Topic: 1976 CB550 K2 First timer - Sold

[mscuiletti]

I do too!  I installed one on my K3...

You will not be disappointed.

That is beautiful! The view isn't bad either.

[mscuiletti]

For the few people who read or reply to this thread, the final parts (hopefully) started arriving today. Again, I will likely have dumb questions soon. I also finally ordered a Haynes manual. I figured many of my little questions will be answered once that arrives. 



Also, I originally planned on just doing a simple wiring job, but have been tempted by the Motogadget M-unit. I realize I could wire the bike easily without it, but like the thought of the different options are far as flashing brake lights, the use of the m-button, the security of having it disable certain circuits in the event of a fault, etc. However, Space is already tight, and that would cost a bit...

[mscuiletti]

How structural is the fork brace for city riding? (no track use, I'm new) The fender is pretty crusty underneath but the brace material seems ok after some cleaning.

[JoeCooley]

Nice collection of parts. The bike is coming along nicely. What's in the Cognito box?

[mscuiletti]

Nice collection of parts. The bike is coming along nicely. What's in the Cognito box?

Just a nicer electronics tray than the one i hacked up with booger welds. I do really want their rearset kit though. However, I still have some other parts on the way which are necessary if I am ever going to get this thing running.

I finally got the throttle adjustment figured out. It only took two trips to the hardware store for the bolts i kept snapping off like an idiot.


I also stripped the paint from one of the switches and started polishing. I ran out of time as I need to head out shortly, but you get the idea. I think it will match the rest of the bike better.


I spent more time on the fender as well.


Still waiting on some cables to arrive, plus the Motogadget M-Blaze bar end signals. I still cannot wait for Chris to let me know once the exhaust is done. I think that will be the biggest visual improvement.

[Stev-o]

I do too!  I installed one on my K3...

You will not be disappointed.

That is beautiful! The view isn't bad either.

Thanks!

How structural is the fork brace for city riding? (no track use, I'm new) The fender is pretty crusty underneath but the brace material seems ok after some cleaning.

It will serve your purpose.

[mscuiletti]

More polishing while I wait for the mail...



Any suggestions on removing the stator cover? I've read that the gaskets can feel like glue. I pried a bit where the wires come out but I don't want to break it.

[calj737]

There's a pair of locating dowels under there that get incredibly stubborn. Look at the parts fiche so you know where they are. Rapping on those areas with a rubber mallet helps persuade the cover off. That, coupled with some strategic and careful prying will get it off.

[mscuiletti]

There's a pair of locating dowels under there that get incredibly stubborn. Look at the parts fiche so you know where they are. Rapping on those areas with a rubber mallet helps persuade the cover off. That, coupled with some strategic and careful prying will get it off.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

[Stev-o]

 Rapping on those areas with a rubber mallet helps persuade the cover off.

+1 Rubber mallet is what I use too.

[mscuiletti]

 I had some stripped bolts on the kickstart lever, but I am hoping I can simply reuse the bearing and get some replacement bolts.



While I wait for the gaskets to arrive, i decided to try on the bucket so I have a place to stuff some wires. Battery cables are delayed but should arrive this week, at which point I will be able to start wiring. I hope to have the basics sorted and functioning before the exhaust arrives. I am looking forward to seeing how it looks with the new grips and signals mounted.



Does the routing of the brake line look ok? Its a one piece braided and is pretty stiff. I cant seem to figure out how it would fit between the fork brace and fork to make use of the stock clip. It is pretty tight and doesn't bind.

[mscuiletti]

I probably should have ordered this a long time ago:


I started my first attempt at plug wires. I quickly realized that I don't have the appropriate crimper so rather than use normal pliers and risk a flaky connection, I ordered a die for my crimper. I love an excuse to get more tools.



I am going to crack open the cluth cover this weekend to find out why the kickstart is not engaging. While I am in there, would it be recommended to replace the clutch springs and discs? The bike shows 2900 miles, but that means that it sat for a very very long time. I figured I could at least check the wear and give everything a good once-over and cleaning at minimum.

[flatlander]

nah, 2900 miles is nothing. they may be stuck together from sitting but i see no reason why they would "go bad" just from that.

[mscuiletti]

nah, 2900 miles is nothing. they may be stuck together from sitting but i see no reason why they would "go bad" just from that.

Is there any way to verify that the clutch is working without the bike running? It feels like there is tension when i pull both the lever and where the cable attaches at the clutch cover. I thought maybe it was stuck because the kick starter was not engaging anything. I am a noob. Back to the manual that came yesterday...

[flatlander]

download the original honda manual here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/shop-manual
the site is in italian but the manuals are english. then, take your newly acquired haynes manual and gently and politically correctly place it in the next available paper recycling bin.
ok that's maybe a bit drastic but really, the honda manual is the only thing you need. the haynes can be useful to cross-reference things if you want.

if you plan to open the clutch cover anyway, you can also remove the clutch basket, separate all the plates and put it back together. after proper adjustment you should be good.

the clutch works dynamically with oil being pushed through it by centrifugal force when it's spinning, i.e. while the engine is running. without fresh oil being circulated through in that way, the plates can stick together after some time.

