Topic: Apologies (CB550)

[Chappy]

Thought if I named the subject 'apologies' it would save me apologising for every post for the foreseeable future.  First bike, so very much a learning game.

19756 CB550 SuperSport F12

Bought as a project to keep me busy for a while.
Imported from USA. Came with seized engine (not tested) and knackered tank. I also have a spare engine (not seized) and spare tank (minus paint).

Plans are to strip the bike down and replace most of the parts for new, whilst learning in the process. 

[Bankerdanny]

Welsome.

Well, other than the exhaust, which is not a F model (the Super Sport model used a factory 4 into 1) and the seat, it looks like a really clean and complete bike.

Have fun. If the paint on the tank pictured is in generally good shape then hold onto it as a spare or sell it. Tanks with good original paint are getting harder and harder to find.

[Stev-o]

Welcome.  I also have a 550F, great bikes.

Why replace all of the parts for new? Not necessary!

[minimo]

Knackered, really?

Let's see what this becomes!

[Chappy]

Thanks all. I have spent quite some time reading this forum before purchasing the bike and watching countless 'project' videos on YouTube!  I've downloaded most of the manuals to avoid the newbie mistakes and questions (hopefully).

The tank had a deep scratch on the left hand side of it, it looked bad so I poked it today and hey presto a hole appeared!

The seat was a shocker and the 'slash cut' exhaust isn't for me. It was also missing an airbox and ignition.

Fun times.

[Smudgemo]

Looks like a month newer and 3,731 units after mine was built.  The tag indicates 1976 (not that it matters much.)  I'm in a similar situation with a first bike project, except the engine turns over.  Mine is mostly complete and fairly original, but I got orange.

[70CB750]

Welcome, Chappy:)

[Chappy]

The tag indicates 1976 (not that it matters much.)  .

This is where I'm a little confused - top right it's says 4/75 (build date?) whereas the frame no: indicated 76?

Welcome, Chappy:)

Thanks 

Off to pull some bits off.

[calj737]

The tag indicates 1976 (not that it matters much.)  .

This is where I'm a little confused - top right it's says 4/75 (build date?) whereas the frame no: indicated 76?

Compare the vin tag to the stamped frame number on the other side of the frame neck. It looks like the vin tag has been removed and installed on this bike. 

[Chappy]

Compare the vin tag to the stamped frame number on the other side of the frame neck. It looks like the vin tag has been removed and installed on this bike. 

 

[Stev-o]

FYI - the engine number never matches the frame number. 

[Chappy]

FYI - the engine number never matches the frame number.

I read a post saying not to worry about that ^^^ and referred to http://www.sohc4.net/cb550-model-guide/ to identify what mine is. 76 model?

A productive day taking parts off the bike, the tank was full of rust (and now complete with a finger sized hole) I decided to remove the carbs with the view that they too would be in a bad way..

There was fuel in the bowls and gunge and the needles, jets and valves caked in shizzle.  Floats look good and in working order.  The throttle valve slides are jammed so I've sprayed them with wd40 to soak and will have a look at freeing them up as a whole unit and if unsuccessful removing each carb from the rack and doing it individually.

My hands stink 

[flatlander]

76 model?

go by the frame and engine numbers, that's the only thing that matters. and as cal says, check the stamped-in number. with those, you find the correct schematics and parts in the partslist. these also give you the model type (f1 or f2, for example) in the model guide that you refer to. year is an error prone way to look for parts, best to forget it. go by the serial numbers.

[Chappy]

Bought some 'No nonsense Penetrating Oil' from screwfix and sprayed the carbs up whilst I went to a christening.  Upon return tried to ease the sliders up. 1, 3 and 4 stuck. Removed jets etc and got back to the throttle body sliders - Spray>ease>repeat and I managed to free all of the sliders and see the sticky residue left from the bike sitting for however many years. Cleaned them all up good as new, reinstalled and the movement it as it should.

I know this ^^^ sounds like nothing new but every stage will be a learning experience for me. Pretty happy at the mo. 

There is a part (I believe it houses the slow jet float valve) which I'm unsure how to remove. I'll consult the diagram to confirm the name.

[Chappy]

Removed handlebar and controls, will be looking at spraying up control body and switches as they are currently a sun bleached grey.  Also removed the wiring loom/harness and got carried away looking at those Motogadget M-Unit and M-Button combination.  It would certainly make things easier when it comes to hiding all the electrics in the slim seat tray (anyone have any experience of both?)

