That button might overflow the server
Serieously: A balanced crank + alternator rotor together with mentioned bottom end restore will give more for the bucks than a new sets of carbs that is easy to hang on later when an opportunity knocks on the door.
I should have invested in that instead of Smoothbores back in early 80's. Problems with the cracking carb boots made me to use the std carbs. Same top speed.
More $$$ invested in hp + torque increase, a good idea to protect with better rods.
Edit: I could not stop thinking about it.
Balanced crank as mentioned here should be the start in all CB750 engine restores. Not only HP +rpm guys. An old engine will probably need a refresh of the crank, new rod bearings etc. anyway.
Bottom restore kit to start with:
- APE "Infra" crank, lightened, balanced. polished journals..... with refreshed std rods + F2 bolts
- Balanced and maybe lightened alternator rotor. Or a balanced later model.
- New rubbers in prmary hub. The 2 needle bearings inside are cheap std bearings....
- All 3 chains with tensioners
- Additional undercut of gears
- New ball bearings if engine has many miles. Std should work 100.000kms, right?
When this is done:
- Doing the cylinder. Refresh gasket surface, Pistons: Std over size/ cheap low CR 836/CR 10 something 836 for hotter cams.
- Old fogotten head must get cut seats, milled gasket surface, blasted outside as well as inside. Maybe some guides and valves. Std K last long. My K6 did despite hard life with min warm-up and bad oils. Before it was tuned.
- Optional port job. Minimum remove the burrs, improve the chambers around the valves.
- Cam like 341. Hotter needs new springs and seriously ported head, right?
- Better carbs after MRieck stage 4 head or similar.