[mscuiletti]

download the original honda manual here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/shop-manual
the site is in italian but the manuals are english. then, take your newly acquired haynes manual and gently and politically correctly place it in the next available paper recycling bin.
ok that's maybe a bit drastic but really, the honda manual is the only thing you need. the haynes can be useful to cross-reference things if you want.

if you plan to open the clutch cover anyway, you can also remove the clutch basket, separate all the plates and put it back together. after proper adjustment you should be good.

the clutch works dynamically with oil being pushed through it by centrifugal force when it's spinning, i.e. while the engine is running. without fresh oil being circulated through in that way, the plates can stick together after some time.

That was an incredibly useful link. Thank you! I will peruse the manual today now that i have it downloaded to my work computer ha. Hopefully some of the sections that I found less-than-helpful in the Haynes manual  will be covered in the Honda manual. Thanks again flatlander!

On an unrelated note, plenty of deliveries today. I'll finish the plug wires and battery cables after work.

[mscuiletti]

Shock nuts, fuel line clips, breather hose, couple grips, couple gaskets, and points cover screws arrived.



As a side note, the gf wants to take the motorcycle safety course with me in the spring. She wanted a small scooter but I may have talked her into doing a smaller CB, maybe a 175. Next time I won't be cutting anything, so I will take everything I have learned thus far and do even better on the next project.

[algophobe]

good looking so far. I highly recommend the M unit blue. I was debating on whether to use it for a while. I built the harness from scratch (first time ever). it really makes for less wires running back and forth on the spine of the frame. I wired it so that I can shut of all lights with the engine running.

[mscuiletti]

good looking so far. I highly recommend the M unit blue. I was debating on whether to use it for a while. I built the harness from scratch (first time ever). it really makes for less wires running back and forth on the spine of the frame. I wired it so that I can shut of all lights with the engine running.

I do want it, but need to make sure I pay Chris from MotoGP Werks before I go spending my budget haha. Lights off while running to be polite to neighbors, or in case you need to make a run for it? 

Coils and wires tested and ready to be installed:

[algophobe]

I'm no hooligan on the streets and am a law abiding citizen and all, but I saw that once while driving home at night. this dude on a bike came past me and turned his light off and made a quick freeway exit and disappeared. a little later the CHP drove by clueless. thought it was pretty cool.

[mscuiletti]

I believe i have the coils mounted correctly. I had to trim the #1 and #4 cable after realizing they would rest on the exhaust. Now I need to look back and make sure i have the throttle cables routed properly. I thought I had but it's tight in there.




Little improvements. Maybe the originals could be rechromed or polished better, but the oem was too tempting to match the shocks better.



I wanted to try out the GP levers. Keeping the originals and polishing them up a bit. Also, i went with the short clutch cable but it still seems very long. I will have to read if the CB400 cable would work. I am running 400 throttle cables which seem to be the perfect length.




It is looking more and more like a motorcycle and less like a pile of rust. Thanks again for everyone's help and input!

[Stev-o]

Looks good. I like that headlight bucket...

[mscuiletti]

More goodies arrived:


Started working on the battery cables:


I wanted to see how the signals looked with the grips:








Tomorrow I hope to finish mounting the battery, starter solenoid, igntion, and rec/reg and start wiring.

[Marissa]

Absolutely gorgeous!

[mscuiletti]

Absolutely gorgeous!

Thanks Marissa! I have learned a ton so far but am still no where near as skilled as everyone on this forum. How is yours coming along? Got the top-end finished?

Weekend update-
Please ignore the ugly cuts where I needed to mount the seat. I became impatient with an angle grinder.  I figured as this is for me and not a show bike at all, I don't mind some ugly bits as long as i can hide them haha. I also gained ever more humility after trying to figure out how to shove some of the components into the battery tray, wired together, but not cause any shorts. It is ugly but I have power. I will work on the handlebars when I have time this week. Unfortunately it is going to be a stressful week at work as I work on emergency dispatch environments and will be migrating one dispatch center to our software, including police/fire mobile, corrections, etc etc.

How confident would you all be that the grommets will prevent the battery cables from rubbing through and grounding out? Should I drill out the hole and just have space to spare rather than having a snug fit?


I scratched the tray, but hell, it is the first time anything has turned on on this bike in probably 20 years or more.


One other question, and maybe i need to ask 4into1. The universal starter solenoid has a yellow/red wire and a green/red wire coming out of it. I know yellow/red goes to the handlebar start button, but the diagram shows the green/red going from the handlebar to a "starting motor safety unit". Is this included in modern starter solenoids? If so, may i assume the green/red also goes back to the starter solenoid from the handlebar, along with the yellow/red wire?