Author Topic: 78 GL1000 20 year sleeper! Old Blue. (Read 52523 times)

Don R · « **Reply #150 on:** September 18, 2017, 07:22:33 PM »

I have a 750 K2 with a big bore kit and drag pipes, I'm going to swap out the exhaust and clean her up a little. It has an unstamped replacement frame and is a mongrel, k1 engine and forks the rest is all k2 parts. I've been around this bike since it was almost new. I knew the engine builder.

I also have a K7 with a k6 tank and I'm looking for a suitable seat. It had an F tank and seat but well, you know about F's. These two need to be sold, I'll post here first.

David Silver bought my Brown K1, and garage find k5. The K1 was my best bike yet. Gorgeous. 2013 Honda tiger eye pearl brown with the k2 stripe, black, gold and pearl white. Could have been a BOM contender.

I'm keeping my brothers one owner orange k4, my sandcast and diecast set and this 78 wing. I've been working on the drag bike but spark is intermittent in the ARD mag. It hasn't started yet. Only 3 get plated though. that's 5 keepers. Makes no sense.

I put the stock seat back on the gl and will stick with it.

Don R · « **Reply #151 on:** September 28, 2017, 03:04:37 PM »

The 1500 coils are in, less the ballast resistor. Next up is the dyna ignition. I plan to bag the points plate and ballast resistor and stuff them in the windjammer. Just in case.

Don R · « **Reply #152 on:** September 28, 2017, 07:11:06 PM »

This beast is running at the touch of the start button, recently it's been rununarunna rununarunna rununana before it started. Hopefully it will continue to fire right up. I thought I had to move the left points on the plate to get the right set correct. MMMM, maybe not. I'm at the end of the slot now on the right set, I may re-time it to get more in the center of the slots.

Edit, I did move the left points to get enough travel for the right set, Now the right ones are close to the screw on the end slot. I may re-adjust to center them.

Don R · « **Reply #153 on:** September 29, 2017, 02:24:45 PM »

She starts great, runs like crap. I read through the timing directions and double checked it all. Went through the wiring etc. Pulling out the choke helps so I'm leaning towards thinking it's a fuel pressure problem. It misses above 4k but in only third gear and up. I'm checking the fuel pressure and flow next, If I have the parts on hand I'll mount a gauge so I can ride it and watch.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #154 on:** September 29, 2017, 03:19:13 PM »

Good luck with sorting it out...hopefully not Daichi points...

David Silvers bought it, how did he find out about it...

Sorry we missed nominating it for BOM, slipped my mind when I saw it repainted...sorry

Don R · « **Reply #155 on:** September 29, 2017, 07:18:07 PM »

I took the K1 to Davenport's big swap meet. I looked up and here's David with a clipboard checking things off. I stayed away until he couldn't get the seat latch open, then I took the opportunity to point out all the things I bought from him and he said he'd have to buy it now. He got a garage find k5 too.

No points, it's a brand new Dyna, with 1500 GL coils. I ordered a new fuel pump since the one on it's original and the bike is a keeper. I couldn't see the difference between gravity flow and pumped flow so, decision made. My thought is the timing advance may be hanging up or I messed up with the 1500 3 ohm coils.

The brown K1 was probably the best bike I've re-done and I sold it too soon. I usually like to get to know them a little better before I sell one but the swap meet was happening and I was short on operating capitol. I'm doing a K7 now that may be a clone of it, everyone loved that brown pearl paint. BOM's seem to be mostly won by more modified bikes anyway.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #156 on:** September 30, 2017, 05:06:48 AM »

Don't worry about the BOTM Don, it's more of a popularity contest, so if you've pissed anyone off they have their revenge by voting for the other bike. I can't help you with your running issues, although trying some other coils might be a good start, I threw out a perfectly good OEM fuel pump thinking that was my problem, but it turned out the coils were pooched after doing 100,000 miles in the hot Aussie sun. Like you said, if pulling the choke makes it run better it could well be a fuel issue, but trying another set of coils won't hurt either. Cheers, Terry.

