Author Topic: IDK Numero Dos - 1975 Honda CB400F (Read 65662 times)

strynboen · « **Reply #50 on:** November 16, 2016, 02:15:39 AM »

take a multimeter and test for konnektion..the one terminal vho can be vitaut konnelton to the other vith the key taken aut,,is the inn- plus terminal..in turn off posision....
be care not to short the positive on the frame of the key..you must use isolated kabel shoes...even for test

calj737 · « **Reply #51 on:** November 16, 2016, 05:25:24 AM »

In our stock bikes, the ignition switch is the heart of the electrical service. It takes DC power on RED from the battery and switches it over to BLACK, BROWN and BROWN/WHITE with the key. The Emgo switch you are using is crap and will likely fail after a short amount of time due to the amperage it sees. Most people that do use them successfully install a relay to help offload some burden.

Stryn has the best solution to verify the poles by using a meter. Or, you can see if the key will extract in any/all positions (not foolproof) but the key should only be able to be withdrawn in the "OFF" position.

You don't really need an M-Unit if you are cleaning everything up. Better to use them with a complete re-wire and non-stock components where you must hack into the stock harness repeatedly. Or, the PO has butchered the stock harness and reliability is a major concern.

strynboen · « **Reply #52 on:** November 16, 2016, 07:20:12 AM »

yes its a komplikated job to thange the key type...specily if you keep some of the hareness..

..make a desision now...total homebuild. use a aftermarked key..using relæes to suport it...
.or repareir on the exsiting one...and keep it as stock as posibel...both are thallinting and hard to do...nothing easy and kvick overcomes in mc builds...

minimo · « **Reply #53 on:** November 16, 2016, 09:46:22 AM »

Thanks, guys. I've been metering the wires and checking for continuity and so far so good at the controls... I'm going to allot some quality time one of these weekends to very systematically check the bike from its ins and outs, front to rear.

So the Universal Ignition Switch is crap, eh? Well, how about one of these: http://4into1.com/honda-ignition-switch-square-plug-cb350f-cb360t-cb500k-cb550-cb750k/
I have this fitted on my 550 and after about a hundred rides out with it - no fails so far. Seems to be rated for the other CBs within the range; 400F should comply by association, right?

I would totally rewire the bike if I go with an m-Unit. For sure. But like you guys suggest, since I am cleaning up the bike, I'll try sorting out the wiring with what I have first before I consider throwing down my life savings on the Motogadget goods - I'm sure it would be all worth it!

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strynboen · « **Reply #54 on:** November 16, 2016, 10:04:02 AM »

its up to you self.
..but all vork you do now is vasted..id you thange to motogadet later...vhy do the Work 2 times..the cost to thange is also a faktor..
vhu not only build the ignision..and run the engine..vitaut anything..to testride a fev short rides..no light no loading system..only the coils fired up..
and then vhel all are done on the bike make the finaly total new viring and kontrolls...in good kvality..use the m unit

minimo · « **Reply #55 on:** November 16, 2016, 01:38:21 PM »

I like that suggestion, strynboen.
I will aim to get the bike going on a bare bones wiring setup first especially since I haven't quite nailed down the engine turnover completely yet.

Thanks!

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strynboen · « **Reply #56 on:** November 17, 2016, 02:05:19 AM »

uou can leave the solonid setup on..and use the starter..its simpel ,,just let the thik vires stay on..and use a small extern kontakt to fire it up..it have no direkt konnektion to the rest viring..its only the start buttom..one vire..and cut all start safty..its vaste of vire

bill440cars · « **Reply #57 on:** November 17, 2016, 11:27:43 AM »

Quote from: minimo on November 14, 2016, 01:14:31 PM

Do it, Bill! Document your finds

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If I can get to it, I need to check mine (CB400F) over and see just what I have to work with. Thing Is, I bought mine, several years ago, though I had things going , at the time. Just hated to see it sitting outside and possibly going to waste. Then "Life" threw me a curve, back in '09 and it, along with some others, were in storage, at a Very Close Friend's place and though I have been working, as I can, to get my things all home and build something, it is still taking time. I will post up, when I get it home though, And go from there. Meanwhile, I am still looking in on your build and others that I am interested in.

minimo · « **Reply #58 on:** November 21, 2016, 06:15:08 PM »

Poor lighting in my garage doesn't allow for clean photos...

Maybe this has been covered numerous times on the forums but I got these semi-cheapy clip-ons from 4into1 and the lower chrome socket head bolt hits the tank - both sides.

Sure I've seen clever indents made into tanks but I suppose there are other - more expensive - clip-ons that dodge the tank. I imagine Tarozzi and Woodcraft and even Vortex are brands that are familiar to y'all. I was thinking of trying button head socket screws instead but that may still hit the tank. In fact, I may still need to chop off a bit of the clamp bit, at least the bottom ones, to dodge the tank. Seems the steering stop is nearly at its limit so a little chop may be in order. Any other known work arounds or clip-ons that will work without any tank mods?

