Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40604 times)

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #175 on:** May 31, 2018, 06:51:34 AM »

Great info RAF ! Thanks,

I think I found the position of the fairing (pretty much level with the tank bottom) and there is quite a bit of tilt adjustment that I built in. The lamp bracket will have a few degrees of adjustment also, but in the end I'll prolly aim it when the bike is done and me sitting on it in the prescribed manner I have found on-line.

Close enough to continue. Found some large pieces of fir the other day to make the flow form molds from. Just need to build a solid block and get it milled on the 5 axis cnc router. Take the temper out of the alu and get forming.

Cheers, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #176 on:** June 20, 2018, 01:44:17 PM »

I finally got the wood block together and got it cnc milled for flow forming the fairing blanks. I still need to clean it up a bit and fill some cracks and seal it. I'd like it to last for a few tries.

I essentially divided the bullet shape of the fairing into 4 equal parts and I will make 4 separate panels to form the finished product. I'll roll the aluminium sheet into a rough cone and make some brackets to clamp it in place and then flow form from there.

Anyway, I'm away for a few weeks so it will have to wait until I return.

Take care, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #177 on:** July 11, 2018, 04:57:42 PM »

Making progress but it's slow. Made a few items for cleaning the gas tank. Two stoppers that seal it up pretty good. I want to fill the whole tank up with acid and then flip it over and finish filling through the gas valve hole so that I can get the tank clean right up to the top (the opening is depressed and it would trap some air bubbles).

Other than that I've been bashing aluminium and fixing the forms (steel wool and epoxy and then some JB Weld to finish). I first tried bashing some generic 18 gauge aluminium and then tried again after annealing the blank. Much easier.

I have a line on some 5052 that I will try next. Dam this is no cake walk. Lots of work, but I can see it getting somewhere.

Anyway, that's it for now.

cheers, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #178 on:** July 12, 2018, 04:37:01 PM »

Pretty good learning curve when it comes to this stuff. I've already figured out a few things that should make producing the other 3 panels a little easier.

I couldn't wait to try mounting the first attempt to the subframe. Worked better than I thought it would. I need to make 3 more panels and this one will probably find its way to the bottom quadrant. I hope to progress in my abilities and the other 3 should be of better quality (although there is still much to do to finish this panel and make it look as good as possible). Fingers crossed.

later, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #179 on:** July 12, 2018, 11:18:55 PM »

Close to my Thruxton fairing.

IMG_3393 by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #180 on:** July 13, 2018, 07:52:58 AM »

Nice bike Fan ! Great fairing.

cheers, dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #181 on:** July 24, 2018, 05:08:42 PM »

Making some progress, but still figuring out a bunch of things (like cutouts for the handlebars and forks and how to best trim the aluminium sheet - I need a throatless bench shear I think).

Anyway, first attempts at a windscreen mock up. This is a simple version that curves in only one plane. Might work, but I'll eventually make a form to make a three dimensional domed one out of polycarbonate.

later, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #182 on:** July 25, 2018, 09:03:07 AM »

Darren,

I was looking closer at your fairing subframe. Assuming the circular piece is steel, I think it might be "overengineered." I doubt you are going to race it or building the bike for outright performance, but you might be able to lighten the structure (while maintaining its strength) with aluminum tube and plate. If weight is not a concern, carry on.

For reference, here's some photos of my fairing subframe. It is robust as hell, but also light.

IMG_3387 by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

IMG_3388 by Donald Leonhardt, on Flickr

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #183 on:** July 25, 2018, 01:12:58 PM »

Hey Fan,

Thanks for your interest and comments !

Pretty much everything is aluminum except for the two lower support arms that are made of thin wall tube steel (pretty light). The circular plate in front is aluminum and the big ring is only temporary to hold everything in place. Overall not that heavy, but thanks again for your help.

cheers, dj

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #184 on:** July 25, 2018, 03:55:28 PM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on July 25, 2018, 01:12:58 PM

Pretty much everything is aluminum except for the two lower support arms that are made of thin wall tube steel (pretty light). The circular plate in front is aluminum and the big ring is only temporary to hold everything in place.

Nice!

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #185 on:** October 21, 2018, 01:22:30 PM »

It's been a while since I posted, but I've not made a ton of progress on the bike. An early snowfall (almost 2 feet in my area), replacing the engine in my Outback (dropped in a JDM with 70K on it) and a knee injury has kept me occupied and away from working on the ride.

I did, however, pick up a 1977 CB550K roller for $150.00 CDN pesos. It has some ugly welds where someone attached something to the front of the frame and I wonder if this has weakened the frame or if I can carefully cut this stuff off and grind/sand it back to original condition. I like the idea of having another frame to play around with, but this one is complete and I'm not sure if I want to cut it up. I'd really like an old frame that someone did a #$%* job of modifying and use that as a start.

So, now I have the proper rear hub for my bike (and a bunch of other good parts that would cost a fortune if I bought from the local wreckers). I've pulled it apart and the cush drive rubbers look good but they are pretty hard. Now never having seen cush drive rubbers or felt what how hard/soft they are I've no idea if these are good to go or if I should try some kid of treatment on them (I've read a few posts on this and I'll need to look again).

The bearing retainer had been drilled and some kind of glue/sealer was stuck in there, but I've managed to get it cleaned up enough to work on. I've put it all back together and threw it back on the bike. There is plenty of slop in the cush drive, but I didn't tighten the retainer down that much.

So, what is it that keeps the cush drive/sprocket aligned with the rest of the wheel? There is a rubber seal on the final plate that is worn out but how do I know if this hub is OK or needs something else?

Anyway, I'll finish here, but I still have a bunch of things to figure out before the bike is on the road (like where to get a socket for getting at the two inside spark plugs).

