Author Topic: IDK Numero Dos - 1975 Honda CB400F (Read 67086 times)

minimo · « **Reply #275 on:** September 09, 2018, 09:44:52 PM »

What is a good method to remove the inlet and exhaust valve guides to replace the (eight) o-rings, 10x1.6

These exhaust valves are press-fit, correct? I imagine a wooden drift or punch would work so as not to mar the valve guide surface?

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MoMo · « **Reply #276 on:** September 10, 2018, 02:42:53 AM »

I'm lazy and believe in leaving well enough alone. If seats in the head and guides are good, O-rings would not be replaced. Good chance seats will have to be recut. There is a special tool to remove guides, it is like a punch, part that is inserted into the guide after heating the head is the size of the guide, the upper part is wider than the part that goes into the guide. Easier description, a punch with a shoulder.

strynboen · « **Reply #277 on:** September 10, 2018, 04:30:51 AM »

yes ...dont thange those...its only id they are veared aut ..or craked..you press them aut...to thange to new....have to heat the head up..and use a hudralik press..vith special Tool..there vill never be leaking ´,,as the parts are pressed together..and seal even vitaut the rubber ring

minimo · « **Reply #278 on:** September 11, 2018, 10:15:50 PM »

I’m reassured to leave these be.
Thank you. I’m moving on.
This rebuild is tightening up.

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MoMo · « **Reply #279 on:** September 12, 2018, 03:16:49 AM »

good choice

minimo · « **Reply #280 on:** September 12, 2018, 09:09:13 PM »

https://www.vintageculturestyle.com/collections/t-shirts/products/honda-wing-vintage-tee?variant=15425549762617

minimo · « **Reply #281 on:** September 13, 2018, 07:54:53 AM »

Fresh rubbers

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #282 on:** September 13, 2018, 08:19:40 AM »

Nobody likes crusty, used prophylactics.

minimo · « **Reply #283 on:** September 13, 2018, 09:55:26 AM »

Lol Agreed!

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minimo · « **Reply #284 on:** September 15, 2018, 10:46:23 AM »

I was experiencing some issues getting the kickstart to engage the clutch with the secondary drive gear. My clutch disc kit came with 7 discs; I found that 6 discs works best as adding 7 (plus adding a metal plate between discs) would pack the assembly too tightly and the kickstart would not budge at all. Perhaps my clutch springs are too weak? A closer look at the parts fiche revealed that my assembly did not have what is referred to as, Honda 90609-333-000 SET-RING, SPECIAL (92MM) that appears to sit at the top of the clutch disc/plate assembly.

What seemed to work out so far was adding a metal clutch plate on top of the 6th disc. This seems to have given it the right height to engage the clutch with the secondary gear drive thus making the engine turn.
Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Adding that metal clutch plate will make metal touch metal and undesired friction would result? Instead, can 2 discs be stacked together or would that be a no-no?
Could this also be that my clutch springs may be too weak for the stack of 7 discs?

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strynboen · « **Reply #285 on:** September 16, 2018, 09:52:33 AM »

id you stack 2 pos 119 side by side..they vill not move..or make vear on anything..just give thikness

minimo · « **Reply #286 on:** September 16, 2018, 12:01:18 PM »

In other words, stacking (2) 119 on top of one another is ok to do to add thickness, correct?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #287 on:** September 16, 2018, 08:41:49 PM »

I don't think stacking two clutch friction discs atop each other works. But, I may learn differently. HondaMan has written recently about clutch packs coming with the wrong thickness of discs causing issues for the 550 (and maybe the 750?) if I recall correctly. 550 and 750 discs are different...

Fwiw

David

minimo · « **Reply #288 on:** September 16, 2018, 09:08:05 PM »

What’s odd is that in the parts fiche it appears that 257 is sandwiched between the last stack of clutch plate and disc, giving the assembly its appropriate height. I never had part 257. I see that it is discontinued. Is it metal or that friction disc material?

I ordered my clutch discs via 4into1 and they were specific to CB400F and it came with 7.

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minimo · « **Reply #289 on:** September 27, 2018, 07:48:06 AM »

I got the bike started up again after a rebuild (new cruzinimage pistons and rings, gaskets, seals, o-rings, cam chain and some other related parts...). Was able to get all of the pipes hot after some carb synch and took it out for a short ride around. Here are some of the issues now:

1) oil is sweating out of what appears to be the engine stud bolts; where the bolts are exposed between the engine fins. Looking at the parts fiche I didn’t see any o-rings that slip over the engine stud bolts but I think I’m mistaken... looking forward to a weekend of fun peeling the engine back again.

Here are some bad shots of the oil sweating (employed the baby powder trick).
Right side

Left side

2) on the short ride around I noticed that there’s a hard rattle or clatter that occurs on load and at higher rpm, say 4000. Could it be the cam chain slapping? I thought I did my adjustments at idle. In fact, I played with adjustments a bit to hear the differences in sounds and I feel like I got it adjusted comfortably enough to ride but this rattle will definitely not do. There also seems to be a loss of power too at the high end.

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minimo · « **Reply #290 on:** September 27, 2018, 08:14:51 AM »

Or, maybe it’s a clutch issue with the rattle? I’ll take it around again and see - pull in clutch to see if sound goes away

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minimo · « **Reply #291 on:** September 27, 2018, 10:17:07 AM »

Or tappets/valves need to be readjusted...
Hoping it’s not the crank rods

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ttr400 · « **Reply #292 on:** September 27, 2018, 01:35:11 PM »

Reference to the clutch parts: 116 123 119 257

On normal disassembly of clutch you won't see these parts as they are secured to part 115 held together with set ring 257.

Kevin

minimo · « **Reply #293 on:** September 27, 2018, 01:48:59 PM »

Thanks, Kevin. Good to know. I do think I have that assembly of weird discs then

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minimo · « **Reply #294 on:** September 28, 2018, 07:37:49 AM »

These (4) large o-rings (# 276). Do these just slip over the cylinder jugs and get press-fit upon assembly of the cylinder to the crank case, or should these o-rings fit into the grooves at the base of the jugs?
I fear that I have jammed them into the base of the jugs, into the groove, thus not making a proper seal?

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strynboen · « **Reply #295 on:** September 28, 2018, 10:05:20 AM »

they only block for oil/kreep/ go op between in the sleeves..and the kooling finn/block..so thgey dont teighten for autgoing oil..think your leek komes aut heiger up..and then leakes Down..normaly the bottom are dry

minimo · « **Reply #296 on:** September 28, 2018, 10:17:53 AM »

Thanks, strynboen. Makes sense that these leaks are coming from higher up. I’ll keep peeling back this onion... so far, what I’m seeing is that it was wet on the shaft of those exposed bolts so I thought maybe that might be the source.

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strynboen · « **Reply #297 on:** September 28, 2018, 10:20:32 AM »

it can be as simpel as a missing...or bad kobber seal..in one of the head bolts..then it leak Down the pin bolts..and komes aut at the bottom..

minimo · « **Reply #298 on:** September 28, 2018, 10:41:27 AM »

I will check that out. Thanks, strynboen.
Any ideas on my rattle at high revs on load?

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strynboen · « **Reply #299 on:** September 28, 2018, 03:01:34 PM »

its not the clutch..it vil be silensed at load..mine does the same..if the cyncro not are perfekt..it vill rattel.had you thanget the bottom thain?crank/clutch drive

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Author Topic: IDK Numero Dos - 1975 Honda CB400F (Read 67086 times)