Topic: 1973 CB500 Forks size and colouring

[cantarauk]

Hi,

There are a lot ok knowledgeable people on this forum which is a little intimidating but you have to start somewhere so please excuse any silly questions from here on in. All advice and knowledge exchange is most welcomed

I have done some research and have read somewhere that the CB500/4 have shorted (different) forks on the front and back from that of the CB550. Would someone confirm this and also advice what the sizes are as well as recommend some upgrades. Currently Hagon has caught me eye and I am looking at the all black option for the rear. For the front I may stick to stock and just do some maintenance or rebuild on these.

The staying on the subject of the front forks would it be possible to anodise the inner tube black. Is this a possibility ? and if not what are the recommendations to create a all black from fork.

G

Another question on the from forks that I am thing about doing but would like any advice

[calj737]

The front forks are 35MM tubes, just like the 550 and the 750s. Where they differ is the "lowers" (the part that connects to the wheel). Each model (500, 550k, 550F, 750K etc) has slightly different mounting points for the fender and slightly different overall heights. Some model years are interchangeable parts, but best to get the entire fork set complete if you do choose to source a non-stock fork.

As for anodizing, only the lower portion is aluminum, and it does not anodize well because its "cast" alloy, not high grade aluminum. The fork tube slider (upper portion) is chromed still, so that won't anodize at all. Best you can do is to powder coat the lower piece, and have the upper chrome "blacked out" with a "Black Chrome" treatment.

I have seen some people powder coat the upper after de-chroming the tube, but you run a great risk of too thick a coating and conflicting with the fork seals. So best to steer clear of that idea.

Hagon makes an excellent shock for the money.

[cantarauk]

Thank you for the reply. Think I am going with the powder-coat option for the lowers and then use some sort of tight fitting sleeve that will fill the cap between the clips and the lower yoke and then use gaiters. This seems the best option for now.

[calj737]

Standard gaiters should span between the fork lower and the headlight ears. The stock ears pass over the triple tree lower clamp, and connect the upper end of the gaiter to help prevent the weather from attacking the uppers. Important to orient the drain holes in the gaiters to the rear, and lower side of the pleat for drainage.

[cantarauk]

Ahh ok I see that from some images. So may have to get some other gaiters as I am removing the headlight ears as I am putting drop bars on with a short headlight bracket for non-standard headlight

[calj737]

I have used these with custom bars and triples. You slide them on before slipping the forks through the triples, set them high enough where they won't conflict with the compression of the fork, then attach the gaiter to the groove in them. Space them high enough so they don't conflict, but low enough to allow the gaiter to avoid being stretched open.

http://jokermachine.com/products/cb750-fork-boot-collars.html

[cantarauk]

That is perfect. Thank you very much

[jonda500]

I have done some research and have read somewhere that the CB500/4 have shorted (different) forks on the front and back from that of the CB550.

All 500,550 and most 750 fork lowers are the same length and have exactly the same mudguard/brake arm mounting points. Any SOHC4 500/550 forks will fit on any SOHC4 500 or 550! (They only changed a little internally).
750 forks have longer fork tubes.
John

[754]

I think some high end bike suspension tuning places, have a black treatment for the fork tubes..