Author Topic: Need some help trying to start bike with suspected frigged kill switch (Read 21096 times)

b1jackson · « **Reply #100 on:** July 23, 2016, 03:27:22 AM »

Yes, sorry for making your head hurt. Understandably so!

I had my black meter probe on the black/white wire and not the neg on the battery. So now that I've had a good nights sleep!.......

Ok...think we are getting somewhere. Black switch wire plugged into hub, black meter probe on battery "-", key turned on, kill set to off and testing with red probe on black/white switch wire = 0 volts. Switch kill to run and voltage = 10.89. The battery is fully charged and reading 12 so unsure if this slight drop is an issue if it's a normal loss in the circuit to lights, etc when the key is on.

scottly · « **Reply #101 on:** July 23, 2016, 02:23:38 PM »

That's too much of a voltage drop. Was this measured with the black/white wire disconnected? Measure the voltage at the hub with the key switch on. The black wire in the middle of the hub looks like it may have gotten hot? Is this the wire that feeds the hub from the harness?

b1jackson · « **Reply #102 on:** July 23, 2016, 05:30:45 PM »

Yes, this was measured at the black/white wire with it disconnected. Voltage at the hub right on the black wire is the same 10.89. I don't think the black wire has gotten hot but there was a small fray in the casing that I've since liquid taped. And yes, this is the feed wire to the hub from the harness.

scottly · « **Reply #103 on:** July 23, 2016, 05:53:59 PM »

What is the exact voltage at the battery with the key on, when you are reading 10.89 at the hub?

b1jackson · « **Reply #104 on:** July 23, 2016, 06:05:09 PM »

12volts at the battery with key off

11.62 volts at the battery with the key in the on position.

scottly · « **Reply #105 on:** July 23, 2016, 06:10:34 PM »

Ok, that's not quite as bad of a drop. Your battery needs to be charged though. With the black/white switch wire connected to the black/white harness wire, what is the voltage with the key on and kill set to run? Does it blow the fuse?

b1jackson · « **Reply #106 on:** July 24, 2016, 12:28:53 PM »

Ok. Battery was fresh off a charge.

Measures 13.08v at the battery and 12.12v at the battery with key on.

11.39v at black/white wire with kill at run.....0v with kill on

11.46v at black wire in hub. Turned key off, plugged in black/white wire. Turned key back on and.....

Yep. Blew fuse.

b1jackson · « **Reply #107 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:03:22 PM »

As a follow up I unplugged the black and white at the coils to make sure it wasn't the short run from where the b/w switch wire enters the harness causing the fuse blow but still no luck. As soon as I plug in the black/white coming from each coil she pops the fuse.

Took the coils off to make sure no wires were hitting the frame. All wires associated with the coil are new actually and have good connections as the PO put in new coils when the electronic ignition went in. I do still have the spare original coils.

scottly · « **Reply #108 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:34:09 PM »

Can you post pics of the coils and how they're wired? Do you also have the original points plate and advancer? Did this problem first start when the PO installed the new ignition?

b1jackson · « **Reply #109 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:46:41 PM »

No. He ran the bike no problem. He swapped in the ignition just to modernize it and ditch points for simplicity. Yes, I have them but oh man...I don't really want to put them back it when I know it ran with this setup

scottly · « **Reply #110 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:53:53 PM »

Set your ohm meter to the 200 ohm setting, hold the two meter probes together, and note the reading. This is what your meter reads instead of zero ohms, so this will need to be subtracted from any readings. Measure the resistance between the primary (small wires) on each coil, one at a time.

b1jackson · « **Reply #111 on:** July 24, 2016, 04:58:18 PM »

Not the neatest hook up but connections are tight and new

b1jackson · « **Reply #112 on:** July 24, 2016, 05:04:10 PM »

From left to right I have blue, black white, blue, black white.

I'm testing wire end with one probe and the other probe at the coil terminal? Sorry, I understand the purpose but just not sure which ends to test from

scottly · « **Reply #113 on:** July 24, 2016, 05:30:56 PM »

Disconnect both the blk/wht and blue wires from each coil, one at a time, and place one meter lead on the blk/wht coil wire, and the other meter lead on the blue wire.
Doesn't that ignition tap into the blk/wht wire?

b1jackson · « **Reply #114 on:** July 24, 2016, 05:44:36 PM »

I'm not sure if it taps or not.

So just to be sure, I'm not actually testing the coils themselves? I'm unhooking from the back end of the coils as in the second pic and testing the wires that feed the coil?

Again, thank you for your patience.

scottly · « **Reply #115 on:** July 24, 2016, 05:49:02 PM »

I want you to test the coils themselves, disconnected from the harness. And I think there is a connection to the blk/wht wire somewhere to power the ignition?

b1jackson · « **Reply #116 on:** July 25, 2016, 07:13:26 AM »

OK. I get you now. And I'll also test the original coils which I have in a box for comparison sakes. Stay tuned!

b1jackson · « **Reply #117 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:02:21 PM »

Coils unplugged of all connectors and tested at the male terminals on the end. Zero ohms

scottly · « **Reply #118 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:23:55 PM »

Now check the original coils, exactly the same way, and post your readings.

b1jackson · « **Reply #119 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:37:02 PM »

Quote from: b1jackson on July 24, 2016, 05:04:10 PM

From left to right I have blue, black white, blue, black white.

Yes, the originals on the bench tested the same at 0 ohms. Just for kicks, I switched the wires of the above pattern on each coil. Plugged the black/white coil feed wires back into the harness, turned the key.....No fuse blow! Lights all still work too.

scottly · « **Reply #120 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:40:49 PM »

If the stock coils measured zero ohms, you are doing it wrong.

b1jackson · « **Reply #121 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:43:16 PM »

I'm starting to doubt myself! Am I not just sticking a probe on two wires?

scottly · « **Reply #122 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:46:14 PM »

Is your meter set to the 200 ohm setting? It's the position on the dial next to the diode test setting. (The diode symbol looks like -|<- )

b1jackson · « **Reply #123 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:47:57 PM »

b1jackson · « **Reply #124 on:** July 25, 2016, 03:50:32 PM »

Crap. 200 k! I want the 6 o'clock position on my meter . Duh

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Author Topic: Need some help trying to start bike with suspected frigged kill switch (Read 21096 times)