Author Topic: 1978 CB750 - Re-born a 836cc Wiseco JMR Ported Hot Rod (Read 34533 times)

TomsK8resto · « **Reply #25 on:** August 04, 2016, 05:54:29 PM »

Subscribed. Looks like a great project.

Tom

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #26 on:** August 09, 2016, 04:28:05 AM »

All bolts removed, cases are ready to be split. Anyone have advice for separating the top and bottom? Thanks guys.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #27 on:** August 10, 2016, 04:49:49 AM »

With a little help/advice from buddy Nils (Noblehops)...the cases are split!!! Engine looks freaking great inside.... Couldn't be happier with it. Now I can get all the guys out and start to clean everything before it gets sent for the vapor blast!!!

No strange wear marks or damage anywhekre and the first thing I did was clean off the oil gallery dowel/o-ring and put them in a safe spot... It's coming along, going to look awesome all clean and with those beefy primary chains and cycle X super rods..... More to come.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 25, 2016, 01:38:49 PM »

A couple updated photos... Getting these cases ready to get some Vapor blasting treatment from Nils.... He's an awesome guy, and his work.... Freakin amazing. Check out www.restocycle.com if you've never seen it...

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #29 on:** August 25, 2016, 02:59:54 PM »

Eric,

The finish of the cases (post-blasting) will be better than new. Are you planning to paint or powdercoat your cases?

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #30 on:** August 26, 2016, 11:26:49 AM »

Hey Don, Good to hear from you buddy. Oh... I thought I could just get them vapor blasted and keep them that way..... HMmm. I'll have to ask Nils, unless .... Do you know if they Need to be either painted, powdercoated, or sealed somehow? If so then that's just going to be part of it, I was thinking I could run them with that beautiful somewhat shiny aluminum look.....

Let me know what you think Don, I've never had it done before.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #31 on:** August 26, 2016, 03:35:31 PM »

VB peens the surface too IINM. I think you should be able to just leave it as is and it will look great. I've seen pix of 750 cases and a bunch of Kawi cases that Nils did that look amazing.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #32 on:** August 26, 2016, 09:55:48 PM »

I've heard that the peened surface should hold up without paint or other coatings.

TomsK8resto · « **Reply #33 on:** August 27, 2016, 08:10:27 AM »

Quote from: Ericcb750 on August 26, 2016, 11:26:49 AM

Hey Don, Good to hear from you buddy. Oh... I thought I could just get them vapor blasted and keep them that way..... HMmm. I'll have to ask Nils, unless .... Do you know if they Need to be either painted, powdercoated, or sealed somehow? If so then that's just going to be part of it, I was thinking I could run them with that beautiful somewhat shiny aluminum look.....

Let me know what you think Don, I've never had it done before.

Eric,

Like you said, just ask Nils. I've been to his shop and taken the tour. He is a nice guy and really knows his stuff. You won't be disappointed with his work.

Tom

MRieck · « **Reply #34 on:** August 28, 2016, 02:19:28 PM »

I have seen Nils's work too....top notch stuff.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #35 on:** August 28, 2016, 08:42:11 PM »

Nils will give you the low-down on whether you need any protective finish/coatings after his vapor blasting. His work looks amazing. I wish I had done it on my last engine rebuild!

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 29, 2016, 02:21:46 AM »

Thanks for the help fella's, I really appreciate it. I'll be sure to talk to him about it when it gets done. Trying to remove a stubborn kickstarter (retaining pin?) and definitely looks like something you do not want to break... Done some research so that is where i'm currently at. Need to remove the kickstarter and the shifter cam "detent roller" and then these babies are going on a journey to the West coast, going to get some carbs done and maybe the some side covers too....we'll see but the cases are 100% going.

Good news, talked to Devin at cognito moto on Friday...The last piece of the front end puzzle is coming back from anodizing either today (Monday) or Tomorrow!!!! Once that package arrives I will have literally every single piece to put the GSXR front end together, Top and bottom Triples (50mm offset) , cognito stem with new bearings, Cognito hub (with new bearings and spacers) laced up with Stainless spokes to a non-dimpled Excel rim 18" x 2.5", brand new stainless brake lines, switches, grips..... They even drilled and tapped a hole on the underside of the top triple for my KOSO speedo/tach combo.....

Thanks to Don, I have a beautiful set of GSXR Forks, calipers, and some way cool Galfer wave rotors. I'm hoping this puppy will stop and handle like it's on rails....

I will continue to post updates on this also, once I get the cases done it's going to be time to really get cranking on getting this motor back together...A HUGE THANK YOU to all the guys who have helped me so far along the way....couldn't have gotten anywhere near this far without all you...I really appreciate it. Take care guys. Hope all is well

edwardmorris · « **Reply #37 on:** August 29, 2016, 09:25:58 AM »

Quote from: Ericcb750 on August 29, 2016, 02:21:46 AM

......Trying to remove a stubborn kickstarter (retaining pin?) and definitely looks like something you do not want to break... Done some research so that is where i'm currently at. Need to remove the kickstarter and the shifter cam "detent roller" and then these babies are going on a journey....

For the kickstarter pin, heat+dykes are the best approach, works quite well. What part on the fiche is the detent roller? If its one of those several tiny pieces that are under the shifter cover, then Dino's vid is a good guide (just watch for a couple torque value errors though, maybe he added annotations with corrections by now).

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 29, 2016, 01:45:54 PM »

Hey Rafi, Thanks buddy. Yeah that little pin that holds the kicker in is a stubborn little bugger...ha-ha. Sorry I may be referring the "shifter detent roller" incorrectly. It may be a "shifter Drum" ? It's the part that the grooves are in that moves the shifter forks?

