Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40007 times)

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #150 on:** April 28, 2018, 09:06:04 AM »

Makes sense, thanks guys !
dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #151 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:02:15 PM »

Help Identifying Rear Wheel

I'm ordering parts and want to get the right ones and this bike doesn't seem to have a 550 rear wheel. The brake shoes look almost new, but not knowing how old they are is it a must to replace them? (I've read that they can delaminate)

If anyone can confirm what this rear wheel is I would be thankful. My research leads me to believe it is from a CB 450.

The inner hub diameter is 180mm (7.09 inches). It has four round dampers and the brake shoes are labelled ASK1037SR2 FF.

cheers, dj

ps The rear sprocket is a 35 tooth and the front is 16 tooth. Is this OK for a street 550?

later

Godffery · « **Reply #152 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:50:00 PM »

Yes that looks like a CB450 rear hub. (Not something I would use on a 550 for a number of reasons)
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi9qcuXi-PaAhXD44MKHe87CFEQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cmsnl.com%2Fhonda-cb450k5-1972-usa_model453%2Fpartslist%2FF%2B%2B16.html&psig=AOvVaw2u6i0pE3MMD9LYa9A7KyEE&ust=1525215104565973

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #153 on:** April 30, 2018, 03:59:57 PM »

Can you elaborate, Godffery?

Are we talking dangerous reasons? (I made new spacers to centre it and it appears to be in great shape)

Thanks, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #154 on:** May 03, 2018, 03:28:09 PM »

Got to get this thing on the road. Going to go with the 450 rear wheel. From what I can find the 450, 500 and 550 are considered the mid-size Honda wheels and this hub has the same inside diameter as the 550. I have even found suppliers that list shoes and bearings as being interchangeable. Plus, I’ve seen posts on 550 cush drive problems and this hub appears to be a much simpler mechanism that is in great shape, so I’m OK with it.

Anyway I’m making my final parts list to order in the next day or so. I’m thinking of going with 4 into 1 as they seem to have most of the parts I need and from what I can see they can deal with shipping to Canada. (Any Canucks with stories?)

I’ve finally had time to tackle the tank. I’ve been bead blasting the “custom” green paint job and have found a bunch of small dents, but overall it’s in great shape. It still needs more work and I’ll finish it like the other steel parts (bead blasted, brass wire brushed and waxed).

The bike still had gas in the tank and when I drained it, it came out very clean despite the tank having a coating of minor surface rust. The screen doesn’t look bad either, but since I can buy a new aftermarket petcock with filter for less than I can buy the filter for my old one I will just get the new one (lucky it’s a 16mm x 1.5mm as others seem to be more difficult to find).

I still need to finish de-rusting the inside and I plan to use phosphoric acid.

That’s it for now, cheers, dj

Godffery · « **Reply #155 on:** May 04, 2018, 09:29:17 AM »

Sorry it took a while to get back to you on this thread. The primary issue with the 450 hub is the very limited cush drive, in fact, it barely has one at all. (just little rubber inserts for the sprocket mounting pins) The 500/550 hub was vastly improved. (which is much easier on items like; Chain, Sprockets, Transmission, Spokes, Rear Tire, right down to a smoother ride)

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #156 on:** May 10, 2018, 02:02:28 PM »

Hey Godffery thanks for the info. I'll look for another wheel but this will have to do me for now.

Trying to get this thing on the road. I have a package coming from 4into1 that will help get me moving, but in the meantime I'm working on the body parts. Fairing development taking priority now.

Getting the tank done also. Just some samples of finishes using bead blasting, bead basting plus using a soft brass brush, then using red polishing compound with a polishing wheel and finally using green polish.

Take care, dj

BradyN · « **Reply #157 on:** May 11, 2018, 06:24:37 AM »

Bike looks great so far! Are you planning on keeping the tank bare metal?

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #158 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:03:36 AM »

Thanks BradyN for the comment ! I'm leaving everything bare at this time to help get the bike on the road. I've been using this project to experiment with various finishes and forming techniques.

Once the bike is running and all mechanical issues dealt with I may take it all apart and finish the pieces in another way. As for now I'm liking the bare metal with wax finish.

later, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #159 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:06:35 AM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on May 11, 2018, 09:03:36 AM

Thanks BradyN for the comment ! I'm leaving everything bare at this time to help get the bike on the road. I've been using this project to experiment with various finishes and forming techniques.

Once the bike is running and all mechanical issues dealt with I may take it all apart and finish the pieces in another way. As for now I'm liking the bare metal with wax finish.

later, dj

You may want to clear coat the tank. The bottom of the tank is going to be exposed repeatedly to heat from the air-cooled motor, which will likely cause the wax to deteriorate. Just my $0.02!

calj737 · « **Reply #160 on:** May 11, 2018, 09:35:13 AM »

Sure would be nice to knock the dents out too...

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #161 on:** May 11, 2018, 10:23:18 AM »

Hey Fan and Cal, thanks for your input!

Yea I would like to get the dents out and I will look into doing that, and as I've posted before I will probably finish the steel parts at some point. Right now I need the money to get it on the road: make it work then make it pretty (read that somewhere, ha). (Also my diesel has a cracked head and that is where my money is going: new head, timing chain etc, etc it adds up)

For now I will wax them and I also coat all exposed underparts with Krown undercoat. This was developed for high latitude aircraft and is composed of some kind of oil and wax. I use it on my vehicles and it needs to be done every year as it wears off.

