Topic: First Build: CB550K0 Back From the Dead!!!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

^Ha, you could tell I was thinking Firestones just from the "vintage tread pattern" huh?  In all honesty why do some people hate them so much, but I see them on so many cafe builds?  They look sooooooo cool. 

They may resemble tires on a Deuce Coupe, but they suck balls on a motorcycle.  ABSOLUTELY NO edge grip for cornering.

[geoluv]

^ see thats what I was afraid of.  They have a raised center line.  It's the OPPOSITE of what you want on a motorcycle.  You want a nice, perfectly round profile, you don't want a "ridge" in the middle.  Are those tires actually made for cars and people just put them on bikes?

I understand that modern tires will work very well on my bike but I want it to al least look period correct.  When I see a bike that is all properly cafed or restored but they have modern tread patterns I feel like it ruins it.  Tires are a very large, visible part of the bike. 

[calj737]

Take this as intended please: forget the "looks" of your tires and pursue the quality of the tire. Its the only part of your bike in contact with the road surface. Unless you buy crappy, cool looking tires that will assist you in becoming part of the road.

You don't have to use Pirelli Sport Demons, there are ample tires (I listed many) that are "period correct" but quality profiles. Firestones were NEVER correct for these bikes. EVER.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

It you want something more vintage looking, there are ample choices.  Firestones being used on these bikes is a hipster trend for those who don't care about how the bike handles. 

You could try Bridgestone S11 Spitfires.  Period correct and they have better profile.  Nowhere near as grippy as a set of BT45 tires though or Avon Road Riders.

[geoluv]

just ordered these bearings for my headset:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Seal-Kit-for-Honda-CB550F-75-77-CB550K-74-78-FREE-SHIP-/161441684008?hash=item2596ac9a28:g:KlcAAOSw9mFWNk0Y&vxp=mtr

I felt like my bike was deciding where I was going not me.  Cant wait to see the condition of the OEM bearings when I swap them. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Looks like an All Balls Racing kit.

The bearings may not show much wear, but the 40-year-old grease and races will probably be a little worn.

[geoluv]

I think I'm going to make my own custom seat since it's so easy to pin the covers to the tray.  I'm going to do maybe 2/3 the stack hieght of the stock seat but I can't decide what material or pattern.  I LOVE the look of an all over cross stitch like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112045641192

But I'm going to ride it in the rain sometimes and I don't want it to soak up nasty New York road spray.  So that leaves me with embossed patterns, which is cool, but limits me to vinyl.  Are there members on here that make custom embossed covers?  Or I could skip the pattern and go for a naturally waterproof leather like shark hide or stingray or eel skin.  I've never seen those types of leathers on a CB before.  I could do fake ostrich too.  I'm sorta known in my group of friends for my very flashy (fake) animal hide saddles on my personal bicycles; I have a limited edition black ostrich Kashimax Aero saddle on my Bridgestone NJS track bike. 

[Bankerdanny]

My 550F has 130/90-18 on the back on a 2.15" Lester alloy. No issues with frame or chain interference. Regarding bars, my '77 had 'euro' bars on it they are similar in profile to superbike bars. Here's a picture of them.

My F is running M style bars, which I absolutely love. They are like a cross between a superbike bar and cafe bars. No real rise to speak of, but a little bit of pull back so that your wrists are in a natural position. Here is a picture from the side that shows where the bar is relative to the top triple. They are higher than the tank, so no interference and you can sit mostly upright if you want.

You can use thin plastic over your foam (but under the cover) on the seat to protect it from rain soaking in through the stitching. Just make sure you have some vent holes in the pan to allow for some air circulation and water drainage.

[geoluv]

The custom saddle is on hold until i work out all the mechanical issues in the bike.

The wiring is driving me nucking futs!!!  everything on the bike works electronically aside form the horn, the headlight (doesn't come on at all no matter what switch I hit), and the turn signals only blink on the right side, if i switch the left blinker on the light just stays on, doesn't flash, doesn't start beeping at me.  The right seems like it stutters a bit before it starts blinking and beeping.  The wiring diagram is not very helpful, there are wires in the headlight that aren't shown in the diagram.  For instance i found two green ground wires with 5 connection points, but the diagram only shows one.  It doesn't help that all the wires are stuffed into the headlight in a rat's nest like fashion and they are all faded. 