 

[philgresty]

I have my 550 electrics running through a motogadget, best thing i ever did, no one wants to rebuild a bike and put 35-40 year old electrics back on do they.

[calj737]

Also removed the wiring loom/harness and got carried away looking at those Motogadget M-Unit and M-Button combination.  It would certainly make things easier when it comes to hiding all the electrics in the slim seat tray (anyone have any experience of both?)

Lots. Ditch using an M-Button and just stick with the M-Unit and maybe the M-Switches (or any quality momentary switches). For a super trick install, also use their M-Lock keyless setup.

[Chappy]

Thanks both, I was on YouTube looking at the keyless setup last night with the additional reed key.  Very nice.  I take it the m-swicth is going to be used for the new tacho I will ultimately be buying..

Question: The bikes engine is currently seized, I have removed spark plugs, applied penetrating oil, let soak and rocked bike (repeat).  The secondary engine I have is not seized, I can turn it using the kickstarter (although I don't know if it actually 'runs'). I am at a crossroads.

a: Should I just swap out engines now and get the 2nd one running - before I start chopping tabs and welding in seat hoops etc.
b: Persevere with seized engine.
c: Remove seized engine, detab, weld etc and then install 2nd engine.
d: Other.

[calj737]

C.

The m-switches can be had in 2 or 3 button configs. If you use an electronic tach with a menu screen, the 2x 3 button units are best (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Hi/Lo, START/KILL, Gauge Menu). 6 buttons to do each function, oriented however you'd like them.

Best part of the M-Lock is that a single fob owned by you can be programmed to operate all your bikes. In my garage, we have 4 bikes and each rider has a single fob to operate any of the bikes. Makes it very easy. My wife has her fob sewn into her jacket cuff, son has the "rice kernel" sewn into his glove. I carry a fob on a ring as does son #2. Wave and go!

[Chappy]

C.

The m-switches can be had in 2 or 3 button configs. If you use an electronic tach with a menu screen, the 2x 3 button units are best (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Hi/Lo, START/KILL, Gauge Menu). 6 buttons to do each function, oriented however you'd like them.

Best part of the M-Lock is that a single fob owned by you can be programmed to operate all your bikes. In my garage, we have 4 bikes and each rider has a single fob to operate any of the bikes. Makes it very easy. My wife has her fob sewn into her jacket cuff, son has the "rice kernel" sewn into his glove. I carry a fob on a ring as does son #2. Wave and go!

I'm pretty much sold on this idea ^^^.  I had originally planned to clean up the existing controls to give them a new lease of life but then one thing led to another and I got curious to the reg/rec and M-units in peoples seat trays and ended up reading through both of your threads after a picture of a seat tray led me to your 500 thread, even read the M-Unit user manual that was posted (procrastination at it's best).  I blame the interweb.

[Chappy]

Engine out. Courtesy of a washing up bowl and a skateboard. Drove the original headset bearings out and checked over the triple and forks. Fork stanctions in pretty good shape with slight pitting at the upper part where they were exposed (headlight clamp area). Plus I bought a manual from that well known auction website.

[Chappy]

Big thanks to Ray Davis for issuing a Dating Letter for the bike VJMC £35 and a few photos.

Big step going forward ingetting the DVLA to register it here in the UK when the time comes on a correct age related plate.

On a side note, I cannot find an aftermarket exhaust manufacturer for the a CB550 '76 ANYWHERE! Not even ebay 

[Stev-o]

On a side note, I cannot find an aftermarket exhaust manufacturer for the a CB550 '76 ANYWHERE! Not even ebay 

Reallly?  Took me 30 seconds to find this one. And it's the best, I have one for my K3 750.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB550K-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-4-1-CB500-CB550-SOHC-RACE-YOSHI-TYPE-CAFE-RACER-CB-/122128832311?hash=item1c6f721737:g:zT8AAOSwFV9X1b7Q&vxp=mtr

[calj737]

Reallly?  Took me 30 seconds to find this one. And it's the best, I have one for my K3 750.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB550K-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-4-1-CB500-CB550-SOHC-RACE-YOSHI-TYPE-CAFE-RACER-CB-/122128832311?hash=item1c6f721737:g:zT8AAOSwFV9X1b7Q&vxp=mtr

Pretty sure thats a MGP Werks, Stev-o. And, it may not fit the 550F without some mods to the brake lever. I think GV had an issue with his pedal also...

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

He could also consider the Hindle 4-2-1 (Ripple Rock Racers) or the Delkevic 4-1 on ebay.  The Hindle is a pretty pipe!