Topic: CB550 - The 1976 brat project (wiring with a M unit)

[calj737]

That G is the stator/alternator (They used G to represent "Generator")

The electric START button on your handlebars runs into the left side START button. From right side START to Solenoid. The thin GR/R wire from your solenoid you will need to run to GROUND now.

What handlebar switches are you using? If you provide me details on handlebars, gauges, key switch etc. I can whip you up a color diagram with the M-Unit to provide you a clearer picture.

[hashvm]

That G is the stator/alternator (They used G to represent "Generator")

The electric START button on your handlebars runs into the left side START button. From right side START to Solenoid. The thin GR/R wire from your solenoid you will need to run to GROUND now.

What handlebar switches are you using? If you provide me details on handlebars, gauges, key switch etc. I can whip you up a color diagram with the M-Unit to provide you a clearer picture.

Cal, thanks for the reply

I'm using reproduction OEM style controls like this one:
http://4into1.com/reproduction-throttle-switch-assembly-35300-341-671-honda-cb550k-cb750k/

I'll also be running a 2.5" gauge like this one:
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/2-5-inch-black-mini-kph-speedometer-with-black-face-indicator-lights-and-tripometer.html

for the key switch I'm just using the old one it came with (looks like OEM)
Thanks again for the help

[calj737]

Any tach?

[hashvm]

Any tach?

nope, just a speedo

[hashvm]

Also for the wire from the solenoid to the starter, what gauge does it have to be? I assume it carry a lot of current.

[calj737]

You should use the stock wire as it does require significant amperage. I believe it's 6AWG equivalent.

[hashvm]

So I made this wiring diagram, does it look okay?



The only thing I'm missing is how to wire the single Reg/Rec unit. Also right by the points where I have the question marks, where is that supposed to go?

sorry I know it's a lot of questions

Thanks again for help

H

[calj737]

Are you planning on running the M-Button?

The open line at th "points/ignition" box, why do you have that? Are you running points or electronic ignition?

You should be running power to the ignition directly from the AUX port. Power to the coils you can run through the KILL switch, but those Emgo switches will probably not enjoy the amperageor long.

The RED lead you have looped from the LOCK port to M-Unit power is wrong. Battery to M-Unit. Key BLACK wire to LOCK.

Have a glimpse at this PDF to tide you over until I finish yours tonight.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,159934.msg1844547.html#msg1844547

[540nova]

Your solenoid is wired wrong. You can't have the battery and starter motor on the same pole. The left pole, currently going to ground, should have a connection to the starter motor. Omit the ground connection.


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[hashvm]

Are you planning on running the M-Button?

The open line at th "points/ignition" box, why do you have that? Are you running points or electronic ignition?

You should be running power to the ignition directly from the AUX port. Power to the coils you can run through the KILL switch, but those Emgo switches will probably not enjoy the amperageor long.

The RED lead you have looped from the LOCK port to M-Unit power is wrong. Battery to M-Unit. Key BLACK wire to LOCK.

Have a glimpse at this PDF to tide you over until I finish yours tonight.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,159934.msg1844547.html#msg1844547

Hey Cal,
- yes I'm running the M button
- I'll be running electronic ignition (Dyna DS1-2)
- So if I don't the kill switch through the coils 12V should I connect it in series after the ignition switch?
- I have the two colors before the lock to represent the key switch (I thought that's where you connect the key)

Thanks for the PDF and thanks for the help!

[hashvm]

Your solenoid is wired wrong. You can't have the battery and starter motor on the same pole. The left pole, currently going to ground, should have a connection to the starter motor. Omit the ground connection.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it, I'll change that

thanks for the help

[calj737]

Ditch the m-button. You'll have relentless issues using it in conjunction with an electronic ignition and those handlebar switches. I know it seems "easier" but honestly, it's much easier and more reliable without it.

Everything on that PDF is relevant to your install, except the Koso gauge wiring. Use AUX to provide "black light power" for your gauges. Also, run AUX to the Dyna.

To integrate your KILL switch:
AUX to Dyna on one branch
AUX to KILL on a separate branch
KILL/RUN to coils (stock BLK/WHT)

So you'll have 12v to coils when RUN is on and KILL interrupts the power to coils.