Also I may have run into a somewhat serious problem; the bike's power cuts out when I hit a certain high RPM in 5th or 4th gear.  If I taper off the throttle it will "catch" at a certain point and give me power again.  How do I make sure I don't melt my engine while riding or turing it since it's lean right now?  I didn't try running it with the choke partially closed yet.

I noticed the right side 2 into 1 pipe has a little bit of oil collected in the lip of the opening at the end.  the exhaust doesn't smoke as far as i can tell. 

[geoluv]

I took her out again today.  Just to ride it around to test the choke in 5th gear.  It made a huge difference, so I'm running lean like I expected.   Also the bike runs pretty good even not choked, disregard my last post, the bike has exactly as much power as it should with the incorrect jets, I am just not very good at shifting motorcycles anymore, having been way from them for 15 years. 

The blinkers work now on both sides, but in a funny way.  The right side will blink slowly and get faster if I rev the engine.  The left side seems to work pretty good but also I notice it get a little faster when I revs it.  Voltage issue?  Probably just a corroded connection somewhere.  I still have not gotten the headlight to work.  I might pay someone to go over the wiring 'cause it's really stumping me. 

The rear tire seemed like it was not aligned well, but the indicators on the dropouts said it was straight.  I slid the right side forward one notch which made the wheel seem straight to me.  This was all by eye mind you.  Is there a home mechanic method for testing the alignment of these frames? 

On bicycles you tie two shoestrings together then tie one to the right rear drop, wrap it around the head tube, then tie the other end to the left drop and make sure the string is tight.  Then you measure the distance between the string and the seat tube on both sides.  You usually don't have to remove anything from the bike.  If both sides measure the same your frame is not bent, but that method does not show if your frame is TWISTED or not.  A twisted frame as opposed to a bent (bowed) frame is when the head tube, seat tubes, and rear wheel are not on the same vertical axis.  It happens from side ways collisions or more commonly from bicycles being stored stacked next to each other in big piles.  The bikes twist each other under the collective weight of the pile. 

Now I'm scared this moto frame is bent.  The bike seemed like it rode pretty straight and true; I took it up to 65mph on some straights.  I can't really feel out the tracking too precisely because I still have the toasted stock headset bearings in the frame, I haven't put in the All Balls kit yet. 

[geoluv]

I received my Euro bars in the mail.  I did not anticipate the inner diameter of the aluminum bars to be so narrow.  I should have ordered steel bars.  I could have ordered bars from a 350 or 360 too and they would be pre-drilled perfectly.  I want a clean look so I decided to go internal anyway.  I had to drill out the bars, that was a huge pain because I did not have drill bits wide enough.  You need a 1/2" drill bit pretty much.  The wires barely cleared and getting the left wire bundle through the bars was one of the most difficult things I have ever done in my life.  I worked it through though, it took a lot of force.  I am slightly concerned I may have damaged the wires from all the force I had to use.

I got it all wired back up as best as I could.  The picture below is of three wires that I can not seem to find the correct connection for.  I have the diagram but the colors of a lot of my wires are faded, and I am also color blind.  If someone can simply tell me what wires those are then I can connect them.  The high been works now but not the normal low beam.  Both didn't work before I pulled and reattached the wires.  Seems like the switch might need a rebuild because if I fiddle with the switch the high been with flicker/cut out.  It stays on fine if i don't fiddle with it so i consider it safe to ride with.  The blinkers both come on if I flip the switch over but they don't blink, they just stay static.  I am pretty happy about the light because now I can work on the bike and take it for test rides at night, not just the day.  It looks super trick with the black Euro bars with the wires internal routed. 

I have another MC but I really want to rebuild the stock one.  Does anyone know a trick for getting the c-clip out of the master cylinder?  Most normal pin spanners aren't long and thin enough to get into the caliper.  Mine MC is pretty rusted up to.  What is the key for getting out the ring clip that is in front of the c-clip also?

I am going to check alignment of the frame today, pretty concerned that the frame or swing arm or something is bent.  When I have the chain properly tightened and the wheel at the correct marks it just seems so off to me.  Any advise on checking swing arm and/or frame alignment is greatly appreciated. 

