Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 45801 times)

palepainter · « **Reply #125 on:** April 05, 2017, 08:10:58 AM »

I really like the transition between the tank, seat and tail. Looks great, nice and flowing lines.

754 · « **Reply #126 on:** April 05, 2017, 09:06:06 AM »

What will the fairing be made of ? Are you making it yourself ? Looks similar to a Rickman style.
My buddy just did a custom mount fairing on an HD, tova frame that was not made for it.
The basic start to that was two blocks welded to the neck, up front , with a side hole in each, then built the bracket out from there....very strong. To do that on a Honda neck you would notch the block before welding it on. He also does a lot of hammerformed type of stuff.
I studied that a bit , made a few tools...learned a bit.
He has a converted nibbler that dies some cool stuff.... Basically like a Pullmax on steroids....big heavy and solid. He just converted it to a foot speed control, and now it will be doubly useful.
Interesting stuff to watch taking shape...
Will post a pic of a tank he just did.

SF · « **Reply #127 on:** April 05, 2017, 10:15:31 AM »

Looks great man.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #128 on:** April 05, 2017, 11:14:51 AM »

Hey thanks palepainter and SF for the comments. I’m using this bike to try some new (to me) techniques for making things.

And so 754, yes I’m going to try and make the fairing myself. It will hopefully be made from formed aluminum and I’ve been investigating flow forming. I’m going to try it with an old air chisel with hammer attachments.

I’ve put together a mount system that bolts on (see photo) as I didn’t want to alter the frame too much. It still needs a bit of work, but so far it seems solid with a few different attachment potentials.

That tank looks cool, Frank. Thanks and I look forward to any other metal forming tips you may have.

Cheers, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #129 on:** May 12, 2017, 08:02:51 AM »

I'm back from the old country and ready to get some more work done on the 550.

Before I left I made a new bracket for the fairing. I can now work out the "best" body position I can find with what I have (I think if I could get my hands back another inch and a half I would be on it, so maybe articulating clip-ons down the road).

I can now also work out the fairing clearance issues for the hands, brake MC and hose, all the cables, gauges, wiring etc. when using these handlebars (also knowing I will should have clearance if I move my hands back slightly in the future).

The bracket is still a sketch model and I will finalize its form with proper fasteners and what-not soon.

Coming up: forming the leather seat.

Back at it, later, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #130 on:** July 13, 2017, 03:45:38 PM »

It's been awhile since I had anything worth updating. My main ride is down with a cracked head (intercooled turbo diesel) so I've been into that a bit.

Anyway I've finally got back to the seat project and it's a good thing I discovered wabi-sabi (the beauty of imperfection) as this seat has it in spades. I don't really care how it looks as I've been experimenting with building a suspension seat out of leather and while it doesn't look great the concept worked out quite well.

The seat cushion is suspended by the seat pan and there is no foam or filler (there is a second layer of vacuumed formed pet-g under the leather). I'm now back to mocking up the rear cowl and hope to have that done soon. The colour of the leather is not to my liking but I hope that continually oiling it will darken it more.

Take care, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #131 on:** July 13, 2017, 03:50:07 PM »

Here's one in the vacuum bag.

later, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #132 on:** September 28, 2017, 10:36:12 AM »

Thank dog I found wabi-sabi cause I feel a lot better about the finish on my bike.

Made some progress, and I look at this stuff as 1 to 1 "proof of concept" models for trying out ideas. I wanted to make a seat / cowl unit that would open and this is what I have so far.

I'll make custom indicator light brackets to allow a friction free pivot joint for the seat unit. Right now gravity and my body weight keep it in place. I'm not sure if I will put a latch on or not. If I make another I will go one gauge thicker on the aluminium (this one is 16 gauge).

That's it for now. I missed this season with the cracked head on my daily driver that I need to take care of, so now I'm shooting for spring to be on the road for it's 40th anniversary.

later, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #133 on:** October 01, 2017, 11:22:32 AM »

Found some indicator lights on kijiji and another gauge bracket to modify for the fairing clearance. Working out the details and fitment. I really wanted to continue the line created by the bottom of the tank and I can see where I would make small changes to further emphasize that idea (see string line pic). That sharp point of the cowl need to be dealt with. Thinking about it.

