazing. I only know of a couple people who presently do it although I'm sure there's more:   Nils aka noblehops doing business as restocycle.com and Cerberus Moto in San Diego.

[mscuiletti]

Yesterday, I dropped the seat pan off at the upholsterer. He had some great stories as he used to ride a CB350 long ago, so had a great time chatting briefly with him. I'm looking forward to see how it turns out, and hopefully the shade of brown I chose goes well with the rest of the bike.

I ordered a gallon of Honda Pro GN4 Motor Oil (10w40), after reading positive reviews, which will arrive tomorrow. I will probably buy a second gallon and filter though, so I can change the oil after its running and tuned. I imagine after sitting so long, any rust or debris in the motor will hopefully get caught in the filter, and will need to be replaced before I actually start riding.

The rest of the evening was dedicated to a doctor's appointment and then replacing the alternator in my girlfriend's Camry, which I had replaced just last year. At least the parts store honored the warranty so it was free. Tonight though, I get back to my garage!

[mscuiletti]

Over the weekend, I greased the steering head bearings, installed the front disk, checked clearance so I can order shocks that will not cause the tire to meet the frame, greased the swingarm, installed the starter, replaced points and condensors, soaked the carbs and other bit, filled with oil, and cleaned and installed the intakes.

I realized the front bleeder was rusty, so I have another ordered, as well as a replacement gas cap gasket, and new rear brake switch and spring. I have been unable to find the pedal return spring though. I have mine still, but even after soaking, it has some pitting, so I would prefer replacing it. Anyone know if its the same as a 750? I have located plenty of those...



Ignore the clutch cable routing. I had not thought to order shortened cables. I am curious if I ship the new cables back to 4into1, if they would give me credit. Better send another email.


Opening the carbs was pretty nasty. The bowl on the right looked to be filled with a mix of baby poo and snot. Jets should arrive today, so hopefully I can get them all cleaned up throughout the week, replace all the gaskets and o-rings, and get them on installed before the weekend. I am trying to finish one thing at a time, otherwise I keep getting overwhelmed.
 

[calj737]

Clean up and re-use your stock brass. Take note of the jet sizes stamped on the mains and pilot jets too. And note the clip position on the needle. Aftermarket brass is typically not nearly as reliable as stock and OEM brand is always best used.

The carbs boots probably could use some attention. They need to be supple and have no tears in them as that's a prominent source of vacuum leaks.

[mscuiletti]

Clean up and re-use your stock brass. Take note of the jet sizes stamped on the mains and pilot jets too. And note the clip position on the needle. Aftermarket brass is typically not nearly as reliable as stock and OEM brand is always best used.

The carbs boots probably could use some attention. They need to be supple and have no tears in them as that's a prominent source of vacuum leaks.

Thanks for the pointers as always. Those boots are pretty supple and clean, but I suppose could be a little on the firm side. Any suggestions as to carb soak? I see some people use pine-sol, but I figured I would just get gunk or another soak from a local parts store.

I am a little frustrated that I went with the hoop in the back, purely for aesthetics, because it doesn't clear at 10". I suppose I could hack the rear again but the seat is already being made. Even the long Hagons (360mm/14.2") are fully compressed at 11", which is just too close. I also did not want to spend over $400 on Ikons as that would leave less of a budget for everything else I need. Decision time I  suppose.

[mscuiletti]

360mm Hagon shocks are now ordered. Dave Quinn was incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. I should get them in a few days.

[calj737]

I'd avoid the Pine Sol as it's pretty acidic and can turn the cast aluminum body of the carbs dark grey. Gunk, Berrymans, etc are just fine for soaking the carbs.

Yeah, the whole flat seat/hoop issue rears its head rather often. Folks get caught with the aesthetics then find out later... oops. It's only metal. Cut it and change it later. Or, use the short Ikonsfor a time.

Personally, I am dubious that shocks at short will offer reasonable damping andrebound to be a decent ride. Maybe... Dave Quinn is top notch, so he should be a decent source of knowledge.

If you have to change, a smaller diameter rim/tire and slightly longer shocks would be easiest later to accommodate.

[mscuiletti]

I'd avoid the Pine Sol as it's pretty acidic and can turn the cast aluminum body of the carbs dark grey. Gunk, Berrymans, etc are just fine for soaking the carbs.

Yeah, the whole flat seat/hoop issue rears its head rather often. Folks get caught with the aesthetics then find out later... oops. It's only metal. Cut it and change it later. Or, use the short Ikonsfor a time.