Also pretty concerned that my chain, although still within spec, has same seized rollers.  Is there a trick for breaking them free?  I was just going to grind up an old set of small pliers into a shape specifically for rotating them while I hold the plate to break them free, is there an easier way?  Special tool someone already makes?

And now some pics, the Orange K0 at the bottom is just a random one I saw on the street in Chelsea.  It was nearly mint. 

[calj737]

The light green is your Horn wire. The Grey wire is your turn signal relay wire, which explains why your blinkers don't blink. I can't tell what color the red wire has as a stripe, is it white?

[geoluv]

I forget what color it was exactly but i found its match.  Got everything wired up correctly.  Horn works.  Lights blink and beep (right side slower than the left).  High been works.  But low been doesn't seem to work.  When I flick on the lights the front two indicator lights turn on and the rear light turns on but nothing else.  The headlight doesn't turn on and neither do the rear two indicator lights (are the rear indicators supposed to turn on?).  When I turn high beam on it comes on correctly and the indicator light on the bars comes on correctly.  I have a fresh bulb I am testing with so I know it is not the bulb. 

[calj737]

Does your handlebar switch have an ON/OFF for the headlight? If so, that may be your issue. The headlight is powered by a fuse, and the wire color for it should be WHITE. There is a Red/Brown stripe wire on some years that leads to the left side handlebar switch that brings power to the head light, jumped to White on LO, and to BLUE on HI. Is that the spare wire in your prior picture?

The front indicators on sounds like they are operating in "running light" mode, again a feature of some years, some models. The headlight and running lights should extinguish when the electric start button is activated to reduce the draw on the battery.

[geoluv]

^ would the running light feature turn on the rear indicators too? 

the spare wire we could not identify earlier was red with brown stripe I'm pretty sure.  all three of those wires found their matches though, and there are no un-connected wires in the headlight at the moment. 

What 11.5" (290mm) shocks do you guys like?  The stock bouncers are 12.5".  I want to go down an inch, being as how I am "inseam challenged."  I've got my eyes on those Forzas on 4 into 1. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forsa-Performance-Black-Chrome-Shorty-Shocks-Eye-to-Clevis-292mm-11-5-/172279330520?hash=item281ca5f6d8:g:BmoAAOSwLVZV34qW&vxp=mtr

4 into 1 and a few other eBay sellers have some no name shocks that seem equal in quality to the Forzas, just non-progressive and different color combos.  Also I like the Forzas because they have the spring guard and I will be riding with a rider sometimes.  There do not seem to be a lot of options in the "budget" category for rear shocks with a clevis end that are 11.5" long.  I weigh about 140lbs soaking wet though so I don't want my shocks to be too stiff, my back isn't what it use to be. 

Would these cheap Chinese air shocks from eBay work? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280mm-Eye-to-Clevis-Pair-motorbike-Motorcycle-Air-Shock-Absorbers-Scooter-/252437319936?hash=item3ac66fd100:g:Z-MAAOSwjXRXbe3U&vxp=mtr

Eventually after I get the motor all tuned out and running tip top I will buy custom shocks but for now I just need something cheap that will lower me a tad.  I wish Drag Specialties made a shock with a clevis end, they make a perfect 11.5" shock but it's for Harley's. 

[calj737]

I don't believe the rear indicators are operational in running light mode.

[Retro Rocket]

Forget the cheap shocks mate, spend a little more and get something that works... Ikon {Koni} or Hagons would be a good start, even second hand they are better than the 2 offerings you posted... I'm not much heavier than you {150} and love the Ikons , adjustable for rebound and damping and fully rebuildable....

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Forget the cheap shocks mate, spend a little more and get something that works... Ikon {Koni} or Hagons would be a good start, even second hand they are better than the 2 offerings you posted... I'm not much heavier than you {150} and love the Ikons , adjustable for rebound and damping and fully rebuildable....

+1

Cheap shocks = lousy ride

[540nova]

I have 11.5" shocks with a clevis end I'd sell. Brand new. PM me.


