It only made sense to replace the front wheel bearings as well.
Did it with a All Balls kit for the front. Awesome price, great product.
I found the original single-sided seal bearings, so the modern bearings are a welcomed upgrade.
Update on oil leaks, I unbolted the valve cover with the engine mounted in the frame to replace the gasket. Let's say, it's not easy, but it can be done.
When I reassembled the engine I used 3-Bond on the upper side of the gasket. I did have it installed correctly, judging by the asymetrical cutout for the cam chain/sprocket. Most of the gasket came off no problem (thank to the 3-bond), but some of it stuck to the valve cover, so cleaning it was a bear.
I used a DK brand gasket from 4into1, with Permatex non-hardening "form a gasket 2" brown stuff on the cyl head side of the gasket.
I noticed some of the valve cover bolts (I changed them to allen/socket head black oxide bolts) were easier to break loose than some of the others. Maybe the bolt material strectched a little after a few warm up cycles? But that shouldn't matter, they are 10.9 grade bolts. (Yes, of course I torqued them the first time)
The only visible problem was pictured below. The right side, where the leak was, looks like the bolt holes became oblong. Either the Hondabond became too tacky during install, and caused the gasket to stick and slide. Or the heat cycles made the gasket slide since the cyl head gets hotter than the valve cover, and the top side was glued to the cover.
