Topic: 1971 CL350 Craigslist find

[Scott S]

 Also hit the surface rust on the seat pan with a wire brush and shot it with some rust treatment. The pan is solid and the padding good, but the aftermarket seat cover is too......smooth...and puffy. Maybe I'll eventually recover it with a factory style seamed cover.

[MoMo]

There  should be a nut and bolt on the left carb that pins the choke linkage in place once it is aligned. I am surprised the diaphragms are in good condition, usually dry rotted and cracked...Larry

[CycleRanger]

I could also use the factory settings and jet sizes for these carbs if anyone has them. 1971 CL350 K3 with 3D carbs and engine # CL350E-3104283.

And ye shall receive..
If you have trouble reading any of that let me know.

[Scott S]

 Thanks Cycleranger. After I posted that, I found a similar chart on the Honda Twins site. I used the 3-D carb settings, but what's confusing me is the engine number. Mine is CL350E-3104283. Even if I leave off the 3, that gives me an earlier engine number than what's listed for the 3-D carbs.
 Their chart lists 1 turn for mixture screw and 26mm float height. The float heights vary widely. Is 26mm correct for the 3-D carbs?

[calj737]

Scott - Send that tank to me. I'll fix it for you, better than new.

[CycleRanger]

Thanks Cycleranger. After I posted that, I found a similar chart on the Honda Twins site. I used the 3-D carb settings, but what's confusing me is the engine number. Mine is CL350E-3104283. Even if I leave off the 3, that gives me an earlier engine number than what's listed for the 3-D carbs.
 Their chart lists 1 turn for mixture screw and 26mm float height. The float heights vary widely. Is 26mm correct for the 3-D carbs?

You mean this chart? 
Looking at the CB/CL350 shop manual in the carburetor section it just "refer to carburetor manual" which I don't have.  Hmm. Need to find that.
Anyway, if it were me I would just use the 3D settings and not worry about the engine number.  Who knows if those carbs are original to the bike.

[grcamna2]

I set my 722A stock carbs. on my CB350K4 to 26mm float height(stock height) and she was 'Golden' 

[Scott S]

 I used 26mm and 1 turn out from seated on the mixture screw. I have one carb done, just waiting on the O-rings for the other carb. I also synced the butterflies and fixed that choke issue, too.

 What about the big 63.5 x 2 O-ring behind the "oil filter" cover? Should those be changed every time you clean the slinger trap? I haven't gotten that far yet, but want to have parts on hand if I need to replace them.

[grcamna2]

I used 26mm and 1 turn out from seated on the mixture screw. I have one carb done, just waiting on the O-rings for the other carb. I also synced the butterflies and fixed that choke issue, too.

 What about the big 63.5 x 2 O-ring behind the "oil filter" cover? Should those be changed every time you clean the slinger trap? I haven't gotten that far yet, but want to have parts on hand if I need to replace them.

That large dia. skinny o-ring that seals the round cover(w/ the 3 screws) for access to the oil 'slinger' filter w/o removing the full clutch/engine side cover? I never needed to replace it yet when cleaning that oil slinger,the orig. one held up fine for me..

[Scott S]

 Yeah, that's the one. Guess I'll hold off on ordering that.

[grcamna2]

Yeah, that's the one. Guess I'll hold off on ordering that.

You should be good w/ the originals if the rest of the engine has been sealed.When you do finally replace them that cover has 2) of those and there is a different one that goes on the pressure-cover to the oil slinger/filter to keep it sealed.When you have to remove either engine cover(clutch,stator,etc.)it's a good idea to order a Vesrah complete gasket set for the 350 twin,all those o-rings for the filter are included along w/ every other gasket for less than $50.
They're very reasonable because there are so many 350 twins w/ lots of parts floating around for small $;don't get china-gaskets though..

[Scott S]

 "You might lose a couple of ounces of oil when you remove the stator cover" they said.....



 I'll admit, I never checked the oil level after getting the bike. The stuff on the floor was very thin and smelled of gas, so the carb(s) and/or petcock had probably been leaking by. Oh, well...I was going to change the oil anyway... What a mess, though.
 I did manage to get the valves adjusted (one exhaust valve loose, the other really tight), removed and checked/cleaned/lubed the advance assembly, and adjusted the cam chain. I also squirted a little oil on the rockers/valve tops and down the spark plug holes, for when the day comes that I fire her back up.

