Author Topic: IDK Numero Dos - 1975 Honda CB400F (Read 60063 times)

minimo · « **Reply #200 on:** May 29, 2018, 06:33:35 pm »

So I was noticing an amp reading of 14.9V when reaching high revs on my bike which can't be too good for my Shorai LFX14A-BS12.

I just found out that Rick's has a reg/reg (14-100) that is designed with a lower voltage set point to work with "lithium ion" batteries and claims to have a voltage peak point set to 14V +/- .2V which is probably what I want. Are these lower voltage reg/recs new?

I purchased the one higher amp Rick's reg/rec that's connected now (10-100) back in May so I hope 4into1.com will be amenable to either a replacement (if they even have the 14-100) or a refund.

There's always gotta be something.

minimo · « **Reply #201 on:** May 30, 2018, 05:51:45 pm »

So here's the word from Shorai about using the Rick's 10-100 reg/rec:

Quote

I ran your info by the lead tech and he agreed that the 14.5-14.8V would be better than the 14V +/-.

This answer from Rick's 10-100:

Quote

You will need to contact Shorai to see what a compatible set point is for your battery; if the set point it too high on the rec-reg it most likely will fry the rec-reg and the battery which is not covered under warranty. If you do need to switch to the 14-100 you will need to order direct from us – we have not made the product available to distributors yet because we are still producing the line of product. Here is the information for our product so you can decide which piece will work better for your system:

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Lithium-Ion-Battery-Compatible-Rectifier-Regulator-14_100
Rick's Motorsport Electrics offers a Brand New Aftermarket Rectifier-Regulator for your Vintage Honda Street Bikes that is designed with a lower voltage set point to work with lithium ion batteries. Rick's part # 10-100 is a combination unit that will replace the separate rectifier & regulator in your system. *Installation Instructions will be included - User's will need to designate a mounting spot for this rec-reg on their bike.

*Please be sure to use our Year/Make/Model Part Search to ensure this product will work for your machine!

**This rec-reg is not for use with standard lead acid batteries. Rick's recommends Ballistic Performance Batteries; for all other manufacturers of Lithium Ion Batteries please contact the manufacturer of the battery to ensure our product set point is compatible with their battery. The voltage set point is 14V +/- .2.

***Rick's Motorsport Electrics One Year Product Warranty is for the Rec-Reg only. Rick's warranty does not cover batteries of any type.
Retail Price: $114.95

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/OEM-Style-Honda-Rectifier-Regulator-10_100 Set point is 14.5-14.8 DCV.

OEM Style Honda Rectifier-Regulator: This is a combination unit which will replace the OEM regulator and rectifier; OE plugs and installation instructions are included.
Retail Price: $104.95

However, I went on to mention to Shorai that I was reading 14.9V at my gauge which pulls from the 12V at ignition and this reading gets about .9V under what the battery actually reads, so that's 15.8V at the battery when it's at peak. Shorai had this to answer with:

Quote

Although the recommended ceiling is 15.2V and we have tested it far higher than that with success, it is possible that it could cause the battery lifespan to be a bit short due to increased internal resistance from the prolonged heat exposure.

Worst case scenario would be if you started from very low voltage, somehow bumpstarted it and then it was hit with pretty high voltage right off the bat. It can cause one or two of the cells to overcharge. That could cause outgassing (steaming battery)

We'll see if I have to prove Shorai wrong when I get more rides in.

Calj, if you're out there. You have a similar set up with a Rick's reg/rec 10-100 and a Shorai LFX, right? Your battery is maybe bigger and can handle larger loads but you haven't had any issues, right?

minimo · « **Reply #202 on:** May 30, 2018, 05:54:08 pm »

Btw, per Rick's, their 14-100 reg/rec is currently only available through them here:
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Lithium-Ion-Battery-Compatible-Rectifier-Regulator-14_100

Quote

Rick's Motorsport Electrics offers a Brand New Aftermarket Rectifier-Regulator for your Vintage Honda Street Bike that is designed with a lower voltage set point to work with lithium ion batteries. Rick's part # 10-100 is a combination unit that will replace the separate rectifier & regulator in your system. *Installation Instructions will be included - User's will need to designate a mounting spot for this rec-reg on their bike.

*Please be sure to use our Year/Make/Model Part Search to ensure this product will work for your machine!

**This rec-reg is not for use with standard lead acid batteries. Rick's recommends Ballistic Performance Batteries; for all other manufacturers of Lithium Ion Batteries please contact the manufacturer of the battery to ensure our product set point is compatible with their battery. The voltage set point is 14V +/- .2.