I really appreciate the quality of the lights from this era. Great example of design of the times. I'm going to go with the set of 4 smaller lights and try to keep them aligned front to back.

Slow and steady and keeping it fun! Later, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #134 on:** October 12, 2017, 08:41:43 PM »

Flow Forming

Not much to show, but work goes on in the background. I've finally had a chance to try flow forming aluminium using a modified air chisel. It's early in the experiment, but I can say that it does - so far- work great.

This example was a quick (less than 30 seconds) process that I did using the centre recess in the mill turn table. I went as deep as the opening would allow, so I'm sure I can go deeper. I don't even know what kind of aluminium this is as I just found some scraps in the bin. Different grades and gauges of aluminium will be part of the experiment.

I'll make more tips for the tool (these are nylatron and I have some delrin I'll try) and then I'll need to make some concave forms for the pieces I want to make. This will hopefully include both side panels and the fairing.

Stay tuned, it will be slow, Darren

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #135 on:** April 27, 2018, 03:44:23 PM »

It's been a while. Long enough to get the 90 day warning on my reply.

So winter is finally over and I need to get this bike on the road. I have new tires and a list of parts to find. My plan is to go to Honda Canada first and see what they can do for me and then go to a Honda CB supply house.

Being in Canada it kind of pisses me off to have to pay in US$ for parts ordered in Ontario. Any Canadians have information on ordering parts from US suppliers and how that compares to buying in Canada (in US dollars).

Anyway, I have a question on some parts (and I'll have more and may post again in the main forum). The bike was missing some parts so I'm going off of parts fiche and what I find online.

In the picture below my guess is that parts # 27, 17 and 27 make up the overflow tube (or whatever it’s called) and that parts # 25, 26 and 7 are what I need to connect the tank to the carbs (pd46c).

The question is: what is part # 7 ?

The part is not listed in either the CMS parts fiche or in the Service Honda parts fiche.

What is it? Do I need it?

Cheers, dj

Scramps · « **Reply #136 on:** April 27, 2018, 04:19:49 PM »

Looks to me like a spring used to prevent kinks in that tube, I’d imagine it’s not 100% necessary, but I will defer to those with more experience

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #137 on:** April 27, 2018, 06:36:35 PM »

Quote from: Scramps on April 27, 2018, 04:19:49 PM

Looks to me like a spring used to prevent kinks in that tube, I’d imagine it’s not 100% necessary, but I will defer to those with more experience

you got it, Scramps...I have actually never seen that on a 1970's honda

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #138 on:** April 28, 2018, 09:06:04 AM »

Makes sense, thanks guys !
dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #139 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:02:15 PM »

Help Identifying Rear Wheel

I'm ordering parts and want to get the right ones and this bike doesn't seem to have a 550 rear wheel. The brake shoes look almost new, but not knowing how old they are is it a must to replace them? (I've read that they can delaminate)

If anyone can confirm what this rear wheel is I would be thankful. My research leads me to believe it is from a CB 450.

The inner hub diameter is 180mm (7.09 inches). It has four round dampers and the brake shoes are labelled ASK1037SR2 FF.

cheers, dj

ps The rear sprocket is a 35 tooth and the front is 16 tooth. Is this OK for a street 550?

later

Godffery · « **Reply #140 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:50:00 PM »

Yes that looks like a CB450 rear hub. (Not something I would use on a 550 for a number of reasons)
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi9qcuXi-PaAhXD44MKHe87CFEQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cmsnl.com%2Fhonda-cb450k5-1972-usa_model453%2Fpartslist%2FF%2B%2B16.html&psig=AOvVaw2u6i0pE3MMD9LYa9A7KyEE&ust=1525215104565973

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #141 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:59:57 PM »

Can you elaborate, Godffery?

Are we talking dangerous reasons? (I made new spacers to centre it and it appears to be in great shape)

Thanks, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #142 on:** May 03, 2018, 03:28:09 PM »

Got to get this thing on the road. Going to go with the 450 rear wheel. From what I can find the 450, 500 and 550 are considered the mid-size Honda wheels and this hub has the same inside diameter as the 550. I have even found suppliers that list shoes and bearings as being interchangeable. Plus, I’ve seen posts on 550 cush drive problems and this hub appears to be a much simpler mechanism that is in great shape, so I’m OK with it.

