Wanted to refer back to this image...
That piece between my fingers is a slice of the piston ring, 2nd one down from top, piston #2.
According to the manual, there’s a supposed taper to these rings, specifically that one that snapped on mine:
Curious how that broke so clean and not leaving much of a mark in the cylinder.
Here’s what my replacement looks like (from Cruzin Image, Japan):
With the “R” mark oriented on top, there appears to be a very slight taper from a profile view. Well, fingers are crossed this is the correct side up. This is also how
I thought I had the ring set in the piston groove previously, otherwise I’m not sure how else it could have snapped - unless I did indeed have it flipped.
Meanwhile, ordered some parts. Making an attempt at replacing the whole top end to address a bunch of things like blow by and some stripped threads; I will definitely make a better effort to torque down to spec.
Here’s a shot of the cylinder and head, post hot and soapy bath:
Someone real smart had the genius idea of gluing the gaskets onto these parts. Made for a real not fun and dumb removal process.
I will say that out of ALL of the trials I went through and trying to remove the gaskets, AIRCRAFT Paint Remover (by Klean-Strip, sold here in the States) worked the best. The stuff even cleans up stubborn carbon deposits real well (consider pistons and exhaust passages in head, valves etc)
On this round of engine rebuild #4, I will keep the engine surface bare and not encapsulate it in paint as I’ve done previously. I think coating the engine case traps in some of the heat and makes the engine run hotter than it should.
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