Cheers, dj

calj737 · « **Reply #186 on:** October 21, 2018, 02:06:47 PM »

Looks like some half-arsed highway bar contraption on those front tubes. Yes, you can carefully cut that back, grind it very close to flush, then finish it up carefully with a file to prevent beveling those tubes. Heck, even some 40-60 grit emery by hand as you get close to stock diameter will be fine.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #187 on:** October 21, 2018, 03:18:58 PM »

Cool Cal, I knew you would have an answer

754 · « **Reply #188 on:** October 21, 2018, 10:34:18 PM »

Jeez i forgot you were working on that metal forming .
Try to get 3003 aluminumm not sure how you anneal, but I use the soap trick.. worked goid the few times I used it. I like using my shear forvtrimming alum, had a Metabo but I broke it so I got a great deal on a Hitachi. The princess Auto ones are crap, can't cut a tight radius, and can't trim small slivers off, they jump into the work and ruin it.
Here is a shear pic and the factory plug wrench you need.

754 · « **Reply #189 on:** October 21, 2018, 10:38:44 PM »

I think your forming would be faster if you screwed a flat piece across the female form, about 12 screws or more per side, then start forming, with repeated annealing. It will stretch and thin,
How thick is the material ?

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #190 on:** October 22, 2018, 09:55:43 AM »

Hey 754, thanks for the information !

I'm using a few different gauges and grades of aluminium (around 18 to 22 gauge). I'm trying 5052 right now, but this is really all I can find locally.

I'm doing a bit of annealing using a propane torch and soap, but really I should get a tiger torch. This metal shaping thing is becoming a longer term endeavour, but I have the winter to get it sorted.

Cheers, dj

edit to add: Frank you are right about screwing the sheet down. I've added about 12 hinges to the edges of each side of the form that allow me to clamp it down tight while the hinges allow for different angles along the length. It works well, but I do need to anneal more often as the metal does work harden and becomes difficult to continue forming.

calj737 · « **Reply #191 on:** October 22, 2018, 10:38:49 AM »

5052 does work harden a lot more than other grades. You’d be better with 6000 or as Frank suggested, the 3000 series.

Try this place:
https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/calgary/

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #192 on:** October 22, 2018, 11:15:27 AM »

Thanks Cal, I'll check it out !

cheers, dj

Little_Phil · « **Reply #193 on:** October 23, 2018, 03:45:08 AM »

Quote from: Darren Jakal on October 21, 2018, 01:22:30 PM

So, what is it that keeps the cush drive/sprocket aligned with the rest of the wheel? There is a rubber seal on the final plate that is worn out but how do I know if this hub is OK or needs something else?

It's the fit between the hub and the sprocket holder (item 10). Should be good sliding fit. Grease between the two. There are grooves on the I/d of the holder. Often neglected (because you can only get to it by removing the retainer) and this I/d often wears and allows the carrier to slop about.

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #194 on:** October 23, 2018, 09:50:12 AM »

Hey thanks Phil for that !

dj

754 · « **Reply #195 on:** October 23, 2018, 12:10:06 PM »

You should have no trouble finding 3000 series aluminum if you live near Calgary. Metal Supermarket may be out there . we are getting some soon, wil, let you know what it cost.
Don't make the mistake of using the wrong material, because it's cheap, free or convenient to get.
It can delay getting a good result..

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #196 on:** October 23, 2018, 02:06:58 PM »

Sure thing Frank, thanks.

dj

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #197 on:** October 28, 2018, 01:43:14 PM »

Damn this motorcycle hobby is becoming an addiction. I need to do some strategic planning if I want to get a bike on the road this spring. I saw this 77 CB550K roller on Kijijiji for months before I decided I could not live without it. I’m happy to have all the spare parts that would cost be a lot more if I needed to get them from the local wreckers. And now I see that someone local to me has the head and valve cover (the pinned one) for this roller engine. ARGG this is a hobby and my meager finances are getting spread pretty thin.

I should really be spending my money on the last few pieces I need to get a bike on the road. I need shocks (I’m going to get IKONS), a taillight, a headlight rig, a battery and a few other odds and end. I’ve wanted to make a fairing for the bike, but I’ve now priced a sheet of 3003 aluminum for over $300. I’m doing this low budget and can get 5052 al for next to nothing, so I would almost rather buy a tiger torch to anneal my own stock than drop the dollar on a single sheet that I know will not be enough (I’m bound to have some learning accidents).

Anyway, here are some parts for the inventory of this build thread (an archive I can come back to when I forget all the stuff I have accumulated for this project).

Cheers, dj

754 · « **Reply #198 on:** October 28, 2018, 03:07:24 PM »

They wont sell you a half sheet ? How thick, i think .060 would work.
Or say the longest fairing part is say 32 inch get 33 inch by 4 ft wide cut from full sheet.

Spending 100 bux can be worth it if A it gets done sooner B saves 20 hrs or cussing and wasting time. C you get it done while you can still ride..

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #199 on:** October 28, 2018, 08:33:54 PM »

Hey Frank,

I'll eventually get the fairing done but I'm going to use the roller frame to work it out and put the original bike on the road with a temporary front end. That way I can mess around while still getting a runner going (I'd actually like to try making a racer as I do have an attraction to danger and racing a motorcycle would scratch that itch).

That's the problem with this hobby, I get excited about making things for it and miss out on riding it! I start reading about you guys possibly making race frames and exotic engine work and I'm like "I want to do that". And I would but I only have so much money and I have a lot of other projects that I should get on (like projects for new revenue streams to pay for my future).

So, thanks for the encouragement and I'll keep going with it, but I like having two frames now: one to ride and one to mess around with.

cheers, dj

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Author Topic: Jakal cb550 project (Read 40604 times)