Topic: CR 750 reinforced cam cover

[madmtnmotors]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Sounds quite reasonable. Doubt you could have inserts welded in for that price. 

What size of external thread you are using? And what glue for threads....

I have not tried this yet, but I am getting close to giving it a go. I have not decided on an external thread size, nor have I decided on the sealer. Maybe red locktite on the threads in the valve cover and some Permatex anaerobic sealer at the top of the threads of the insert? Use a 6mm bolt with a jam nut so you can crank'em down tight, let the loctite set up, then loosen the jam nut and take out the bolt.

The white Permatex thread sealer may work as well, at the top threads of the insert and on the hold down bolts. I have good luck with the Permatex white on the cam tower studs.

[slikwilli420]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Do you have a picture of the inserts you are using?

[turboguzzi]

mmm. am reading you all and considering the difficulties, looks like livefast_dieold idea's is a walk in the park, odd that no one is considering it...

[madmtnmotors]

mmm. am reading you all and considering the difficulties, looks like livefast_dieold idea's is a walk in the park, odd that no one is considering it...

Too stealthy. Hold down bolts sticking up out of the head is old school cool. 

Form and function! 

[PeWe]

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Do you have a picture of the inserts you are using?

Maybe self cutting tapping insert will be easy to use? No expensive tools needed except for a drill and bolt as insert driver.
M8, OD 12x1.5 threads that will get a good grip in the soft alu. Hole 10.7-11.4mm

https://eshop.wuerth.de/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/1401-B1-Site/en_US/-/EUR/ViewCatalog-Browse?CatalogCategoryRef=14016006020201%40WuerthGroup-Wuerth-1401&SelectedFilterAttribut=%5B%7B%22name%22%3A%22Female+thread%22%2C%22value%22%3A%5B%228+mm%22%5D%7D%5D&CatalogCategoryID=gj0KD92ekKAAAAE_k.MMbtVQ

I used a similar one today for M6
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,161884.msg1859277.html#msg1859277

[754]

A thread in could work ..If they are flat underneath, AND there is clearance.........and I dont know if there is ?

I am not understanding the tapping problem, hold the tap tight in drill chuck, undo the belt, turn the chuck by hand with one finger pressure pulling down on the handle.... Not going to bend a 10mm tap..

[PeWe]

Just tap M8 for the M8 stud without insert must work too. Insert to be used when possible IF the threads are damaged. Stud should not be removed anyway. Different with threads frequently tightened and bolts removed.

[MessnerMoto]

mmm. am reading you all and considering the difficulties, looks like livefast_dieold idea's is a walk in the park, odd that no one is considering it...

Yoss this would work if you want to split rocker pivots. I have made loose rocker pivots. So this is not an option for me.

I made them locally .... I have M10x0.75 , and M12x0.75 inserts. Internal standard M6. 1eu per peace

Do you have a picture of the inserts you are using?

Maybe self cutting tapping insert will be easy to use? No expensive tools needed except for a drill and bolt as insert driver.
M8, OD 12x1.5 threads that will get a good grip in the soft alu. Hole 10.7-11.4mm

https://eshop.wuerth.de/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/1401-B1-Site/en_US/-/EUR/ViewCatalog-Browse?CatalogCategoryRef=14016006020201%40WuerthGroup-Wuerth-1401&SelectedFilterAttribut=%5B%7B%22name%22%3A%22Female+thread%22%2C%22value%22%3A%5B%228+mm%22%5D%7D%5D&CatalogCategoryID=gj0KD92ekKAAAAE_k.MMbtVQ

I used a similar one today for M6
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,161884.msg1859277.html#msg1859277

A thread in could work ..If they are flat underneath, AND there is clearance.........and I dont know if there is ?

I am not understanding the tapping problem, hold the tap tight in drill chuck, undo the belt, turn the chuck by hand with one finger pressure pulling down on the handle.... Not going to bend a 10mm tap..

Trust me taping a hole on slope surface and thin material is a big problem. You don't get continues thread in hole because there is a big difference in lowest and highest edge of hole. I ruined one cover. from 10 holes I tried 4 were acceptable...

[754]

If the thread is un even time to weld... If it cant hold a bolt , how can it hold an. Insert..?

[livefast_dieold]

mmm. am reading you all and considering the difficulties, looks like livefast_dieold idea's is a walk in the park, odd that no one is considering it...

Finally some recognition! What's wrong with these guys Yossef?!? :-)

[754]

The bigger stud only holds down the middle, not the outside ends.. The cam cover holds down outside ends.
Back to tapping, and I looked at the CycleX stuff..
Tap selection and rigid holding of tap should work easily. Make sure tap has a lot of threads champhered, and hole is properly champhered, before tapping......not sure what you did that did not work...

[Haybus]

I made the threaded version like Cycle X without issue. Weeped out of 4 locations all weekend during my first race round. The cam cover gets pretty warm, even with the Setrab cooler. I'm guessing warm enough to fail the Loctite on the studs and Hondabond on the inserts. Probably could have done some more to seal them up, but it's too much to worry about when racing. Plus, the two middle back ones don't come out without pulling the motor. I made all the inserts from 6061 so I could weld them if needed, but I don't think that cam cover is ever going back on my motor. Just my 2 cents

Alan

[MessnerMoto]

The bigger stud only holds down the middle, not the outside ends.. The cam cover holds down outside ends.
Back to tapping, and I looked at the CycleX stuff..
Tap selection and rigid holding of tap should work easily. Make sure tap has a lot of threads champhered, and hole is properly champhered, before tapping......not sure what you did that did not work...

Yes I agree with how ends of rocker boxes need to be held

mmm. am reading you all and considering the difficulties, looks like livefast_dieold idea's is a walk in the park, odd that no one is considering it...

Finally some recognition! What's wrong with these guys Yossef?!? :-)

But you are right this is also not a bad solution.

I made the threaded version like Cycle X without issue. Weeped out of 4 locations all weekend during my first race round. The cam cover gets pretty warm, even with the Setrab cooler. I'm guessing warm enough to fail the Loctite on the studs and Hondabond on the inserts. Probably could have done some more to seal them up, but it's too much to worry about when racing. Plus, the two middle back ones don't come out without pulling the motor. I made all the inserts from 6061 so I could weld them if needed, but I don't think that cam cover is ever going back on my motor. Just my 2 cents

Alan

What tap type and size did you use and did you use red Loctite?

[PeWe]

M8 bolt will keep the cam holder better, right? - What about the cam, that one has only down forces and nothing that want to kick the caps?

[Jim F]

mine is working great that I did my self and I think I did one for mike Reick
cut and milled to lenght, tapped for I think 8 mm with locking nuts.
welded out side with TIG and laser welded the inside

[bear]

Craftsman quality as usual Jim.

[Jim F]

Thank you sir

[scottly]

Jim, why did you Tig the outside and laser the inside? I would think your Tig fillets on the outside would have been adequate?

[PeWe]

Fabrication of welded covers?

[Jim F]

I wanted to seal them up completely just in case. If there was
A leak if I didn't weld the underside it would be very hard to
Get the oil out to weld them
I am known for over engineering everything that I do
Which is good and bad.

[MRieck]

I wanted to seal them up completely just in case. If there was
A leak if I didn't weld the underside it would be very hard to
Get the oil out to weld them
I am known for over engineering everything that I do
Which is good and bad.

It's all good Jim.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Now Scottly, if you had a laser you'd do it too. LaserMan leaves no weld behind!

[Jim F]

 

[PeWe]

Laser is good stuff for those who can control it
"may the force be with you"

[scottly]

Sigh, I only have a stone-age TIG to work with.