***Rick's Motorsport Electrics One Year Product Warranty is for the Rec-Reg only. Rick's warranty does not cover batteries of any type.

calj737 · « **Reply #203 on:** May 30, 2018, 06:06:23 pm »

I am, I haven’t. But I’m all for using their new 14-100 if that’s their recommendation.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #204 on:** May 30, 2018, 07:51:37 pm »

Quote from: minimo on May 30, 2018, 05:54:08 pm

Btw, per Rick's, their 14-100 reg/rec is currently only available through them here:
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Lithium-Ion-Battery-Compatible-Rectifier-Regulator-14_100

Quote
Rick's Motorsport Electrics offers a Brand New Aftermarket Rectifier-Regulator for your Vintage Honda Street Bike that is designed with a lower voltage set point to work with lithium ion batteries. Rick's part # 10-100 is a combination unit that will replace the separate rectifier & regulator in your system. *Installation Instructions will be included - User's will need to designate a mounting spot for this rec-reg on their bike.

*Please be sure to use our Year/Make/Model Part Search to ensure this product will work for your machine!

**This rec-reg is not for use with standard lead acid batteries. Rick's recommends Ballistic Performance Batteries; for all other manufacturers of Lithium Ion Batteries please contact the manufacturer of the battery to ensure our product set point is compatible with their battery. The voltage set point is 14V +/- .2.

***Rick's Motorsport Electrics One Year Product Warranty is for the Rec-Reg only. Rick's warranty does not cover batteries of any type.

Good to know. Thanks for sharing.

minimo · « **Reply #205 on:** June 12, 2018, 01:34:11 pm »

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zK7ymNlHcCCA2H2ozWTXxlN8CyDfJxhF
So I’ve got some 70 miles now on this bike, mostly short rides as I only have a Moving Permit and the breather is still a bit “smokey”. Hoping this will burn off eventually? The engine too is running noticeably a bit hot on longer rides (naturally?)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VgHcdxgK5LlPmZuXWzgcuKdF9ZfW3UHF

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #206 on:** June 12, 2018, 03:28:43 pm »

Or you can spend $45 MORE(!) and get a similar reg/rec system from Revival with spiffy connectors. https://revivalcycles.com/collections/new-products/products/lifepo4-compatible-mosfet-regulator-rectifier

minimo · « **Reply #207 on:** June 12, 2018, 08:29:16 pm »

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on June 12, 2018, 03:28:43 pm

Or you can spend $45 MORE(!) and get a similar reg/rec system from Revival with spiffy connectors. https://revivalcycles.com/collections/new-products/products/lifepo4-compatible-mosfet-regulator-rectifier

I’m not paying $45 extra to make an already tight fit tighter with those fancy connectors. Thanks but I’ll stick to the flying leads.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #208 on:** June 13, 2018, 07:53:58 am »

Quote from: minimo on June 12, 2018, 08:29:16 pm

Quote from: SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan on June 12, 2018, 03:28:43 pm
Or you can spend $45 MORE(!) and get a similar reg/rec system from Revival with spiffy connectors. https://revivalcycles.com/collections/new-products/products/lifepo4-compatible-mosfet-regulator-rectifier
I’m not paying $45 extra to make an already tight fit tighter with those fancy connectors. Thanks but I’ll stick to the flying leads.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

minimo · « **Reply #209 on:** July 11, 2018, 10:53:54 pm »

Seems I overtightened a bolt on my oil pan and caused a crack that looks pretty bad and now dribbles oil. Are cracks in these aluminum oil pans repairable?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

strynboen · « **Reply #210 on:** July 12, 2018, 01:54:31 am »

easy to tig veld...but hard to polish nice after

calj737 · « **Reply #211 on:** July 12, 2018, 02:54:05 am »

Quote from: strynboen on July 12, 2018, 01:54:31 am

easy to tig veld...but hard to polish nice after

Yes, the pans can be welded. TIG welding them in general is easy enough, and the best approach. However, TIG welding 40year old cast aluminum is not easy. Add to that challenge, 40 years of oil soaked, road grime plastered aluminum, and you’ll find counting the hairs on Jon Bovi’s head 1-by-1 and easier task.

The grime, oil, and grunge will come out as soon as you hit the pan with enough heat, causing tremendous porosity and fouled welds. You.l have multiple cycles of cleaning, heating and cleaning before welding to get the material clean enough to weld solidly.

4047 wire is a better choice too than 4043 as it has a lower melting point. Groove the crack and fill it with 2 small passes, peening and cleaning between them. Leave the top pass for strength unless you need clearance for the bolt.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #212 on:** July 12, 2018, 10:02:30 am »

Given the porosity of the existing pan, I would opt for a replacement. Cheap and much easier.

minimo · « **Reply #213 on:** July 12, 2018, 10:29:12 am »

Thanks, guys!
I appreciate your pro-weld responses calj and strynboen. I think I will try to opt for a replacement. I understand that a CB350 pan of the same year would be able to adapt?

