Author Topic: bench testing a motor  (Read 1575 times)

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Offline crusierlover

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bench testing a motor
« on: July 01, 2016, 09:48:43 PM »
I almost have the motor on my 79 ready to pull.I have so little time these days.It has never even hinted at being unstuck.I most likely will switch out motors.Before i put that motor in I wanted to hear it run,see if it needed anything rebuilt.Gaskets and seals are much easier with it on a bench.If I wanted to test it, would I bolt it to a table,use a gravity type auxiliary gas supply.I was just going to use the gas tank with long tubing from it to the motor.But what about the electrical part such as the coils,solenoid,r/r,ignition switch.I wasnt sure if I connected a push button switch between the positive and negative poles of the solenoid if that would bypass an ignition switch,and how do i get the coils involved since they create the spark.I have seen this done on the webb.Maybe I could take a piece of sheet steel, mount the coils and solenoid to it?

Offline jamesw

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Re: bench testing a motor
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2016, 03:17:18 AM »
Dino (member here) did something like this, where he ran the engine after hooking up a battery and oil lines.

You'll have to go through his videos on his youtube channel Hackaweek tv.
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Offline rb550four

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Re: bench testing a motor
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2016, 07:51:27 AM »
Ignition , cdi boxes, coils, wiring,battery ground, sheetsteel, mounting an engine solid, isolating correct parts electrical unit mounts......time waster, reinventing the wheel....unbolt the frame and engine that you are removing and mount the one you want to try. If the engine runs and doesn't bleed oil , you may want to run it while you rebuild another one. just an idea,
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Offline crusierlover

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Re: bench testing a motor
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2016, 01:22:35 PM »
Ignition , cdi boxes, coils, wiring,battery ground, sheetsteel, mounting an engine solid, isolating correct parts electrical unit mounts......time waster, reinventing the wheel....unbolt the frame and engine that you are removing and mount the one you want to try. If the engine runs and doesn't bleed oil , you may want to run it while you rebuild another one. just an idea,

yes,that is what I am going to do.Not get it 100% snugged and torqued in the frame,just enough to know if it runs and how.On any of these unknowns I intend replacing head gasket,cylinder base basket,any o rings etc.