Author Topic: '76 CB550F Super Sport Project (Read 11127 times)

Smudgemo · « **on:** August 12, 2016, 09:45:25 AM »

I picked up this '76 CB550F a couple of weeks ago because I wanted a project. According to the documentation from DMW, it has not been licensed for the last 15 years, but nothing seems terribly wrong or amiss. The plan is to keep it mostly stock since they are nice looking bikes and it's not been changed much in 40 years.

I'm going to be looking for a few parts like a headlight bucket and the rear brake cover because they are probably serviceable but damaged enough. So far I've stripped it down to the the frame/engine/front end/rear end, and I brazed up a C hook to pull the engine. I'm also making some frame cradles to mount to the HF motorcycle jack since the oil pan is lower than the frame rails (yeah, I'm one of those guys.)

Soon the frame will be off to a frame guy to verify alignment is okay, then stripping and paint. So far the only thing I'm seeing is the left hoop for the passenger peg looks like it's closer to the swingarm than the right side. I'll probably start on the engine service after that, and just sort of tackle each must-do when it needs to go back on.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1 on:** August 12, 2016, 10:16:01 AM »

That looks like a solid bike for a resto/survivor project or whatever you want to do with it.

flatlander · « **Reply #2 on:** August 12, 2016, 12:06:50 PM »

i just saw your intro thread and will follow you here as well.

don, smudgemo seems sensible enough in not wanting to hack it up

Smudgemo · « **Reply #3 on:** August 12, 2016, 06:46:35 PM »

Some more shots of present condition, the C hook and making frame cradles for the jack.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #4 on:** August 16, 2016, 03:20:13 PM »

I can tell you from personal experience with my 550F and the HF bike jack that you can use it with your bike without any adaptors or spacers.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #5 on:** August 19, 2016, 05:20:32 PM »

But then you're lifting it by the oil pan, aren't you? Not that I believe it's a problem, but I have aluminum scrap laying around and I'd like to support it by the frame so it's rock-solid and I can pull/install the engine w/o the wheels on. Almost lost control of my mill once when moving it so I'm sensitive to heavy things falling over.

I don't know, it's my first project of this sort. Besides, I don't have a lot of reasons to break out the boring head that I made a couple of years ago:

I'm planning to make my own swing arm bushings and any other misc. parts that I don't feel like chasing down or buying.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2016, 09:49:35 PM »

No, the lifting parts are far enough apart to straddle the oil pan

Smudgemo · « **Reply #7 on:** September 05, 2016, 04:43:17 PM »

I pulled the engine last weekend using the C hook I made and got it mounted on a stand. Today I stripped most of the remaining pieces so I can take it to a frame shop next Saturday to make sure it's straight before paint. Note that a bicycle headset race removal tool works perfectly on this type of bike, too. I happen to have one and figured it would be better than a long drift.

From here the story gets a little weird. I have a Craigslist app on my phone that I search bikes CB* up to 1981 in the Bay Area and in WI (since I've got family there) just to get a feel for how good or bad of a deal I struck, and I just happened to take a spin through Friday and found another non-running orange '76 CB550F "survivor" for cheap. I just wanted a few items, but my brother volunteered to get it, and since it was so cheap.. Now I just need to arrange shipping which makes this less of a great deal, but there are a number of good parts I can use. I think the plan is to build up the CA bike with the nicer set of parts first, then do something with the WI bike. Probably mostly stock, but a little less polished?

Smudgemo · « **Reply #8 on:** October 02, 2016, 03:19:39 PM »

So now I've got the frame and bits ready for powder, and I'll take them in as soon as the correct passenger peg mount shows up from ebay. Building bicycle frames means lots of attention to detail and it's hard not to start smoothing out the frame, but I'm leaving it as is. However, I decided to fix the half ground off center stand tip by getting in some gas welding practice. I didn't realize it was so thin and initially blew through what was left, but was able to easily build up some material to smooth out a bit.

I also want to give a shout-out to Evap-O-Rust for cleaning up most of the plated hardware. The nuts didn't survive as well and will be replaced, but the rest of it looks great! I forgot about this stuff and let it soak all week. I've got a bunch of other parts soaking now and can't wait to see how they turn out by next weekend.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #9 on:** November 05, 2016, 08:35:56 AM »

Just a few update photos. Frame and assorted bits are back from powder and looking great. I assembled the pegs and side stand, pressed in the bushings and installed tapered head set bearings. So far so good. I'm about to assemble the forks and start on the engine. I'm going to have way more invested in this project than it's worth, but prices aren't going down and it's cheaper than boats or airplanes.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #10 on:** November 05, 2016, 12:27:34 PM »

Forks are assembled and ready to install. I had the sliders vapor blasted by member Nils (NobleHops http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,150819.0.html ) at http://www.restocycle.com/ and replaced the hardware with new items. I'm very pleased with the result and intend to send my valve cover, hubs and some other parts his way for clean-up.

calj737 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 06, 2016, 03:07:33 AM »

A quick tidbit about your gaiters; make sure the seam is aligned to the rear for aesthetics, and, inspect the pleats for a small weep hole and be certain it is on the low side of the pleat to allow moisture to drain out. These are very easy to overlook things and do matter.

Sliders look fantastic; Nils does beautiful work! Make sure your axle stamps go on correctly too with the gap to the rear.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #12 on:** November 06, 2016, 07:03:21 AM »

Thanks. I just put everything together to get a preview of pretty. I haven't even filled them with oil yet since I don't have the correct stuff at the moment and they are sitting in the corner with all the other parts waiting to be installed. But keep it coming - I appreciate not finding out the hard way that I did something wrong. The gators are repos, so I'll be sure to check where the holes are located.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2017, 03:22:02 PM »

I finally got back to this project and started with the wiring harnesses because I want to keep it light enough to drop the frame over the finished engine. So far so good.