Anybody know anybody who might be ok with relinquishing their old oil pan?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

minimo · « **Reply #214 on:** July 12, 2018, 06:29:55 pm »

Lesson learned - don’t use impact drill on tightening these oil pan bolts.

It’s replacement time!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don R · « **Reply #215 on:** July 14, 2018, 02:17:02 pm »

I use a 1/4" drive metric socket on an extension and a T handle for tightening almost everything 6mm.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #216 on:** July 14, 2018, 03:33:10 pm »

Yeah, you went gorilla on that one bolt.

minimo · « **Reply #217 on:** July 14, 2018, 06:08:21 pm »

Total rookie move on my part.
Haste makes waste, as they say.
Thanks for the note, Don R. I will def keep it old skool from here on out (situationally).
Meanwhile, I’ve taken heed of your suggestion, SOHC Cafe Fan, and ordered a seemingly decent replacement oil pan.

In other news, the bike passed inspection at the California Highway Patrol. I took it into AAA this morning to finalize the application for title/registration only to find out that the rookie CHP officer made a dumb clerical error making note of the engine number as the frame VIN and then omitting (crossing out as n/a) on the engine VIN field of the app. Frustrating! I’m proabaly going to have to take the bike back in for re-inspection. Ugh. The already long saga continues...

RAFster122s · « **Reply #218 on:** July 14, 2018, 09:16:53 pm »

Minimo, I hope they do not try to make you pay for the clerical error. Good luck getting it all sorted out. The hassles of gov't

The inspection goal is worthwhile to reduce theft, but sometimes it is derailed by errors.

minimo · « **Reply #219 on:** July 14, 2018, 09:34:17 pm »

Thanks, RAF.
CHP does not charge anything, but it is my time to have to peel away from work to visit the CHP office for inspection and lose at least a couple of hours while they do their “research” after inspection. It sucks to have to go through this process again and bend to the officer’s schedule. So this will probably delay the process another month. I don’t know why he crossed out the engine VIN field when he made clear visual inspection of that number, even calling out the “E” letter in the sequence. Why would the DMV form have separate fields for frame and engine VIN respectively? Ugh! I get frustrated just thinking about this.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

minimo · « **Reply #220 on:** July 17, 2018, 05:58:16 pm »

So an unusual turn of events.
I called CHP and left a message with the officer explaining that the DMV clerk pointed out some issues with his entries and lack there of. I get a call back from the officer with an apology and news that he has already gone and prepared corrected versions of the inspection report all without having to reinspect the bike! Woo-hoo! Tear down of the engine shall commence :-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

minimo · « **Reply #221 on:** July 20, 2018, 07:55:55 pm »

Tear down courtesy of...

...tools of the trade #honda

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

spuds · « **Reply #222 on:** July 21, 2018, 06:42:34 am »

Got caught up quickly on this one this morning. Some highs and lows for sure. Looking forward to seeing the finished product----liking the seat shape you settled on by the way.

minimo · « **Reply #223 on:** July 21, 2018, 07:00:53 pm »

Thanks, spuds. A mix of joy and anguish...

Clearing out the innards now. Pistons are out. Here they are from 1 to 4 (rider side left to right):

I do like my marshmallows toasty, btw.
One of the rings on #3 had broken off probably as a result of me flipping the engine over (on a padded floor) to get to the bottom engine bolts. I’m wondering if maybe the ring had broken off by my sloppiness or if it had busted off while riding. The cylinders so far upon initial inspection look smooth and scratch-free. Hmmm.

Hard carbon deposits all over the place. Even some hard rock-like deposits on top of the pistons. Gonna give these a gentle bath in some Dawn soap and warm water overnight and a plastic brush scrub tomorrow mid morning. Ease it all into an ultrasonic bath maybe late tomorrow. Treating this engine like an onion and working and cleaning it in layers. I’ll even try to get some soda blast time in.

The cam chain and respective parts were suspect of some damage and there was some shearing of the engine case... Should I be concerned or is this negligible:

I was also able to pull out the Push Bar (#7 in drawing) and inner+outer tensioner springs. Not sure if I was supposed to do that as it was a bit of a struggle to do.

The Tensioner Slipper and Cam Chain Guide have probably seen better times.

I’m looking into replacing the cam chain tensioner system with those parts from TTR400, if they even still make ‘em. Or, can I simply clean up the parts I got and possibly replace the tensioner slipper and guide and chain and be good to go?

minimo · « **Reply #224 on:** July 21, 2018, 07:01:42 pm »

Also, the pistons I noticed have numbers embossed on them that don’t quite follow any sequence. Are those critical, from left to right?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

News:

Author Topic: IDK Numero Dos - 1975 Honda CB400F (Read 60063 times)