Anyway I’m making my final parts list to order in the next day or so. I’m thinking of going with 4 into 1 as they seem to have most of the parts I need and from what I can see they can deal with shipping to Canada. (Any Canucks with stories?)

I’ve finally had time to tackle the tank. I’ve been bead blasting the “custom” green paint job and have found a bunch of small dents, but overall it’s in great shape. It still needs more work and I’ll finish it like the other steel parts (bead blasted, brass wire brushed and waxed).

The bike still had gas in the tank and when I drained it, it came out very clean despite the tank having a coating of minor surface rust. The screen doesn’t look bad either, but since I can buy a new aftermarket petcock with filter for less than I can buy the filter for my old one I will just get the new one (lucky it’s a 16mm x 1.5mm as others seem to be more difficult to find).

I still need to finish de-rusting the inside and I plan to use phosphoric acid.

That’s it for now, cheers, dj

Godffery · « **Reply #143 on:** May 04, 2018, 09:29:17 AM »

Sorry it took a while to get back to you on this thread. The primary issue with the 450 hub is the very limited cush drive, in fact, it barely has one at all. (just little rubber inserts for the sprocket mounting pins) The 500/550 hub was vastly improved. (which is much easier on items like; Chain, Sprockets, Transmission, Spokes, Rear Tire, right down to a smoother ride)

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #144 on:** May 10, 2018, 02:02:28 PM »

Hey Godffery thanks for the info. I'll look for another wheel but this will have to do me for now.

Trying to get this thing on the road. I have a package coming from 4into1 that will help get me moving, but in the meantime I'm working on the body parts. Fairing development taking priority now.

Getting the tank done also. Just some samples of finishes using bead blasting, bead basting plus using a soft brass brush, then using red polishing compound with a polishing wheel and finally using green polish.

Take care, dj

BradyN · « **Reply #145 on:** May 11, 2018, 06:24:37 AM »

Bike looks great so far! Are you planning on keeping the tank bare metal?

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #146 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:03:36 AM »

Thanks BradyN for the comment ! I'm leaving everything bare at this time to help get the bike on the road. I've been using this project to experiment with various finishes and forming techniques.

Once the bike is running and all mechanical issues dealt with I may take it all apart and finish the pieces in another way. As for now I'm liking the bare metal with wax finish.

later, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #147 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:06:35 AM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on May 11, 2018, 09:03:36 AM

Thanks BradyN for the comment ! I'm leaving everything bare at this time to help get the bike on the road. I've been using this project to experiment with various finishes and forming techniques.

Once the bike is running and all mechanical issues dealt with I may take it all apart and finish the pieces in another way. As for now I'm liking the bare metal with wax finish.

later, dj

You may want to clear coat the tank. The bottom of the tank is going to be exposed repeatedly to heat from the air-cooled motor, which will likely cause the wax to deteriorate. Just my $0.02!

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #148 on:** May 11, 2018, 10:23:18 AM »

Hey Fan and Cal, thanks for your input!

Yea I would like to get the dents out and I will look into doing that, and as I've posted before I will probably finish the steel parts at some point. Right now I need the money to get it on the road: make it work then make it pretty (read that somewhere, ha). (Also my diesel has a cracked head and that is where my money is going: new head, timing chain etc, etc it adds up)

For now I will wax them and I also coat all exposed underparts with Krown undercoat. This was developed for high latitude aircraft and is composed of some kind of oil and wax. I use it on my vehicles and it needs to be done every year as it wears off.

Other thing to remember is that this is a Canadian bike that will be inside for most of the year and then used for fair weather trips. I plan to store it carefully, but it is practically a desert here and things don't rust very quick.

However, I want to thank you for your concerns. Take care, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #149 on:** May 19, 2018, 05:15:28 PM »

Made some progress today on the fairing sub structure.

Still needs work (trimming, proper fasteners, a few more detail pieces, etc) and I spent some time making sure things are aligned properly. The big circle ring is just for jigging and I still have to fab up some supports for holding the ends in place.

Next I need to make a big block or hardwood to mill out the form for the flow forming I want to try. And make a windscreen etc, never ends. Good thing it is fun.

cheers, dj

News:

Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 45801 times)