Don R · « **Reply #157 on:** October 02, 2017, 05:03:44 PM »

I took old blue for a ride to the gas station, she was stinking up the world and pumping white smoke out the back. I thought WTF have I done? It had over 100 miles on the odometer and was mostly in town so I looped through the gas station to top it off before limping home. When I removed the gas cap there was a huge whoosh of pressure that came out of the tank. I filled her up and when it started things looked good. I thought OK, so we rode 15 miles with no issue except the little exhaust burble it always has had with these carbs on.
My guess is the tank side check valve in the fuel pump hung open and allowed pressure to flow back. The gas cap apparently doesn't vent pressure. After the ride there wasn't any pressure or vacuum present at the gas cap.

I already ordered a new fuel pump just because it's probably original and the flow looks dismal.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #158 on:** October 04, 2017, 08:50:35 AM »

I had to replace the pump on my '77 while I had it too as it started leaking all over. Fortunately it wasn't hard to do.

Randakk used to sell an electric pump kit, it used the same pump I have on my MG, but it appears that he has discontinued it. Based on my experience with my MG I wouldn't have wanted it on my Wing, it is very noisy.

Don R · « **Reply #159 on:** October 04, 2017, 08:08:33 PM »

Apparently checking fuel flow into a container and pressure testing caused the excessive build-up. The good news is the float valves held it in until they needed to flow fuel.
I still need to go back into the carbs.

Don R · « **Reply #160 on:** October 22, 2017, 09:38:47 PM »

I've been checking into new timing belt tensioners. I can hear a bearing going ssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Popular opinion is it's a belt tensioner. There is a write-up in the naked gold wing page on what other new tensioners can be made to work cheaply or I can buy new OEM ones for $68.41 each.

And of course go through the carbs and make a clear timing cover so I can dynamically check the timing.

Don R · « **Reply #161 on:** October 23, 2017, 08:19:49 PM »

I ordered the tensioner rebuild parts for under $50. It uses new Gates idlers (toyota?) and Dorman wheel studs. I'll post the results after it's done. (not soon)

Don R · « **Reply #162 on:** January 24, 2018, 02:58:44 PM »

I drilled and cut off the old idlers, used the Dorman wheel stud, pulled the splines into the bracket with a washer stack, nut and impact, then tacked welded them on the back. New Toyota cam belt tensioners went on and it's all back together.
The old bearings were dry and the right side was singing pretty good. It sounded like my sisters steel wheeled street skates. They still turned but for how long was anybody's guess. Now in another 40 years someone can bolt on new ones easy lol. I'll write the part numbers inside the belt cover.
If anyone wants the specifics I can post numbers and pictures.

The noise that ruined my summer trip is fixed so can cruise at 80 again. It was a long ride home going 65 up on I 90. If it was going to break it probably would have at whatever speed I was going but being stranded with a broken bike didn't appeal to me much that far away from home.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #163 on:** January 24, 2018, 10:46:40 PM »

Well done Don, have you got any pics of your handiwork? Being an old 'Wang pilot (and a current Subaru owner) I'd like to take a peek!

Don R · « **Reply #164 on:** January 25, 2018, 05:20:15 PM »

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WWqVC7GbPSanluwo2

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP0xYVxlZC40R9oRPbrVuQdMf4VArxSWJBWbcXx

https://photos.app.goo.gl/V256uZWgFMZlLVCc2

Don R · « **Reply #165 on:** January 25, 2018, 05:27:53 PM »

I didn't get many good pics, I intended to but got into the job and kinda forgot. I drilled the swedged in stud from the back side to fit the splines on the Dorman wheel stud, that made the hack saw job easier. Then sanded it flat and put the new wheel stud in from behind, notched the backing plates and bolted her up. I used a lock washer and red locktite on the nut then ran it down with an impact.
The pulley is a bit wider but the covers go on fine. There is a big article in the tips section of the naked Goldwing site. This also works for 1100's I'm not sure about newer bikes .

Here are a few ideas that I pulled mine from

http://www.sdb-e.com/TENSIONER/TENSIONER-REBUILD-JCS.pdf

palepainter · « **Reply #166 on:** January 25, 2018, 06:39:06 PM »

Hi Don. I am in the process of overhauling and maintenance on my GL1000 motor. I am planning the same process. Did you happen to get a photo of the new assembly before you installed new wheel/bearing?

Thanks!!!

Don R · « **Reply #167 on:** January 25, 2018, 10:05:19 PM »

I got in a hurry and didn't get more pics. but this guy did it almost the same way. He messed up the idler part number though. I got the parts from rock auto, Last year I got the belts there too.

