Topic: lacing a wheel

[squirley]

going to bump this one to the top to see if anyone has any quick info. Thanks

[tsflstb]

It sure looks like you're lacing it correctly.  Here's a couple of pictures of my rear wheel to compare.  It's 36 hole, but the pattern should be the same.  I had roughly the same amount sticking through the rim on the inners and outers.

If they had some issues with the spokes themselves, you still might not have the right bend on the outers.  It kind of sounds like it needs more of an angle on it.  Sorry to hear about their customer service.  I ended up having to talk with the owner about getting the wrong parts sent to me several times.  Their tech guy and wheel builder (Angel) is great if you can get to him directly.




edit...
Just saw your other post about in the project thread about the spokes too. 

Man, hate to say this but I think they got it wrong, so it wouldn't surprise me if you have problems with the rear wheel too.  If you can get the spokes torqued and trued without running out of thread on your front wheel you should be OK.  I had about 1/4" after I torqued the crap out of mine.  Hit it with the angle grinder afterwards.

Do you know what type of hub that rear rim was orignally mated to?  If it's not drilled specifically for yours the spoke hole angle may be off.  I'm not sure what Harley hubs look like (diameter, width, was it conical?).  There's only so much that custom spokes can compensate for there.

[squirley]

Thanks for those pics tsflstb, it appears to be the same way I did it.  I will start tightening them down and see if I can true it.

[squirley]

Does anyone see a problem with the lacing pattern here.  Am I crossing enough spokes? The spokes are about 1/2" too long and I can't figure out if I laced it incorrectly, or the spokes were made too long. Thanks in advance

[merc2dogs]

seems to me the spokes should alternate sides on the hub flange, one with the 'button' inside the hub, and the next with it outside. it will allow you to lay the spokes down a bit flatter, get one more crossing in and should burn up that extra length.

 ken.

[squirley]

I should have clarified what type of wheel you are looking at.  This is a harley narrow glide hub, so all spokes are inners. 
I don't think that I am crossing enough spokes.  I guess it is time to tear it down and relace after work.

[MJL]

I've read several times about people that lace rims, and others that want to fit a bigger tire on their current rim.  Couldn't one buy a wider shell and relace with that?  Where could one find different sized shells?  If one did this and kept tire sizes similar, would it handle the same?

[rhinoracer]

Yes, you have to match the drilling on the rim to the lacing pattern so it's best to buy a blank and have it drilled to your hub.

[MCRider]

I've read several times about people that lace rims, and others that want to fit a bigger tire on their current rim.  Couldn't one buy a wider shell and replace with that?  Where could one find different sized shells?  If one did this and kept tire sizes similar, would it handle the same?

If by "shell" you mean rim, they are readily available from numerous sources. I've never heard the use of "shell" before. I'm getting one from EastCoastWheel.com, a 3.5 x 17. Have gotten several from Buchanan's in California over the years.

Wider rims will affect handling as they spread the tire, even if its the same size as stock, so depending on its profile...

For me that's the point, to affect handling hopefully to the better. A wider rear may give better left to right roll transition and more ground clearance as the bike will be marginally higher off the ground when leaned over. A wider front may give more straight up and leaned over braking traction, and a different lean in feel.

[cleveland]

If by "shell" you mean rim, they are readily available from numerous sources.

Yep!  I am having a 16x3 rim laced to my CB550 hub as we speak.  It can get pricey, but I think it's worth it.

[James]

The 17 x 3.5 rim from a triumph can be laced to the front honda 550 hub.

[MJL]

Yes I do mean rim. I thought I saw shell used in one of the re-lacing FAQs.

Anyway I put a new Dunlop on the rear and thought that it looked out of place because it's so skinny, and I read a post saying that a wider tire on the stock rim is bad for traction and handling. I was thinking a wider tire on a wider rim would look better and maybe work better.

[cleveland]

Check out paulages bike. 

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=6254.30

[MCRider]

Yes I do mean rim. I thought I saw shell used in one of the re-lacing FAQs.

Anyway I put a new Dunlop on the rear and thought that it looked out of place because it's so skinny, and I read a post saying that a wider tire on the stock rim is bad for traction and handling. I was thinking a wider tire on a wider rim would look better and maybe work better.

Funny about that "shell" thing, never heard the term that way.

Yes putting a wider (too wide) tire on a stock rim leads to bad handling and worse, unsafe condition. A wider rim matched to appropriate width tire is better looking and just plain better.

1970s tire/rim technology far behind todays. I'm looking to use a 130 or 140 with a 70 or 80% sidewall on a 3.5 x 17" rim in a K2 swingarm. Should be a good combo. The smaller tire carcass (than lets say the popular 5.1 x 16") is lighter (better handling and ride comfort from less unsprung weight) and looks better to my eye. BUT: to each their own as far as how they want it to look.