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calj737 · « **Reply #59 on:** November 21, 2016, 06:57:46 PM »

Don't grind the clamp area, install a more limiting steering stop. Drill into the lower triple and install a socket head bolt as a "shorter range" steer stop. Button head sockets will help your clamps, but grinding would not be my choice.

minimo · « **Reply #60 on:** November 21, 2016, 07:04:29 PM »

Thanks for chiming in so quickly, calj! Copy on the no grinding.

Well, haste got the better of me and I went ahead and banged indents. Gulp. I don't want to show y'all yet but I happen to be a pretty decent Bondo-smith. One side will unfortunately get more of it than the other but of course I will do my best to make both sides match. Stay tuuuned

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minimo · « **Reply #61 on:** November 21, 2016, 07:05:45 PM »

And the tank had small dings and things anyway so it was gonna get some filling done one way or another.

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strynboen · « **Reply #62 on:** November 22, 2016, 03:47:23 AM »

its hard to drill and tap the stopp..i broke a drill trying to do it...lot easyer to veld a small plate or schrev head.on the orginal one..or make a komplet new one..and veld on..after paint..it all looks fine

minimo · « **Reply #63 on:** November 23, 2016, 07:29:29 PM »

Darn, I'd have tried the drill/tap into the triple stops, but oh the sacrifices one makes to get maximum steering left/right. Oh well. Still finessing the bondo - dent made on one side is not even with the other so I'm going to take my time to make them even

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RAFster122s · « **Reply #64 on:** November 23, 2016, 09:54:12 PM »

Got some plaster? You could cast a male form from one side to section to create a bunch of templates to guide your sanding efforts. Or break out the pencil and create a grid on both sides and then start matching from one side to the other with a contour gauge.
David

calj737 · « **Reply #65 on:** November 24, 2016, 04:54:45 AM »

Quote from: minimo on November 23, 2016, 07:29:29 PM

Darn, I'd have tried the drill/tap into the triple stops, but oh the sacrifices one makes to get maximum steering left/right. Oh well.

Use a center punch to locate the hole you wish to drill. Use some cutting fluid, a quality metal cutting bit, and go easy. Don't bear down on the drill while drilling with a small diameter bit. This is how bits break. Always turn bits slowly when cutting metal. The slower they spin, the better they cut. It produces less heat on the bit, and won't dull the bit so quickly.

I trickle MMO on the bit as I go, drill, withdraw, oil, drill, withdraw, oil, etc. Its not like drilling wood where you plunge through in a single step. Have at it, its only a drill bit. Buy a few spares. But take your time, and go slowly. FFS, you've rebuilt a motorcycle from the ground up, you can drill a hole in cast iron

MoMo · « **Reply #66 on:** November 24, 2016, 09:56:32 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on November 24, 2016, 04:54:45 AM

Quote from: minimo on November 23, 2016, 07:29:29 PM
Darn, I'd have tried the drill/tap into the triple stops, but oh the sacrifices one makes to get maximum steering left/right. Oh well.
Use a center punch to locate the hole you wish to drill. Use some cutting fluid, a quality metal cutting bit, and go easy. Don't bear down on the drill while drilling with a small diameter bit. This is how bits break. Always turn bits slowly when cutting metal. The slower they spin, the better they cut. It produces less heat on the bit, and won't dull the bit so quickly.

I trickle MMO on the bit as I go, drill, withdraw, oil, drill, withdraw, oil, etc. Its not like drilling wood where you plunge through in a single step. Have at it, its only a drill bit. Buy a few spares. But take your time, and go slowly. FFS, you've rebuilt a motorcycle from the ground up, you can drill a hole in cast iron

cobalt bit if you can find one. I drilled an entire disc with one Ridgid cobalt bit, My approach is the same as Cal's

minimo · « **Reply #67 on:** November 24, 2016, 01:17:23 PM »

Thank yous!

I like that plaster mold idea, RAF. Darn good thinking to gauge and try to compare hole sizes (or I may use another hemisphere reference to compare both holes). Thanks!

Calj, you are the man with the master plan. If I'd have not pummeled into my tank already I'd have given that all a shot for sure. Heck, that exact method is what I used to drill out the cam chain adjuster lock bolt with success so far. For now I'm getting the max turn radius without any pinches; at the detriment to my tank now with offset dents, but this will soon be fixed. I'm sure there are some crazy challenges I'm not aware of yet on this bike but I'm knocking down some milestones. The past 550 rebuild was kind of a crapshoot and really more a test of my patience and a testament to my bad organization skills which I'm working on refining with this 400 build. But in the end, I guess perseverance wins - sure it could take a few years - and it's such a fantastic feeling of accomplishment which I'm ever so thankful and grateful to you and the others who have sent me parts and helped me along the way through this and previous journeys toward rebuild and completion and maintenance; let the sappiness rain ;-) This forum has been such an amazing outreach of resource and support and I really could not be doing this without y'all. So fittingly, I'm reminded especially on this Holiday to thank everyone for this awesome experience - "you meet the nicest people on a Honda"

Happy Thanksgiving!

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