Adjust the cam correctly. You can advance the cam 3-5 degrees to get mor torque at low, or opposite to get more power at top.
Or just time the cam according to its spec. Std sprocket will most likely not give correct setting.
Good bolts and threadlocker. Suzuki bolts have nice wide heads (for old GSX1100 and other models from the 80's),
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321660960468?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITothers like Yamaha bolts
There are good descriptions to find on Internet in general or on these forums.
Satanicmechanic has information to fully understand -
http://satanicmechanic.org/cams.shtmlBelow prints of the papers I got with my Action Fours cam.
Measure cam with 0 valve lash, tightened adj screw until the dial indicator needle stert to move - This to measure cam and compare with cam data
Measure open, close numbers at a certain lift, 0.004" or 0.005" (1mm or 1.25mm)
Then measure with running lash to get a better picture about how it will be for real.
I understood the last part fully when timing my last cam, DP315 that has recommened lash of .012" (0.3mm), double or tripple compared with other cams
Cam was made for that lash, it opened very early and closed very late with 0 lash or running smaller lash. Overlap was huge as well. Cam showed its correct persona with the lash it was designed for. Open/close, duration like other cams, but lift not that high.