Author Topic: Alignment Issue after reinstalling front end? (Read 2058 times)

nccb · « **on:** March 06, 2016, 09:16:24 AM »

I'm having an issue with the alignment of my wheel (perhaps) since I have reinstalled the front end after replacing the fork seals. I assumed everything would come back in line once I put the fender and wheel on put the issue is manifesting itself through the brake caliper. It is dragging and causing enough friction that the wheel won't spin even a full rotation. It's either I can't get the rotor far enough over to the right or the caliper swing arm is not pivoting. I can't push the caliper in to make it pivot like I could prior to this and it seems to be at its limit in travel to the right side towards the wheel.

I have taken the wheel off and tried again but have the same issue. I took the caliper off the arm and obviously the wheel spins freely and the pivot arm isn't stuck as it has amble movement both directions. The rotor just seems to be to far to the right. I don't see how to "push" the wheel any further over to the left fork to alleviate the pressure it is causing on the caliper.

Do I have something misaligned or am I overlooking something? I have tried to loosen all the bolts and tighten them to try to shimmy the wheel over a little but it doesn't seem to be working. I have to loosen the caliper swing arm bolts to get the wheel to spin, but then they are so loose I can spin them with my fingers. . .

mystic_1 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2016, 10:37:23 AM »

750?

Axle nut and spacers all installed properly? Nut on the brake side with the hex towards the wheel.

Speedo drive seated correctly on it's drive nubs? If not that'd tend to spread the fork legs.

Got any pictures?

mystic_1

ekpent · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2016, 10:39:46 AM »

Front brake pad not retracting ??

nccb · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2016, 11:36:28 AM »

Everything seems to be in the correct place. Not sure about exact location of speedo drive though. The front bake pad does retract. The problem is I think it's to far over on the wheel side. I took it for a spin as I was able to get the wheel to spin a little more freely. The front brake was just barely applying stopping power. Here are some pics just in case

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

przjohn · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2016, 02:10:37 PM »

This sounds just like the problem you are describing,

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=102388.0;attach=176582;image

mystic_1 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2016, 02:53:59 PM »

Well the axle looks installed correctly in the pics, I do see that the fork end caps are installed backwards* though, although that wouldn't cause this.

There's no gap at the inner brake pad though so yeah the arm needs to pivot more, it looks to me like you could cheat a bit more out of the adjuster before you run out of threads completely, but I'm not sure why you'd need to go that far. Is the inner pad puck seated correctly into the caliper?

mystic_1

*

nccb · « **Reply #6 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:02:02 PM »

Thanks. I had no idea there was a front and back to those. I'll try it out. As for the caliper swing arm, the inner pad is seated correctly. I keep running through what could be causing it to be pushed so far wheelward. I can only thing it has something to do with the wheel install and its pushing the caliper to far inward so it can't pivot any farther

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

flybox1 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:10:40 PM »

your rotor is not parallel to your stationary brake pad caliper half.....look at the pictures above

flybox1 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:14:37 PM »

see the spacing between the red lines...
compare this to the spacing on the arm side....check for a variance.

nccb · « **Reply #9 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:18:48 PM »

Thanks fly box. That's what I'm trying to fix. I can't seem to get it to go over any further. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or haven't done. The caliper arm won't go over to the inside anymore and I can't move the wheel towards the fork direction any more either.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

flybox1 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:24:03 PM »

if you have two straight edges, you can remove both halves of the caliper, leaving just the arm and rotor....compare them to each other.
horizontally and vertically..

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:26:04 PM »

Is your fender attached inboard of the caliper (correct), or did you sandwich it between the caliper bracket and the fork (incorrect)?

nccb · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:27:33 PM »

Quote from: madmtnmotors on March 06, 2016, 03:26:04 PM

Is your fender attached inboard of the caliper (correct), or did you sandwich it between the caliper bracket and the fork (incorrect)?

Yeah it's between the caliper and the fork. . .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

nccb · « **Reply #13 on:** March 06, 2016, 03:52:48 PM »

And that fixed it 8-). Thanks madmtnmotors.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

madmtnmotors · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2016, 05:43:50 PM »

Quote from: nccb on March 06, 2016, 03:52:48 PM

And that fixed it 8-). Thanks madmtnmotors.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked hard at your pictures, but you never caught the fender mount in any of the photos. I was pretty sure, and may have been willing to wager, that it was your problem. I've seen it more than once.

