Topic: allen head bolt fork damper

[mikecb550]

Hello.I have just reamed the Allen bolt head at the bottom of my fork and was wondering if an' Easy Out' or drilling the head off the bolt would be the best option? Thanks. Mike.

[disco]

I would not go down the 'Easy Out' path again. I had one break off once & then you've got a real problem!

Drill the bolt & replace. Much safer option.

[DaveBarbier]

I would not go down the 'Easy Out' path again. I had one break off once & then you've got a real problem!

Drill the bolt & replace. Much safer option.

+1

Maybe post a picture of your doings? I'm usually a fan of welding a nut on.

[evanphi]

I would not go down the 'Easy Out' path again. I had one break off once & then you've got a real problem!

Drill the bolt & replace. Much safer option.

+1

Maybe post a picture of your doings? I'm usually a fan of welding a nut on.

Difficult in this location.

Drill it out. They are still available from Honda, as are the crush rings.

[70CB750]

Tray to hammer a slightly bigger allen wrench in.

[Smudgemo]

Make sure the wrench isn't part of the problem - I've had cheap allens round themselves with use.  I've also had some that have a bit of rounding at the end that might be unable to catch the deepest part of the bolt head.  Good luck.

[alacrity]

I have had luck with cheap/crappy torx sockets for this situation a couple times.  The extra sharp fins on the torx head  can Bite nicely.  Find the one just a pinch bigger than the allen that should have worked and pound the bastard straight (!!) in. Then use a powered (air or electric) impact wrench to get it to turn.  Just twisting it with a ratchet will likely make it want to climb because you're human and applying perfect 90 degree rotation to the tool is nigh on impossible.  ALT is use a left hand drill bit... Get it in there a couple mm, then slow down the rotation till it binds, then you can usually speed up the rotation again and it will turn the bolt. IF not, you can remove the drill and use a big vice grips that you whack a couple times to break it loose

[mikecb550]

I drilled the bolt head off with 8mm bit (Please see photo) It worked very well. the tube with damper slid straight out and the remaining bolt unwound by hand. Thanks for the suggestions. The copper washer survived. I was wondering what the  rule is with replacement bolts. Is there a 'mechanical grade steel' for bolts? Or is anything ok? I was just on my way up to the hardware for an Allen head bolt . Thanks. Mike.

[DaveBarbier]

Oh, this is the bolt that you were talking about. Yeah, my suggestion of welding a nut on this one would be...difficult.

Replace or anneal that copper washer. Don't reuse as is.

You can use a regular bolt, doesn't have to be a high strength grade for this one, in my opinion. If it were head bolts, crank bolts or frame bolts or something that would be a different story. 

[alacrity]

I drilled the bolt head off with 8mm bit (Please see photo) It worked very well. the tube with damper slid straight out and the remaining bolt unwound by hand. Thanks for the suggestions. The copper washer survived. I was wondering what the  rule is with replacement bolts. Is there a 'mechanical grade steel' for bolts? Or is anything ok? I was just on my way up to the hardware for an Allen head bolt . Thanks. Mike.

Honda of course has a specific bolt for this purpose and a part number for it. I've used those, with fresh OEM crush washers and guess what? They don't bind up, they don't leak, and they are removable without drama. I've also used standard stainless socket head M8 bolts for this (of the same length with a little clear/unthreaded SHOULDER so the crush washer isn't fighting sharp edged threads).  Had the same result.  OEM part was I think 2x the price of the other.  Ymmv.