Other thing to remember is that this is a Canadian bike that will be inside for most of the year and then used for fair weather trips. I plan to store it carefully, but it is practically a desert here and things don't rust very quick.

However, I want to thank you for your concerns. Take care, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #162 on:** May 19, 2018, 05:15:28 PM »

Made some progress today on the fairing sub structure.

Still needs work (trimming, proper fasteners, a few more detail pieces, etc) and I spent some time making sure things are aligned properly. The big circle ring is just for jigging and I still have to fab up some supports for holding the ends in place.

Next I need to make a big block or hardwood to mill out the form for the flow forming I want to try. And make a windscreen etc, never ends. Good thing it is fun.

cheers, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #163 on:** May 20, 2018, 03:14:39 PM »

Nice work. The support structure looks rather robust.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #164 on:** May 20, 2018, 04:03:09 PM »

Robust, ha I know a euphemism when I see one ; ) Thanks for your encouragement Fan !

Yea, this is the result of making it up on the fly and learning as you go. Overbuild and then test to destruction - usually, but not this time. I am also integrating the mirrors and signal lights into the structure so it needs to be able to handle that and not blow apart on the highway (winds here can be brutal).

It’s also kind of the result of making in a way to help determine a bunch of variables (hand, handlebar clearance, light height, cable routes etc), so it’s a bit more development jig than I final production version. I’ve got the math now so making multiples also becomes a possibility (no intension but nice to have the option).

Take care, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #165 on:** May 20, 2018, 06:12:05 PM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on May 20, 2018, 04:03:09 PM

Robust, ha I know a euphemism when I see one ; ) Thanks for your encouragement Fan !

Yea, this is the result of making it up on the fly and learning as you go. Overbuild and then test to destruction - usually, but not this time. I am also integrating the mirrors and signal lights into the structure so it needs to be able to handle that and not blow apart on the highway (winds here can be brutal).

It’s also kind of the result of making in a way to help determine a bunch of variables (hand, handlebar clearance, light height, cable routes etc), so it’s a bit more development jig than I final production version. I’ve got the math now so making multiples also becomes a possibility (no intension but nice to have the option).

Take care, dj

Overbuilt in a good way. I like the shape, too. What material are you making the actual fairing out of? Carbon fiber would kick ass.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #166 on:** May 20, 2018, 06:38:21 PM »

I'm no good with wet work.

I'm going to try my hand at flow forming thin aluminium.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #167 on:** May 20, 2018, 10:11:15 PM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on May 20, 2018, 06:38:21 PM

I'm no good with wet work.

I'm going to try my hand at flow forming thin aluminium.

Excellent! My buddy has done 2 full fairings in aluminum.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #168 on:** May 21, 2018, 08:26:08 AM »

Cool, Fan, be great to see pics of them!

cheers, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #169 on:** May 21, 2018, 10:07:12 AM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on May 21, 2018, 08:26:08 AM

Cool, Fan, be great to see pics of them!

cheers, dj

In order:

(1) "Una" -- Ducati Monster-based build, with custom aluminum seat, belly pan, fenders, trellis/girder fork covers and front cowl

(2) "Legionnaire" -- Yamaha R6-based build with custom aluminum seat and fairing

(3) "Hollowpoint" -- CB550-based with custom aluminum seat and fairing. This bike was rough finished in about 5 weeks, but features an underslung shock, custom subframe.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #170 on:** May 21, 2018, 10:19:56 AM »

Nice Fan ! That's some great work. Hollowpoint is sort of what I'd like to try one day (a full fairing that is).

Thanks, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #171 on:** May 22, 2018, 02:35:42 PM »

I could use some help with finding the head tube angle for the 78 550K model. I know I found it once as I made a jig to hold the front end off the bike and I used an angle I found somewhere on the web (I thought it was here, but whatever).

Anyway I need to lock down some things for the fairing and need a baseline for setting the headlamp angle.

My plan is to make the plate that the lamp attaches to perpendicular to the line created by the fuel tank (90 degrees). I will then provide some adjustment for vertically aiming the lamp itself (I’m using a lamp ring that has left right adjustment already).

But how much adjustment (degrees from vertical)? Up and down or just some down adjustment?

Is the low beam angled down somewhat already?

If I could find the head tube angle I think that would help me determine how to position the fairing relative to the frame for at least being in the ballpark for a properly aimed headlamp.

Any comments / help appreciated.

Cheers, Darren

calj737 · « **Reply #172 on:** May 22, 2018, 03:59:53 PM »

I think the last time I measured a 500/550 frame, i came up with 65*, or 25* from plumb (whichever way you to measure it).

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #173 on:** May 22, 2018, 07:30:10 PM »

Cool, thanks Cal,

dj

Found some numbers for rake and it's 64*.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #174 on:** May 30, 2018, 10:38:44 PM »

Harbor Freight has a cool magnetic angle finder I have used when doing construction as well as other stuff. It tells me the driveway is an 11 degree slope (...or 79 degrees). It has a magnetic base.

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Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40007 times)