Glad you were able to get it sorted.

WaxhawFive · « **Reply #15 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:04:03 AM »

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I just want to be sure I'm understanding correctly. From the advice above, I believe my fender is in the wrong position, it's sandwiched between the fork leg boss and the caliper bracket. Here's a pic. Furthermore, is the fender bracket (fork brace) supposed to be straight or wavy like mine is?

Scott S · « **Reply #16 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:13:12 AM »

Correct...fender goes inside. Caliper hanger goes next to fork.
There's also an adjustment to center the caliper. The screw with the spring and 10mm lock nut on it.....loosen the lock nut and have someone push down on rear of bike (while on the center stand) so that you can rock the wheel back and forth. Using a long, flat blade screw driver, tighten the screw until caliper drags/seizes on the rotor, then back off until you have just a little drag. Hold screw in that position and tighten lock nut.

WaxhawFive · « **Reply #17 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:31:12 AM »

A few folks have recommended removing the alignment screw/spring as a step to solve a squeaky condition. I removed mine and didn't notice any change in the noise, still very squeaky, like head-turning loud. I'll fix the fender-caliper orientation, put the alignment screw and spring back in place and align, and try again.

WaxhawFive · « **Reply #18 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:32:35 AM »

What about that fender bracket, is it supposed to look wavey like that?

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:34:59 AM »

It is most likely as Scott S describles, the ajustment bolt for the caliper bracket. There is no such thing as caliper swing arm. Sorry for the correction, but I could not let it go.

If that is adjusted properly then it is obviously hanging up someplace else ie. caliper piston not retracting.

Have you ever rebuilt your brakes? It is possible that some debris in the calper is causing it to hang up. I had a similar problem with a master cyclinder. It had a rusted spring binding up the works.

WaxhawFive · « **Reply #20 on:** July 06, 2016, 05:44:11 AM »

The previous owner supposedly rebuild both the MC and the caliper. I suppose I'll eventually do it again myself if nothing else works. I'll get everything in the right place then go from there.

Scott S · « **Reply #21 on:** July 06, 2016, 06:17:52 AM »

Quote from: WaxhawFive on July 06, 2016, 05:32:35 AM

What about that fender bracket, is it supposed to look wavey like that?

Yes, that's where the hard line for the brake hose passes through.

There's a groove in the caliper where an square profile O-ring sits. It's pretty common for crystallized brake fluid to get behind that ring and make it swell out. That prevents the piston from retracting. If adjusting/centering the caliper doesn't fix it, pull the O-ring and clean that groove out really well. You'll need a little pick tool or small flat blade screw driver. And, if it were me, I'd just order a new O-ring to go back in. They're only a few bucks.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 06, 2016, 06:45:00 AM »

Quote from: Scott S on July 06, 2016, 06:17:52 AM

Quote from: WaxhawFive on July 06, 2016, 05:32:35 AM
What about that fender bracket, is it supposed to look wavey like that?

Yes, that's where the hard line for the brake hose passes through.

There's a groove in the caliper where an square profile O-ring sits. It's pretty common for crystallized brake fluid to get behind that ring and make it swell out. That prevents the piston from retracting. If adjusting/centering the caliper doesn't fix it, pull the O-ring and clean that groove out really well. You'll need a little pick tool or small flat blade screw driver. And, if it were me, I'd just order a new O-ring to go back in. They're only a few bucks.

+1

WaxhawFive · « **Reply #23 on:** July 12, 2016, 01:38:09 PM »

Over the weekend I mounted the fender bracket and the caliper bracket in their correct place with the caliper bracket against the fork, and reinstalled the alignment screw & spring. On the ride last night I'm glad to report no more squealing from the front brakes! Thanks guys!

Don R · « **Reply #24 on:** July 12, 2016, 09:29:09 PM »

Thanks for the report, often we never hear if it's resolved. Good job.

News:

Author Topic: Alignment Issue after reinstalling front end? (Read 2058 times)