Author Topic: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid  (Read 6886 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #25 on: June 17, 2016, 07:44:57 PM »
Yep.I bought the complete 79,no parts missing for $175.I never intended for it to be anything but a donor.Then I found out the z is from the uk, so I decided to fix it.Right now its going to the back burner and I am going to get the 80 going.I bought the 80 with engine carbs,tank,pipes,tires,and the other one a 79 with rolling chassis,motor,carbs,pipes both for $500.The 80 has working brakes and a title.And apparently 750 carbs.So I have lots of parts.Oddly enough I dont have sidecovers for the 80 model.I should be able to part out the 79 for more than I paid for it.But for now I am going to transplant from it to get the 80 going.Then at my leisure i will pull its engine out and se what the heck is wrong with it.It sat for 23 years.The guy said "about 8".But still I have plenty pf parts to get going.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #26 on: June 17, 2016, 11:36:20 PM »
As far as getting the bug goes, yep I would agree.Right now I want the 80 and 79 to be complete.Then I want a 750 4 pipe model.And then a 750 supersport.Then 1 either 500 or 550 and I will be done.That's not as bad as some guys.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #27 on: June 18, 2016, 07:19:21 PM »
Bikes I would like to build:
1.This 80 650, one with savior frame,springer front end,stock length .either red or yellow,solo seat,not tractor seat,bobbed rear fender,frenched tailight,electronic illuminated dash panel,motor bored to 674,stainless steel sidecovers with checkered flag on tank and 675 logo on sidecovers. racetech springs,gold emulator valves,drag bars.never ever come anywhere near clubman bars,cafe racer hoops,paper thin seat.Those are the stupidest trend in motorcycling.
2.resurrect the 79 z.complete stock.Just improved brakes,springs,handling.Never come near a sissybar or luggage rack.Once again though, the pullback handlebars have to go.

Offline 754

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 29,050
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #28 on: June 18, 2016, 07:51:07 PM »
Sidecovers on an Amen frame.?  ?
And gold emulators for a springer?..?
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2016, 12:25:48 AM »
Sidecovers on an Amen frame.?  ?
And gold emulators for a springer?..?


ha ha.good points.What I meant is if I have a stock fork then emulators.If springer or even better a girder front end then no.In regard to sidecovers, I just wanted the sprung hardtail  swingarm option of the saviour frame.It looks akin to the 41 Indian with the box around the shock.I never want a true hardtail.My daily rider is a heritage softail.Hardtails are brutal,just for show.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #30 on: June 20, 2016, 05:39:32 AM »
daily ride

Offline rb550four

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,471
  • I'm nobody's slave and nobody's master
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #31 on: June 20, 2016, 03:40:16 PM »
  Very nice.
A few Honda 500's, a few Honda 550's, a few Honda 650's, '72 cb 450, a couple 500/550/650 hybrids, and 2001 750. 
  550 Snowbike -Somebody had to do it.
  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,101678.0.html             
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137317.msg1550907.html#msg1550907


Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #33 on: June 20, 2016, 03:50:26 PM »
I found out  only 5,000  79's were made.So this week  i will get the motor out.Probably replace.But I have another one.It will suck if none of the motors are any good.But 2 of them turn over freely, so that gives me hope.I think the one in the 79 is totally toast.I was about to strip it to fix the 80.But now I am not.The 80 is pretty complete, it can wait.It is the coolest day of the week today.101.Makes working in the garage or the driveway most unpleasant.I am cleaning out my shed, to work in there.I can be in there late at night with the door open and a floor fan.It gets down to mid 90's after midnight.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2016, 09:28:04 PM by crusierlover »

Offline rb550four

  • Master
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,471
  • I'm nobody's slave and nobody's master
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #34 on: June 20, 2016, 07:44:35 PM »
Ah , a man of many motors. :D
A few Honda 500's, a few Honda 550's, a few Honda 650's, '72 cb 450, a couple 500/550/650 hybrids, and 2001 750. 
  550 Snowbike -Somebody had to do it.
  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,101678.0.html             
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,137317.msg1550907.html#msg1550907

Offline 754

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 29,050
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #35 on: June 21, 2016, 09:34:40 AM »
This may fire you up,  rode a ways with him yesterday, he puts his feet up on the cases while riding..
« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 10:22:56 PM by 754 »
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #36 on: June 21, 2016, 02:15:38 PM »
This may fire you up,  rode a ways with him yesterday, he puts his feet up the next the cases while riding..

so his foot on the ground  hiding the footpegs?

Offline 754

  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 29,050
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #37 on: June 21, 2016, 02:53:54 PM »
Yes
Maker of the WELDLESS 750 Frame Kit
dodogas99@gmail.com
Kelowna B.C.       Canada

My next bike will be a ..ANFOB.....

It's All part of the ADVENTURE...