Turning to the engine, I pulled the worn rocker cover and replaced it with an updated version and a cam that was in better shape than the prior.

Finally, I pulled the pan to replace the gasket and do a check. Nothing scary as far as I can tell. Experienced opinions welcome.

calj737 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2017, 04:04:20 PM »

Whomever replaced your stock upper mount hangar bolt with threaded rod needs to be publicly caned! As beautiful a job as you're doing, that bike needs a proper 10mm bolt upper and 12mm bolt lower.

A reminder; the right sid upper motor mount hole in the frame needs to be clean metal to pitch the mount bracket and battery ground cable and motor. Powder coated surfaces prevent getting a good, solid ground. Treat the bare metal frame with some dielectric grease to prevent rust and corrosion.

Tell me about he bicycle frames you build!

Smudgemo · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2017, 05:13:51 PM »

I can't tell if you're serious about the all-thread, but it's on the stand right now so we're all good. I scraped the paint on the outside of the frame at that mounting point you're mentioning, so I think I'll be good there, too.

Bicycles? Just a hobby thing. Box of tubes and a torch. The last one I finished is a tandem for my friends, and I will admit that I'm pretty proud of it:

You can see all of them if you search Flickr for my handle.

calj737 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 11, 2017, 05:49:09 PM »

My mistake about the threaded rod. Thought that was in your bike

Please accept my apology.

Nice twin! I've been tinkering with the idea of taking the 2-week course at UBI and making the wife a new MB frame from CroMo or Ti. I think it would be a blast to learn the specifics of making a bicycle frame.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #17 on:** February 11, 2017, 09:20:58 PM »

Two things to consider for frame building courses (other than that you'd no doubt have a blast):
1. Whatever joining methods you choose, get some torch lessons if you need them before taking the course. You'll be more able to focus on building a bike if you already know how to handle a torch.
2. Consider steel instead of Ti. My opinion is that they are essentially the same result, but steel is a tenth the price and way easier to join tubes. Rust isn't an issue if you spray something oily in the tubes when it's back from paint.

If you're considering Ti, it suggests you either know how to TIG or want to. I only have an O/A torch, but I prefer lugs and fillet brazing, plus it's so handy to have on hand. For the Honda, I brazed cracked and broken tabs easily, and I bet they last for a good, long time. These are always broken, aren't they?

Just my $.02. I'd also suggest looking at Doug Fattic's frame building course in Niles, MI. He's a good guy and I bet he's an excellent teacher. I'd love to take his course, but kids, school, etc. Yamaguchi in Rifle, CO is another good one and would be a killer vacation if you had two wheels with you to explore (both with motor and w/o.) I do love the Sierras and Rockies.

calj737 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 12, 2017, 01:38:44 AM »

I've got the TIG skills, so thats all covered

It's the geometry and mechanical aspects of a bike I'm really unfamiliar with. Thanks for the recommendations, I'll give them due consideration.

You're brazing will lugs? Lots of really beautiful bikes use that technique. Its pretty hard to persuade myself that a brazed joint will ever be as strong as a TIG welded joint, but I know they've been doing it that way for a LONG time with equal results.

Back to our regularly scheduled Bike Build now...

Your cam in that picture still looks pretty "used". Was that the best condition cam you could find?

Smudgemo · « **Reply #19 on:** February 12, 2017, 06:48:14 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on February 12, 2017, 01:38:44 AM

Your cam in that picture still looks pretty "used". Was that the best condition cam you could find?

It was at the time and seems to be within specs. I'm going to give it a go since it's not terribly difficult to replace it if there are problems. I'm still not sure it won't need a new top end rebuild, anyway. It's got good compression and leak down numbers, but I've haven't run it yet.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #20 on:** February 12, 2017, 09:47:34 PM »

Got the seat recovered yesterday afternoon. Didn't turn out quite perfect, but it's pretty good and it was only about $40 so it won't kill me to try again one day if I end up not liking my work the first time around. Just waiting for the buckles from D Silver Spares and I'll get the grab strap squared away.

Smudgemo · « **Reply #21 on:** March 26, 2017, 09:36:51 PM »

The weather finally warmed up enough to paint the engine, so I got it painted and the next day George and I installed it via the frame lifted over it method. I'm super-happy with how things have progressed, and I'm hoping to fire it up by the end of April.

I spent some time cleaning the rims and spokes with aluminum foil and water, and got a new set of tires installed. The chrome has cleaned up very nicely.

I'm keeping the air box completely stock, but the element is no longer available from Honda, so I bought some air cleaner foam and made my own. ATF soaked for that strange color.

I got most of the electric done, and mounted the fenders and clocks. The lights all work properly, and the faces are the blue version, but they look nice.

I dropped the tins on just to see how it's going to look, and I'm admittedly pretty stoked.

And at the end of the afternoon, I grabbed the rusty chain guard and did the water/al foil thing and it really polished up nicely.

palepainter · « **Reply #22 on:** March 27, 2017, 07:06:08 AM »

Its looking as good as new!! Congrats!

Stev-o · « **Reply #23 on:** March 27, 2017, 07:27:09 AM »

Great job....

catsoup · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2017, 08:30:34 AM »

looking pretty cool so far!

News:

Author Topic: '76 CB550F Super Sport Project (Read 11127 times)