My gl1000 has a 3 hole backing plate that goes behind the idler bracket. I believe it stabilizes the bosses that the brackets bolt to. Apparently not all goldwings use it. I ground a semi circle in it for clearance to the back of the stud and only welded the side opposite the bracket.

I measured the smaller dia, of the wheel stud under the splines and drilled the back side to that size first.

https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=64103&p=709938&hilit=idlers#p709938

Don R · « **Reply #168 on:** January 28, 2018, 03:38:16 PM »

It had a cold start miss / chug even after I cleaned the carbs the first time, I tried everything last fall to tune it out, It got a fuel pump, filters, dyna ignition, 1500 coils, wires, multiple adjustments, the problem was still there. Someone here said to try techron FI cleaner so I added a dose to a tank of no alcohol fuel.
It absolutely won't miss now even on a cold start when I open the choke early. I'm sure it's a Goldwing decoy to keep me from pulling the carbs until it's riding season but I'll play along in case something cleared out. I'm going to dump the rest of it in my kz1000. You never know.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #169 on:** January 28, 2018, 09:53:30 PM »

That fuel system cleaner is good stuff Don. On one ride from Melbourne to Canberra on my FJR1300 (with 146,000 miles on the ODO) I let the tank level run down a bit low and it must have picked up some crap, and missed and farted for the last 20 miles. I posted this on the FJR forums and got lots of advice to tear the fuel system apart, replace the injectors, yada yada yada, I thought, "Bugger that" and just threw a bottle of fuel system cleaner in with a fresh tank full of fuel, and it fixed it, instantly. Good stuff!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #170 on:** January 28, 2018, 11:52:06 PM »

I would use Shell fuel almost exclusively and I typically bought mid grade most of the time for a Volvo I had and I would feed it a bottle of Techron once or twice a year and I didn't have FI system problems or any issues with the Bosch Kjetronics mechanical injectors for over 150K miles. I bought a new set of injectors but didn't even install them as they were running great. New injector seals about every 3-5 years and it was good.

Seafoam seems to keep the carbs happy on the bikes I have had after I give them a good clean from the start of ownership.

David

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #171 on:** January 29, 2018, 01:32:39 AM »

That Seafoam is great stuff David, I've owned a 1997 Hyundai Excel since 2002, and due to the pathetic servicing regime of the previous owner (2 oil and filter changes in 60,000 miles) it's had a lifter tick ever since I bought it. Last year I poured half a can of Seafoam into the oil, and within days I noticed that the tick was gone. For a 21 year old Korean grocery getter, it's been a brilliant little car, and it's nice not to hear that ticking after 16 years..........

Don R · « **Reply #172 on:** January 29, 2018, 09:52:14 AM »

I was given a high mile v6 Taurus for a company car a few years ago. It had a mileage computer in the dash and I was keeping track of it. For a while, I was getting material from the shop and began stopping at a Shell station nearby, within two tanks the mileage went up 3 mpg and later when I changed back to brand X fuel it stayed there. I always assumed the Shell fuel had cleaned the injectors.
It was a pretty good car, too bad later I hydroplaned it backwards off of an overpass landing in a thicket. For a couple seconds I did experience weightlessness, the pens and notepads in the car floated in front of me. Later another junkier one got hit while stopped in traffic, the boss called to ask what's going on. I replied, just thinning out the herd boss if you got any more of those junky Taurisus just send them over. The last one I got was a real POS.

Don R · « **Reply #173 on:** January 31, 2018, 09:13:42 AM »

It's 40* and I seriously thought about riding the wing to a dentist appointment. Other than cleaning the oil pump screen I can't think of anything mechanical old blue still needs. And yes I jinxed myself.

I'd love to have some matching blue vetter saddlebag doors with no scratches oh, there's one trim piece on the windjammer that has a gouge I have a couple nice jammers to strip for parts.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #174 on:** January 31, 2018, 02:24:28 PM »

40 doesn't sound too bad Don, I commuted the 20 miles to work each morning in less than 0deg C weather in Canberra on my Yamaha FJR1300 (with aftermarket heated grips and sheepskin seat cover) and it was only scary in one spot under a bridge notorious for black ice. Otherwise very pleasant.

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Author Topic: 78 GL1000 20 year sleeper! Old Blue. (Read 52523 times)