1974 CB450, 2006 CBR1000RR

[Tews19]

Cal is correct in regard to rear running lights. There is none on your 550 rear lighta

[geoluv]

I am about to go back out to work on the bike some more.  Im going to try to install the All Balls headset.  I discovered an oil leak I think so I need to track that down.  Going to properly check the alignment of the frame. Double check the measurements of the rear shocks.  Try very hard to get the c clip out of the master cylinder.  I really need to get the MC rebuilt badly since I learned 4 into 1 has GP levers for dirt cheap.  Is there a place to get just the rubber for the MC, and not that whole $30 kit from 4 into 1 that has all that stuff I don't need?  I need to adjust the clutch, too much slack in the cable, the barrel adjuster is dialed almost all the way out. How hard is the clutch suppose to feel on these things?  It feels pretty decent as it is but like I said I have to fiddle with it to get the slack out of the cable.  The alignment marks on the clutch actuator/engine case aren't really lined up but like I said the clutch feels ok so I don't know what is up with the cable tension or the marks.  I need to figure out why carb 4 leaks.  Wet sand inside of gas tank, there is a ton of rust in there and I feel like the visofilter isn't helping because I still find rust bits in the carbs.  I am going to try to check timing too.  I am going to try to clean some of the connections in the electrics tray too and get the right blinker blinking at the same rate as the left.  I am going to try to clean out the alternator too. 

Anything else I should do while I am out there?  I am going to try to lay out all my airbox parts and see whats missing.  I would just buy an entire complete airbox if I could find one. 

[calj737]

You don't wetsand the tank internally, just use a chemical. Distilled vinegar, Metal Rescue, "The Works" toilet cleaner, electrolysis, etc.

Buy a replacement master cylinder for $40 from David Silver Spares. Works perfectly and less money than hassle trying to rebuild your MC

[geoluv]

^ Too late, already wet sanded the inside of the gas tank.  They way you do it is with equal parts play sand and distilled water inside the tank, duct tape the holes closed and shake the crap out of it for about 20 minutes.  My tank was very rusty so I did about 40 min.  It is a LOT of work.  It is a great upper body workout too, another reason I did it.  It is also very cheap; all you need is a gallon of distilled water and a small bag of hermit crab sand.  It is also the fastest way to de-rust a tank that I found, all other methods are passive and take a day or two.  The key is making absolutely sure you rinse out every last grain of sand, it takes almost as long as the shaking part, and then getting it perfectly dry so more rust doesn't form.  I do not know where my dad's charger is so I could no do electrolysis.

It got 95% of the rust out, not 100% but most.  I am going to get the rest with electrolysis some day before I seal it.  But for now it's a lot better than it was.  Between the wet sanding and the viso filters my carbs should stay clean now. 

I also checked alignment with string and jack stands, seemed pretty spot on to me.  I'm pretty sure the bike has never been layed down so it is straight enough I guess. 





My brother had the big boy welders on the back of his work rig today, but I'm not ready to chop the frame up yet.  You can't see it in the pic because I uploaded the medium quality pics instead of the large ones but there is a 4 point baby buck in the background. 

[geoluv]

A funny thing happened today to me also: I walk into my dads house in Hunterdon County NJ after driving 1.5 hours from Brooklyn.  He says "I saw a Honda twin for sale on River Rd on the PA side a little south from the Milford, NJ bridge."  He lives right next to the Delaware River.  I start my 550 first kick and ride down there, about a 5 minute ride.  I see it and slowly pull up to it, it's a cb175 in rough shape but the sign says it's got a clean PA title and all the parts.  All that bike would have needed was a new seat cover and a good scrub/lube and maybe a few rubber bits.  Sign said $600.  All that means nothing because as I stop I see two guys walk up to the bike, say a few words, then shake hands for a final sale price of $400.  I lost out big time.  5 minutes earlier and it would have been mine.  It was only a 175 so I didn't feel like trying to outbid the other guy.  If it was a 350 or 360 for the same price in the same condition I would have definitely tried to snake it from the other dude by bidding more, even after they shook (the deal ain't over until cash has been exchanged and the item is in the new owners hands).  It would have been a perfect city bike for me. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You should spay the inside with WD40 or some other rust preventative or you will get additional flash rust quickly.