73 836cc.. Green, had it for 3 decades!!
Lost quite a few CB 750's along the way

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #38 on: June 22, 2016, 10:27:25 AM »
Just got the carbs off.Almost impossible. will definitely be moving the battey box and rear fender going back on.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #39 on: June 29, 2016, 01:23:21 AM »
well,heat index supposed to be near 115 today.I suppose about 8 pm when its down to 90 I will go out in the garage and a big fan and get the motor out of the 79.I sure am curious to tear it down and see what got the engine so stuck.I suspect rings rusted to the cylinder walls after sitting 23 years.I will post pictures.I priced sleeves, $99 each.I wont go that route.I have found entire blocks on ebay for $50.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #40 on: June 30, 2016, 04:32:21 AM »
I spent a little time on getting the emotor out of the 79 yesterday.All I want is to get it out of the frame,then start dissassembling it,find out how bad it is.My manual has some parts to engine removal I am questioning.The carbs and exhausts are off, of course the brake pedal and footpeg.I see several bolts to remove holding the engine in.I can see why any electrical connections like neutral switch or oil pressure switch and so on need to be unhooked.But why would I need to remove the rotor and alternator? Also, all the bolts and nuts are pretty much immoveable.The engine mounting bolts i am hoping do not snap off.The clutch cable where it connects to the clutch cover I thought would just lift out of the slot,but i had to remove the cover and disconnect internally the cable.Even with the cable unhooked the clutch lever on the handlebar will not move.Totally rusted from time sitting.The same with the brake lever.But that mastercylinder is trash and I have a replacement,but the big screw holding it on is immoveable.I only wanted the lever as a spare.The handlebar switches on the left clutch side I had taken apart to get them slid off the handlebars.One piece inside fell out,some sort of grey metal piece that might have been a contact point.That part seems broken in 2 pieces.More ebay i guess.But, other than removing the engine mounting bolts and all the cables being unhooked,electrical connections unplugged, isn't that enough to pull the engine? I could hardly believe inside the handlebar switch was spider nests, and down inside the holes where i removed the headbolt covers also.

So,back to the task.I am learning a lot, also realize I will not start from below zero next time.But it is a good way to see what makes these bikes tick.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2016, 04:34:38 AM by crusierlover »

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #41 on: July 01, 2016, 05:01:06 AM »
I just saw a great youtube video on removing a rotor.Once you get the big bolt out,screw a rear axle into the threaded portion.Tighten it.Then hit the end of the axle a few times with a small sledgehammer.It pops the rotor off.

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #42 on: July 06, 2016, 04:48:32 PM »
I finally got the motor out.That is really hard.I don't see how you guys swap engines in and out like its nothing.I know putting it back is going to be harder.I found out when it seemed like the motor was stuck and never going to come out of the frame, lift it up in front and then it comes out pretty good.now  way its going to come out unless you lift the front of the motor up.Taking my doner motor out ought to be a lot easier. I am going to out this on my motor stand, take it apart more,see why its not turning over.99% sure its rings rusted to cylinders.here are a picture of the crusted motor and the crusted engine bay.Yep, this is going to be a long project.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2016, 04:50:33 PM by crusierlover »

Offline SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan

  • Speak up, Whipper-Snapper! I'm a
  • Really Old Timer ...
  • *******
  • Posts: 15,556
  • SOHC/4 Member #1235
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #43 on: July 06, 2016, 08:29:55 PM »
When you are ready to install the motor and the frame is cleaned up, you can lay the motor on its side and place the BARE frame over the motor, slide in your mounting bolts and then tilt the frame back upright. 

Install the other components AFTER you do this.
1975 CB550K1 "Blue" Stockish Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135005.0)
1975 CB550F1 frame/CB650 engine hybrid "The Hot Mess" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150220.0.html)
2008 Triumph Thruxton (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,190956.0.html)
2014 MV Agusta Brutale Dragster 800
2015 Yamaha FZ-09 (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,186861.0.html)

"There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them — but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one.... Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba." Hunter S. Thompson, Song of the Sausage Creature, Cycle World, March 1995.  (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html and https://magazine.cycleworld.com/article/1995/3/1/song-of-the-sausage-creature)

Sold/Emeritus
1973 CB750K2 "Bionic Mongrel" (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=132734.0) - Sold
1977 CB750K7 "Nine Lives" Restomod (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50490.0) - Sold
2005 RVT1000RR RC51-SP2 "El Diablo" - Sold
2016+ Triumph Thruxton 1200 R (http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,170198.0.html) - Sold

Offline crusierlover

  • Full Member
  • *
  • Posts: 83
Re: removing stuck pistons, rotating engine to get cam loose,brake fluid
« Reply #44 on: July 07, 2016, 01:59:01 AM »
When you are ready to install the motor and the frame is cleaned up, you can lay the motor on its side and place the BARE frame over the motor, slide in your mounting bolts and then tilt the frame back upright. 

Install the other components AFTER you do this.

I have heard about doing that to get it out.Makes sense it could be the same to get it in.As I learn these bikes tips will make each task easier and simpler.2 things I learned.The bundle of wires coming from the rotor area go through the opening behind and around the airbox area through the battery box and one connector is attached to the positive side of the solenoid.Also I learned the small screw on the oil pressure switch is a soft headed strippleable screw that won't come out.I bought a set of jis screwdrivers to prevent that.They work great, but not on this crappy screw.I cut that wire for now.Also, my manual said to remove the clutch and rotor assembly.While that might remove some weight it certainly isnt necessary.I also found the bolts holding the back of the mufflers to the frame break easily.I also used a piece of allthread to tap the long through bolts out after they came out about halfway.I have rebuilt ford 289,chevy 327,350,dodge slant 6,and one 40 hp volkswagen,one suzuki gs 1000.They were all easier to get the motors out of.These bikes have almost no room between the motor and the frame,and between the airbox and the rear of the carbs. I also do not like the way the head bolts are down in a tunnel.If you snap one of them you're screwed.I suspect they are hard to break.

But aside from these design flaws the single cam is a huge plus.And the set screw lock nut valve adjustment is huge too.After much trial and many errors I got to where i could tear the suzuki down to the crank in just a few minutes.It had a roller bearing crank instead of plain bearings.Those cranks could withstand a motor being built to 300 hp.I think the honda 4's are probably pretty robust also.The biggest pluses of all is there are about a jillion aftermarket and NOS parts for these bikes.The parts listed as obsolete are still easy to find on ebay and some on craigslist.

plus every guy I have talked to about my working on this bike says wow, I remember those, those were cool bikes.They are still cool bikes.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 02:01:58 AM by crusierlover »