I have a rolling chasis 76 CB750F with a 3.0 x 18" Akront rim from Buchanan's with a 130/80 to look at, good but its not quite "there".  FYI: That combo on the CB750F won't allow a piece of paper between the tire and brake stay.

[ColinMc]

Ok so I've researched this and everyone seems to say that CB750A spokes will work...but where on earth can I get this? I am looking to do this as cheaply as possible since i'll be painting the spokes anyways...so Buchanan is a last resort lol.

Oh so unless the subject is confusing, i'm lazing a 17" GL1000 DID rear rim to my stock 1976 CB750K rear hub. I did the GL1000 front end swap so i want the rear rim to match. So any input or previous experience would be much appreciated. I need to sort this out before ordering tires so I can make sure this is reasonable to do.

Thanks,
Colin

[736cc]

 Honda sell new spokes and nipples, order for 77/78k  or hondamatic 750 since you're going 17 inch

[ColinMc]

So the 77/78k were also 17" rear rims?! Lol, you think i would have figured that out...but there are so many freaken threads about aftermarket rims, sizes, brands...bah! I'll have to give the dealer a ring and see what the damage is gonna be lol. Thanks!

[Geeto67]

the 77-78K uses a steel 17" rear rim. the 76-77 hondamatic uses the exact same aluminum DID rim that was on the GL1000 laced to a K bike honda hub.

In the old days (being the 90's for me) I used to buy cheap hondamatics, swap rims on my K bikes, and then sell the hondamatic for what I paid ---> ended up with free alloy rims. I stopped doing this when I started bending the alloy rims on crappy NYC streets.

[ColinMc]

Lol, well I can order them...but a set from Buchanan is about the same price and stainless lol. Guess i'm probably going with Buchanan. Unless someone has a set laying around?  

It's weird the CB750A spokes are 5 bucks a pop, and the 78CB70K spokes are 2.50 a piece...aren't they the same spokes?!

[Geeto67]

Lol, well I can order them...but a set from Buchanan is about the same price and stainless lol. Guess i'm probably going with Buchanan. Unless someone has a set laying around?  

It's weird the CB750A spokes are 5 bucks a pop, and the 78CB70K spokes are 2.50 a piece...aren't they the same spokes?!

I would check the part number with honda on that to be sure but off the top of my head I am going to say no, just because of the difference in the rims despite both being 17"

[ColinMc]

So since the CB750A was the one with the DID aluminum rim, i'm guessing I should go with those spokes?

[Geeto67]

So since the CB750A was the one with the DID aluminum rim, i'm guessing I should go with those spokes?

yup. Make sure you call buchannan's before or plunk your money down. They have done this several times and have way more info than what is just on their website.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

You can buy a CB750A parts bike for what Buchanan will charge.  Not that I am slamming Buchanan, it is just Hondamatics are so cheap when not running.

[ColinMc]

Ok so it's either 120 for a set of spokes from Buchanan...or a fellow member PM'ed me with some cheaper spokes that were meant for a 77 CB750 that he was told should work for the exact same thing i'm doing. I'm conflicted as to what to do.

Do the 77+ cb750's have the same hub style as the earlier bikes? Just with a 17" rim instead in the back? So I guess what i'm asking is, are the later CB750 spokes in fact the same as the supposed Hondamatic ones that are "guaranteed" to fit? If anyone knows this for sure please let me know...In talking with Buchanan they said they'd just make slightly shorter versions of the stock CB750K6 spokes for me. I felt weird asking them if the CB750 spokes from 77-78 were the same as the hondamatics since that would mean I def wouldn't buy from them lol.

[eurban]

The dimensions and hole pattern are identical between the steel 17" steel DID rims used on the 77/78K bikes and the  17" alloy DID rims used on the spoked hondamatics and the GL1000s. Also, the auto's rear hub is identical to the 77/78k hubs. I cannot tell you for sure if there are significant differences in 76 and earlier hubs vs the later hubs . . . .Basically, IF the auto's spokes are a perfect fit then the 77/78k spokes would be as well.  It is possible that Honda used different cupped washers or nipples when they went to alloy from steel but I could not find (I looked long and hard) any difference between the spokes that were on my original 78K rear wheel and the spokes on the auto rear that I dissasembled.  Go with the Buchannon stuff if you can afford it, very nice product.  Tell Buchannons that you are using an alloy rim and they will tell you if any difference in the nipple / washer is recommended.  . .Don't try and polish out scratches on the alloy DID rims BTW; they are annodized and you will doom yourself to days of work if you start down this route!