Personally, I am dubious that shocks at short will offer reasonable damping andrebound to be a decent ride. Maybe... Dave Quinn is top notch, so he should be a decent source of knowledge.

If you have to change, a smaller diameter rim/tire and slightly longer shocks would be easiest later to accommodate.

I will pick up some soak from the parts store. As for the shocks, is 360mm considered short? They are about 2 inches longer than what is currently installed, and an inch longer compressed. I'm told that they are the longest Hagon shock with the clevis end for the 550. I will do some fitting, but may just end up cutting the gussets and doing an angled hoop

I have seen numerous builds that use a rear hoop but rather than a flat seat, have a cafe rear seat on top of the hoop. Of those builds, it is obvious that they have a much longer shock, rather than the typical brat style build which frequently only a couple inches of clearance. Fingers crossed that these longer shocks do the trick, and if not, I will rethink the rear. Unfortunately the upholsterer is already working on the seat, but hey, my girlfriend changes her hair color pretty frequently, so why can't i change the bike up.

[Smudgemo]

When I did the carbs, I more or less did them one at a time.  All the parts were kept in separate containers and I soaked everything in a gallon of Berryman's (one carb at a time.)  The internal basket didn't lose any parts and I used Honda rebuild kits.  Not terribly complicated, but you should make sure each piece is clean and threads look good.  I used fishing line and copper wire to clean out the orifices.  An old toothbrush to encourage the varnished fuel to move on, that sort of thing.  It's easy to lose or damage parts, so take your time.  This is what the exploded carb from my '76 looks like:

[mscuiletti]

When I did the carbs, I more or less did them one at a time.  All the parts were kept in separate containers and I soaked everything in a gallon of Berryman's (one carb at a time.)  The internal basket didn't lose any parts and I used Honda rebuild kits.  Not terribly complicated, but you should make sure each piece is clean and threads look good.  I used fishing line and copper wire to clean out the orifices.  An old toothbrush to encourage the varnished fuel to move on, that sort of thing.  It's easy to lose or damage parts, so take your time.  This is what the exploded carb from my '76 looks like:

I was hoping to avoid separating the carbs but im sure cleaning them all would be beneficial as the bike had probably been sitting for the past twenty years or more. Were you happy with Berrymans? I already have the rebuild kits,just have not had time to dive in.

On a side note, the Hagons are out for delivery, as well as a few other misc parts like starter gasket, rear brake light switch, gas cap gasket, and brake bleeder. If I wasn't spending time doing work on the Scout before this weekend's trip, I would likely try to finish the carbs over the next few days. It's getting closer! Maybe I can still get it out this season.

I am too ready to leave work already.

[mscuiletti]

Back to work:


Original (to me) shocks compared to the 14.2" twins.


I was bouncing on the rear and it no longer feels like a pogo stick. I wasn't able to compress these much but definitely much more clearance. I just tossed the front sprocket cover on just see how things look. Hopefully the seat will be done within the next week or two.





I may do brakes next, lord help me.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I like the patina on that tank.

[Smudgemo]

Don't separate them from each other, just strip the jets and such from each one while in place.  AFAICT, as long as the connecting fuel lines aren't bad, you have no need to separate them.  That was the advice I was given and I figured these guys knew way more than me.  They also said don't use rebuild kit brass - stick with the original stuff.  So I did.

Berryman's is supposedly weak-tea compared to days gone by, but it worked fine for me.  I dropped the parts in one night and pulled them the next.  Floats only got a short time like a few hours just in case. 

[Scott S]

 If you want to soak the whole rack of carbs, go to the Dollar Store and get a plastic storage container just slightly bigger than the carbs (get one with a lid).
 Mix Simple Green and boiling hot water 50/50 and submerge the carbs. This will really break up the crud. Follow up with a GOOD rinse with water and carb cleaner through all the passages. If you leave them soaking too long, it can turn the carb bodies a dark grey. This isn't as good as de-racking and using an ultrasonic cleaner, of course, but it does a pretty darn good job. I have a bucket of Berryman's for all the small parts that will fit in the basket (careful....it WILL ruin rubber bits).
 The good thing about this mix is that it's a good degreaser. I still use that container years later to clean all sorts of small parts. It doesn't harm rubber or plastic and you can dump it on the ground when done. I've refreshed mine a few times over the years.

[mscuiletti]

I do have a rubbermade tote thing that it would fit in perfectly. I had been using it to soak certain parts in metal rescue, so maybe with a good cleaning, I can use that. Is it worth purchasing a carb cleaning tool with all of the slim attachment bits, or will compressed air and carb cleaner/brush suffice?