[Scott S]

I have the missing exhaust bracket on the way. I checked dealer inventory nationwide and nobody had one, so I grabbed this NOS one out of Canada on eBay.



I needed to get the heat shield off to install it and I wanted to clean up the exhaust anyway. This bolt was a booger.



 I had to grind down a 10mm socket to get it loose.

[Scott S]

 I'm really stoked at the condition of the exhaust, though. It's extremely solid with no rust through or soft spots anywhere. Only the very undersides of the mufflers show some flaking chrome.
 I polished everything with Windex and 0000 steel wool, followed by chrome polish and 0000 steel wool. Any bare areas were cleaned up and hit with rust converter. The plans for this bike don't include a full, proper resto, so the pipes will probably end up being the nicest part on the bike!

[grcamna2]

The exhaust came out nice.

[Scott S]

 The center stand showed up today so I got it cleaned up, painted and installed. I then took the opportunity to get the rear wheel off and see what's binding up in the rear brake.



 I was pleasantly surprised to find that everything back there is in excellent shape! Wheel bearings are good. The shoes are genuine Honda with a cross hatch rain groove. Both them and the friction surface have tons of life left. I'll clean it all up and grease what needs to be greased, but I'm a rear tire/tube and a chain from putting that all back together.

 Turns out that the rear brake pedal is what was binding up. I loosened the 19mm bolt and everything freed up. I looked through the FSM but didn't see a torque spec for that bolt. If I tighten it too much, the foot pedal binds up. But if I leave it loose enough to function, there's a bit of axial or side to side play on the foot pedal. Is that normal? Should I remove that bolt and grease it? It works perfectly as long as I don't snug up that bolt.

[grcamna2]

Scott,
I'd remove that pivot bolt for your rear brake pedal along with the sleeve bearing inside the pedal itself which might have a few burrs on it;you could remove the whole pedal assm. to get at it right since you have the rear wheel off anyway.

[CycleRanger]

Scott,
I'd remove that pivot bolt for your rear brake pedal along with the sleeve bearing inside the pedal itself which might have a few burrs on it;you could remove the whole pedal assm. to get at it right since you have the rear wheel off anyway.

May as well pull the swingarm too and at least clean out the 40 year old grease and re-lube it.

[Scott S]

 Pulled the bolt and it's bent. I cleaned it up and lubed it with some white lithium grease. I can get it within a quarter turn from fully tight before it locks up. Guess I'll see if I can track one down.

 **EDIT** Found one for $12 shipped and it's on the way. Cheap way to fix the brakes!

[Scott S]

 Got all the gunk and grime cleaned off the rear wheel. It shined up nicely.

[Scott S]

 Seriously, dude? You couldn't just unplug the wires?



 Then again, this is the guy that ruined a perfectly good set of controls but cutting the wires as short as possible INSIDE the controls. These are still attached inside the headlight bucket. (Well, they were when the picture was taken. Not anymore.)

[Scott S]

 Got the rear fender all cleaned up, soldered the tail light wires back together and got it attached to the fender. I started mounting it on the bike and then it occured to me...do the rear turn signals mount behind these bolts?



 And where do these ground wires attach?

[Scott S]

 I really don't like the look of the seat with this seat cover on it. It's too round and puffy.



But once I got the fender mounted it doesn't look as bad. I guess I'll clean it up and use it for now. The padding is very soft, though....I sink down nearly to the pan. I'll still eventually have it padded and covered with a stock style cover.

[CycleRanger]

Got the rear fender all cleaned up, soldered the tail light wires back together and got it attached to the fender. I started mounting it on the bike and then it occured to me...do the rear turn signals mount behind these bolts?
 And where do these ground wires attach?

Yep, there are small brackets that go there to hold the signals. Those are the grounds for the signals.
Those cut wires are lame! wtf indeed.
I haven't gotten to working on my CL350 yet but I did notice one of the rear signal mounts is welded to the frame.. 
You just never know with an old bike.

[grcamna2]

Scott,
There's a couple oem stock special size large round rubber grommets that you'll need when you re-attach the rear signal light brackets to those large rear fender top mount bolts,I hope the PO didn't toss those out.