Topic: That 20 dollar 1974 cb750 four. Code named "Project Jackie"

[Llamasloth007]

Hey guys. If you are coming over from my first post here is my project thread and let's start with an update. I paid 20 bucks for her. Yes that's right. Ok so now that that's out of the way.
I just got my tank back from my roommate. He works at TFT a huge aluminum manufacturing company of firefighter accessories. I had him "Hotzie" my gas tank (that's what he called it). It's like SUPER HOT water. He did it about 15 time he said. (Ruined my rubber gasket on the cap but no biggie I needed a new one anyways) Needless to say I went from a gas tank that looked un repairable to almost looking BRAND NEW! I'm so excited. I thought this was going to be a HUGE process. I'm going to run some gas through it and shake it up. Then I have Metal Rescue I'm going to let it soak in. Then I have a thing called Dry Coat that coats metal to prevent rust coming back for a year. Finally I'm going to rebuild the Petcock. It's got some funny funky stuff in there. Any suggestions on a rebuild kit would be awesome. So here's some updated photos of the tank I JUST got back. Will post after fully cleaning too.

[Davez134]

Looking good so far. I would use Honda parts for petcock rebuild if possible. I believe the gaskets are still available. Is your friends company task force tips?

[Tews19]

Hotzie?  Like a radiator shop thing? Is the paint damaged?

[Llamasloth007]

Yes it is Task Force Tips. And I'm not sure what the Hotzie is but it sounds like what you are asking about. And no the paint isn't damaged. I don't think he would have suggested I do that if he thought it would harm the paint. So it turned out better than expected.

[Tews19]

This good the paint was not damaged.

[calj737]

After the Metal Reacue you probably don't need the Dry Coat. And if it only lasts a year, I'd avoid it anyway.

[Llamasloth007]

The dry coat is just like a spray on thing to prevent it from flash rusting over instead of using oil to coat the metal. I've never used it but figured it wouldn't hurt. Not sure how long my tank is going to set empty before I put it back on. Just a preventative.

[calj737]

Better figure out how it reacts to ethanol-based fuel or you may be rebuilding your petcock again.

[Llamasloth007]

Oh hey guys! I've been MIA for awhile but good news! I'm DRIVING HER! Rebuild the master cylinder (not the right way FYI doh!) so I took one I had laying around from my other Honda project. Put new brake hoses and lines on up front and BAMO! Front brakes work. Aired up the tires(risky I know). And took her for a spin! I cleaned the carbs (soaked in simple Green for two days. Then about 4 cans of carb cleaner and 3 tooth brushes lol) and I left all the originals jets and stuff in them. Didn't adjust one screw.  I have a rebuild kit, but it was running when it was parked 30 years ago. Odds are it'll run again just needs cleaning. And I was right.  I put everything back together and she LIVES! But doesn't want to stay idling but she runs as long as I keep it over 1k. (I knew it wouldn't be perfect) I'm trying to put a few miles on her so all her seals and what not can start swelling back up sealing and get the motor used to being ran. Not sitting.

She's still bone stock except for the master cylinder (gonna fix the original....again)
Any pointers?!?! I'm thinking about getting the carbs synced and having a shop look at it. But then again she runs and rides. What if I just sell her as is?!? Because she's too mint to customize. Oh Lordy lord. Whatever shall I do?

[calj737]

Idle should be set once bike is warm, probably around 1,200RPMs. You could check the fuel level in the carbs using the Clear Tube methodology be sure you're getting all the fuel you need. Also, make sure there's no inline fuel filters as these can introduce air bubbles and constrict the flow of fuel. Really just do the full 3K Service as listed in the manual and she may be right as rain.

[Llamasloth007]

Idle should be set once bike is warm, probably around 1,200RPMs. You could check the fuel level in the carbs using the Clear Tube methodology be sure you're getting all the fuel you need. Also, make sure there's no inline fuel filters as these can introduce air bubbles and constrict the flow of fuel. Really just do the full 3K Service as listed in the manual and she may be right as rain.

I have inline fuel filters for the time being because the take was so rusty i want to run a few full tanks through and get rid of and sediment. I'm not familiar with the clear tube meathod but I'm sure I can search the forum and find my answers. Thanks for the heads up. My dad said use inline filters. And I did lol a guess father doesn't always know best lol

[calj737]

This one does... 

So, your intention to run the rusty tank is wicked counter-productive. Stop now. You'll only suck sediment and debris into your recently cleaned carbs, filters or not.

Remove the tank, drain it, rinse with soapy water. Then use any rust removal product (vinegar, MetalRescue, Toilet Bowl cleaner, electrolysis, etc) and then neutralize that with baking soda mixture. Fill with gas. And remove those inline filters while the tank is off.

[Llamasloth007]

Maybe i didn't say things exactly how I meant them to be interpreted. Thats my mistake.  I cleaned the tank. It's precautionary. I have a previous thread with what I did to clean the tank. It's not rusty. But just in case,  the inline filters are there (temporarily now lol)

[slikwilli420]

Idle should be set once bike is warm, probably around 1,200RPMs. You could check the fuel level in the carbs using the Clear Tube methodology be sure you're getting all the fuel you need. Also, make sure there's no inline fuel filters as these can introduce air bubbles and constrict the flow of fuel. Really just do the full 3K Service as listed in the manual and she may be right as rain.

I never understood this fuel filter thing. If that were the case there would be no fuel filters on any small engine. As long as the pressure of fuel from the tank is sufficient there should be no flow issue.