[Smudgemo]

All I needed for tools was the proper screwdrivers, a wooden dowel of the proper size to push out the emulsion tubes, various bits of fishing line and copper wire (find stranded wire for small diameter wire), a dentist pic to remove the o-rings, spray and dip Berryman's, and a toothbrush.  At least I don't recall anything else.  Air gun from a compressor a bit, but you could use canned air if you have to.  Just get all the parts clean and make sure the passages are cleaned.  You shouldn't need or use any steel tools for cleaning.  Not sure if you're talking about the cleaning tool that looks like a torch tip cleaner, but you don't need it.  And do use eye protection when spraying carb cleaner.  That stuff likes to bounce back at you when you're spraying the carb bodies.

[mscuiletti]

All I needed for tools was the proper screwdrivers, a wooden dowel of the proper size to push out the emulsion tubes, various bits of fishing line and copper wire (find stranded wire for small diameter wire), a dentist pic to remove the o-rings, spray and dip Berryman's, and a toothbrush.  At least I don't recall anything else.  Air gun from a compressor a bit, but you could use canned air if you have to.  Just get all the parts clean and make sure the passages are cleaned.  You shouldn't need or use any steel tools for cleaning.  Not sure if you're talking about the cleaning tool that looks like a torch tip cleaner, but you don't need it.  And do use eye protection when spraying carb cleaner.  That stuff likes to bounce back at you when you're spraying the carb bodies.

Or if you are really bored, to fly out to lovely Michigan rain and rebuild them for me haha. I will start the soak this evening. Pull the floats and just clean those with carb cleaner? It is an interesting material.

Just spoke to the upholsterer. The seamstress is working on the ribs now, and the seat will be done within a week. Watch it not match that green and brown tank.

[mscuiletti]

I like the patina on that tank.

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

[Smudgemo]

 Pull the floats and just clean those with carb cleaner? It is an interesting material.

I don't really know, but I only left the float in the cleaner for a short time b/c I was worried about them getting damaged.  They didn't really have much gunk to remove, but I did later need to go back in and manually clean up a pivot pin that seemed to keep the float from closing the overflow valve.

[Marissa]

I like the patina on that tank.

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

Just throwing in my two cents as I've been reading your thread since you complimented my tank.. I would take a look at getting it ceramic coated. The process is expensive for cars, but for something as small as a tank, it would be a good investment. It's essentially like a long lasting coat of wax that literally bonds on a molecular level to the paint on your tank. This makes the surface of the tank stronger, less porous, and holds its shine. Water beads up automatically and dirt doesn't really stick to it. I would assume this would be the best way to preserve the look of the tank, as if the tank was glossed over, it would still need to be sanded down with 700 grit to get the paint to hold, and at that point no one knows how thin the paint is, so you could do more harm than good. Though, you can get the paint depth measured, but really, it seems like a shorter process to just get a ceramic coating hahaha.

Btw, you own a Scout? I love those! For the longest time I wanted to get one with a Nissan turbo diesel in it (think they had those as an option for the last two production years) but they don't last at all with the New England rust. 

[calj737]

I kind of wanted to keep the old faded tank, but get them emblems touched up, and throw clear over it. I think it would look cool as this is obviously not a resto. Is there a better method of adding a bit of gloss to the old tank?

Just throwing in my two cents as I've been reading your thread since you complimented my tank.. I would take a look at getting it ceramic coated. The process is expensive for cars, but for something as small as a tank, it would be a good investment. It's essentially like a long lasting coat of wax that literally bonds on a molecular level to the paint on your tank. This makes the surface of the tank stronger, less porous, and holds its shine. Water beads up automatically and dirt doesn't really stick to it. I would assume this would be the best way to preserve the look of the tank, as if the tank was glossed over, it would still need to be sanded down with 700 grit to get the paint to hold, and at that point no one knows how thin the paint is, so you could do more harm than good. Though, you can get the paint depth measured, but really, it seems like a shorter process to just get a ceramic coating hahaha.
[/quote]
To restore the luster of your tank, you can simply wet sand it (lightly, use 1200 grit, then 2,000) and only the top of it. The Black is a single stage paint, the color is multi. The use a quality foam pad to buff it out. You can follow-up with the nano-ceramic coating Marissa recommends for tremendous protection (UV and Chemical). The only trick about the nano coating is the taped on stripes. 

The badges you can restore with some Testers Model paint and shoot some rattle can clear over them.

Here's a quick glimpse of a Sunrise Orange I did a few years ago that was in worse shape than yours-