Author Topic: clutch  (Read 1843 times)

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Offline tramp

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clutch
« on: November 23, 2006, 06:17:24 am »
thinking about changing my clutch over the winter
i am a ok mechanic
am i biting off more than the average guy can do
i own a 1978 750f
1974 750k

Offline SteveD CB500F

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Re: clutch
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2006, 06:59:43 am »
No problem.

Get a manual and take it step by step.
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Offline joeb

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Re: clutch
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2006, 07:18:49 am »
Yep what Steve said.  Plus take a look at this.   http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/tech.htm   

Go to the clutch section lots of good info I think.

Offline MRieck

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Re: clutch
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2006, 07:20:56 am »
There is one special tool necessary Joe. Other than that it is not difficult at all.
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Offline joeb

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Re: clutch
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2006, 07:28:53 am »
Your right Mike I have one in my tool box . Getting old and forgetfull. ;D

Offline joeb

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Re: clutch
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2006, 07:57:38 am »
Let me expand on my last post most of the info is good, get the proper clutch tool  I would not recommend using a hammer and screwdriver.  But it will give you a general idea of what to do.

Offline burmashave

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Re: clutch
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2006, 08:06:15 am »
Let me expand on my last post most of the info is good, get the proper clutch tool  I would not recommend using a hammer and screwdriver.  But it will give you a general idea of what to do.

Z1 sells a tool, Honda prolly sells it also, or you can make your own.
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Offline Magpie

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Re: clutch
« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2006, 01:08:09 pm »

Offline oldbiker

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Re: clutch
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2006, 02:28:53 am »
If you have enough room on your workbench, as you take parts off, lay them in a straight line so that when you come to reassemble you will know exactly what order to put parts back. I know this seems obvious but it sure helps when you are doing a big strip down.

Offline tramp

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Re: clutch
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2006, 04:17:00 am »
i just checked the parts dealer by me and the clutch material is 100 bucks and i have a clymer manual
1974 750k

Offline eurban

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Re: clutch
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2006, 04:55:37 am »
Your 78s clutch is a bit different than the earlier ones.  I don't know whether the Clymer has the proper breakdown of the later clutch.  Basically the late clutches have a double thick riveted steel plate in the center of the sandwhich and an outermost friction plate with wide tangs.  Assuming that your clutch is properly assembled now, pay close attention as you pull it apart.  Also the clutch center and the pressure plate mesh properly in only two of four possible orientations so when you reassemble make sure that you orient them correctly.  The manuals I have seen typically suggest marking the orientation upon dissassembly.

Offline RRRToolSolutions

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Re: clutch
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2006, 05:04:17 am »
Darn, be careful with that quote. The Honda fibers cost me $17 each x 7, the steels were $6 each, then the tool was nearly $30. I might suggest getting the lock ring/washer that holds the nut too. These above prices are just 20% above dealer cost and no shipping charges. I get good pricing from a friend and local shop owner. I also recommend getting the Honda clutch gasket. It comes with sealer already on the gasket and goes on dry for a leak-free fit - something the Athena and others don't do.

Pay special care to get the inner and outter basket teeth lined-up, go very slowly when tightening those 4 small 6mm bolts on the clutch bearing. Make sure it doesn't bind and that you run each bolt in a turn or 2 at most going in an even pattern. The back-side is a machined surface and the bearing must go in straight or you'll break the post off all too easily. During this last install with the heavy springs, I had to back-off twice because the coils were binding. You'll feel it and be aware of any bolt getting "tight" before the whole bearing gets there. If 1 bolt gets tight before the others, it means there is a bind. Continued tightening of that bolt will result in a broken or stripped post. Take your time and light pressure and you'll be fine. At the end, you'll want 85 in/lbs of torque on those.



Good luck with your project.
Kaws, Hondas, Yamahas, and Suzukis - especially Kaws

Offline joeb

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Re: clutch
« Reply #12 on: November 25, 2006, 06:47:20 am »
If you need I can send you the info my manuel has for the 78 supersport if that helps.

Offline tramp

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Re: clutch
« Reply #13 on: November 25, 2006, 08:28:29 am »
If you need I can send you the info my manuel has for the 78 supersport if that helps.

thanks, any info will help
1974 750k

Offline Patrick

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Re: clutch
« Reply #14 on: November 25, 2006, 09:16:48 am »
I haven't worked on a clutch from a '78, but most of the bike clutches I have redone have a concave washer under the retention nut. Make sure to reorient this washer with the curve going in the right direction or you clutch won't work properly.

Patrick
1970 CB750 K0
1982 VF750S Sabre
1987 VT1100 Shadow
1979 Yamaha XS11
1969 Yamaha DT1B
etc.