I read somewhere that this piece can be a pain to get back in correctly or something? Nils was nice enough to offer to remove the countershaft bearing in the middle of the case, I can't seem to get at it well with the tools I have and I don't want to damage it.

Looks like the cross point in the end of the "shifter drum" should come out with a few good whacks with the impact? Hey Rafi, if my engine comes out looking half as good as yours I'll be a happy camper. Thanks again for the help, Just those last pieces (Mainly kickstart and the springs that go with it, and the shifter drum....

Then the cases are off to see Mr. Noblehops to get a facelift.... haha.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #39 on:** August 29, 2016, 03:39:15 PM »

Sure thing!

If its the entire shift drum you are trying to remove, then make sure the neutral switch is out first. The drum pulls out freely after that. As for the cross point, DO NOT try removing that screw. I've managed to completely destroy one of these drums trying to remove that. It is completely unnecessary.

During reassembly, all you need to make sure is that the small detent in the drum (where the ball from the neutral switch seats) is lined up properly and you'll be fine.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 30, 2016, 01:13:44 AM »

RAFI!!! YOU JUST SAVED ME SOME SERIOUS PAIN IN THE ARSE!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Thank god I didn't try removing that cross point yet......Complete rookie mistake, I will remove the neutral switch and pop that puppy out in a few minutes.....Seriously I'm super glad you jumped in here and let me know about that because In my mind that cross point had do come out in order to remove it. Good thing because the shifter drum is perfect, has literally no wear in the normal spots (1-2 shift spot).

Sorry but i'm not sure what you mean by "dykes".... Is that a type of tool? I'll do some looking up about it now. That little piece of advice about the shifter drum just not only saved me a huge headache, but also got me a lot closer to getting these cases sent out!!!! Wicked grateful. Thanks buddy!!!

edwardmorris · « **Reply #41 on:** August 30, 2016, 09:44:34 AM »

Happy to help. Dykes (or dikes) is a slang/nickname for basic diagonal cutters, something like this

After applying some heat, you can use these angled pliers to grab the pin and pry it up using the pliers themselves as a fulcrum on the cases. I wish I could explain it better, but it should become obvious when you get to it...

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 30, 2016, 10:37:29 AM »

Quote from: edwardmorris on August 30, 2016, 09:44:34 AM

Happy to help. Dykes (or dikes) is a slang/nickname for basic diagonal cutters, something like this

After applying some heat, you can use these angled pliers to grab the pin and pry it up using the pliers themselves as a fulcrum on the cases. I wish I could explain it better, but it should become obvious when you get to it...

Must be a midwest thing. He is from CT, you're from IN and I'm from MI. They have been dykes all my life. Someone around here calls them side cutters, they get a glassy-eyed look.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 30, 2016, 04:39:00 PM »

Good news, no shifter drums were hurt during the removal of this shifter drum! Can't believe it was that easy. Neutral switch out and shifter drum came out smooth as silk, cross point still intact... Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for the translation and I appreciate the help on the shifter drum... More to come.

MRieck · « **Reply #44 on:** August 30, 2016, 07:15:10 PM »

Should have brought that lower case to my house......that split pin kick starter dowel would be long gone out of there.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 31, 2016, 07:31:25 AM »

Thanks Guys.... ARGHHH Mike, I wish i had brought this up there! This thing is proving to be a bit of a pain. I'll go at it with some heat tonight, sprayed with some WD 40 and tried with a needle nose vise grip....but no go. DOn't want to break the pin I guess but my bigger concern is damaging the case. I know it will come out, Just have to be patient.

YOu guys think a heat gun will be sufficient or should I hit it with a little torch? It's not rusted or corroded or anything which is good , just stuck up in there. Once that pin comes out I can get the whole kicker mechanism out and get the cases and carb bodies/bowls (been thinking about doing some covers too) packaged up all nice-like and send to Mr. Nils.

He said he has a blind bearing remover that will make quick work of removing that countershaft bearing in the middle of the lower case. Removed all the crank bearing shells and marked where they were. I will be getting new ones but these are in great shape.

grcamna2 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 31, 2016, 08:12:34 AM »

subscribed

somesuch · « **Reply #47 on:** August 31, 2016, 08:48:27 AM »

For those of us without a dowel pin puller, I have good luck using the Jacobs chuck of my old DeWalt 18v drill to remove pins like that. Just tighten it up good by hand, and continue twisting it out by hand maybe with some heat. Works great for all those dowel pins/etc. The chuck on the new Milwaukee cordless is not as good, and often slips and mars the pins....so it depends on the chuck.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #48 on:** August 31, 2016, 11:21:04 AM »

Quote from: slikwilli420 on August 30, 2016, 10:37:29 AM

Must be a midwest thing. He is from CT, you're from IN and I'm from MI. They have been dykes all my life. Someone around here calls them side cutters, they get a glassy-eyed look.

hehe, could be! And I know of the glassy-eyed look from when I first asked about it too. As luck would have it, I had one at home that came with a menard's cheap 10 for $10 plier set and did the trick on both my bikes.

Ericcb750 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 31, 2016, 12:19:47 PM »

I'll try hitting it with a little torch later on and see if that little bugger decides to work with me. Be sure to keep you guys posted. Just talked to Mr. Cognito himself (Devin) and the last of my parts should be done in the next couple days. They sent it off to get Anodized black instead of clear by accident. They were awesome at letting me know what had happened and actually cut me another one to make it right....

He's a top notch guy and although some of the stuff is pricey, I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for (most of the time).... His parts are a perfect example.... I'll post up some photos and stuff when they arrive. HOpefully this stupid pin will be out WAY before then.

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Author Topic: 1978 CB750 - Re-born a 836cc Wiseco JMR Ported Hot Rod (Read 34533 times)