Topic: Tighten spokes before or after mounting tire?

[drumstyx]

I've rebuilt my wheels, and I'm just looking at getting tires so I can actually have a base for my build. The spokes are snugged, but not tightened, as I wanted to mount it on the bike or somewhere I could make sure they stayed true as I tightened them.

So, in addition, is trueness a concern with these rims? Can I use the bike itself as a makeshift truing stand? I've never built spoked wheels before, and while they're laced nicely and correctly, I'm not exactly sure where to go from here...

[grcamna2]

drum,
I would only install the tire when you're sure that all 36 spokes are evenly torqued and the wheels are 'true'/straight-spinning from side-side and very importantly up & down;I wouldn't want you to have to live with an up & down 'hop' in the wheel.I think you might want to borrow a proper 'truing stand' for truing wheels that have adjustable pointers so you can get it as 'true' as possible. Take a break once in a while & have one beer and relax and then get back with it,it'll help. 

Edit: I like to take my time w/ the truing stand and get it as close as I can so I 'know' that it's really 'true'..  call me OCD 

[BomberMann650]

The initial tensioning of the spokes has gotta happen on a builders stand.  As grcamna said.

You arent out of the woods yet, so don't jump the gun.

[drumstyx]

Alright, I cracked and bought a balancing/truing stand. $90 was the cheapest I could find, but that would need a dial gauge and magnetic base. I ended up with a bikemaster stand for ~$180. These things are damned expensive, but I guess cheaper than having a shop do it.

[strynboen]

you dont need all that funky stuff..a old rear svingarm..and a vooden stick can do the job better and just as presise as you can adjust.any spokes and rim
.1-2 milimeters slup is fine..less is better...but 0,01 milimeter as a mikrometer can massure..is total overkill..
i have veldet a base vith bearings to hold the hveel shaft...
that vooden stick can give both horensontal and vertikal indikation

[jonda500]

+1  I totally agree- you don't need a dial gauge or a wheel stand, but I would definitely do it without the tyre on.
John

[przjohn]

I use a dial indicator, it is quicker and more accurate. You don't need a stand but it is nice to have.

[drumstyx]

Well, I've got this bike to build, but I also ride a KLR 650 with spoked wheels, and at least one other CB750 that I could end up rebuilding....might as well get the expenses over with now.

I'm sure I could rig something up, but honestly, I'd probably sooner pay to have it done at the shop out of laziness. At least if I have the rig, I have no excuse.

[evanphi]

You don't need a dial gauge. That'll just make you crazy! I used two pieces of aluminium bore cleaning rod. Nice and straight and stiff, mounted to my balancing stand. You can check for radial and axial runout. Honda spec is 2-3mm, and you can easily get it less than that. I got down to <1mm on my front wheel this winter.

[Steve_K]

After you have trued the wheel, check that none of the spokes are above the nipple.  If so, grind or file down spoke end. There should be no sharp edges and use a rim rubber over the spoke nipples, This could cause your inner tube to leak.
Steve

[grcamna2]

I find it helps also when building a wheel to begin by lightly drawing-up/threading-in all the spokes when you start to have an equal amount of threads showing on each one,as close as possible;this will help very much to have the wheel 'Round' as you check the spinning rim on the tire side(where the tire mounts)and then equally tighten each spoke nipple the same amount of turns all the way around 36(or 40) times to achieve that 'Roundness'.You will have a few isolated 'high spots' (sometimes where they weld the rim together,etc.)but shouldn't have any 'low spots'..,although used rims do from getting dented.
That part of truing can be more difficult to get just right initially when you begin the build;I have also(in the past)gone back and loosened up all the spokes and started over again to be sure that I had all the spoke threads the same equal distance(same amount of threads showing) where it meets the nipples so I would make the finished wheel as 'Round' as can be(makes for a much smoother ride as you roll on the miles)and then after I accomplished that the side-to-side truing was easy and then installing the tire/tube and static balancing for 'the Finishing Touch'